2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey there I just hooked up an OBDLink to my 24v and noticed some strange boost readings. At idle I’m getting 12.4 and at full throttle about 22.4. Is this the app not reading boost correctly or should I be checking my map and wastegate? It’s an 01 HO

Hey Guys, Finally getting around to setting up my boost / egt and fuel pres / trans temp gauges. Whaddya think guys? what is the best recommended location for the boost sensor? I'll be drilling / tapping 1/8 npt so I'm hoping / wondering if the aluminum intake just before the manifold would suit. Easy to take off without worrying about drill / tap chips getting into the intake. I got all of the other sensor locals down. And yea, I know about drilling/taping the egt probe hole while the engine is running. Done that a few times on previous vehicles. Thanks!

Background: Serviced my truck the other day and did oil change, oil filter, took off the BHAF and hit with air compressor. Went for a drive and noticed a whining sound once the boost started to build (never heard this before). Went back to the house immediately and pulled the BHAF/intake elbow and found rubber behind turbo silencer ring (see picture). I am not 100% sure where it came from. My helpful two year old could have put something in there while it was sitting on the ground, or it could have been a rubber tip that came off the air compressor attachment. Just not sure. Anyway, I ended up taking off all boots before and after intercooler to blow out/chec…

Hey guys , First of all I’d like to say thanks to the community on here. I never knew this forum existed. I’ve only been on here a couple days and I’ve already had great progress troubleshooting some things that I could never figure out. I’m currently trying to figure out what turbo I have. So I can figure out if it’s most likely an exhaust leak or it’s too big and that’s why I have so much lag. Secondly my trans temp is usually always sitting at around 200F. I’ve heard opinions saying that you never want to be above 200. Is there any truth to that? This is at idle after a highway drive, truck can get to 40psi but has a hard time getting to 10 quick…

Hey guys I was having a problem that if i went around 76-80 mph on the freeway with my truck and came to a stop on the off ramp the trans would only down shift to 2nd gear. So last night I put in the Borg Warner drop in replacement and it seemed to work:hyper:. Now for the bad news, when I pulled the pan off the bottom of the pan was full of metal shavings:cry: My rebuild is about 2yrs old and when I had it done I put in the good red clutchs and it seems to shift fine with no slippage so well see what happends I hope she lasts:pray:

I'm getting payed pretty good to build a dump truck. My truck runs prett toasty pulling grades when heavy. Empty wich it is 99% of the time fine. Running smarty on 9 3 3 7x09 smoky doesnt matter where smarty is set.. Was thinking head studs turbo and 3peice bd manifold in one wack. 7x10 injectors later. What gateless turbos are available? I've looked alittle and see delete plates but no turbos built gateless. My turbo hy35 is making a fluttering sound lately that's a new sound. Might be rubbing the wheel. Or should I love with the higer temps and get some .320 injectors to possibly clean up smoke . Would my temps go up I'd bump u…

found this useful vid of what goes on with bad injectors https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSwbGSeQsCo

Is there a differance between the Bosch & Nippondenso alternators as far as the electrical hook ups? I will soon be bench testing the alternator and replacing if needed with a new one. For what I have seen online is that only Nippondenso alternators are available new. All the Bosch alternators are rebuilt units. From what I can tell, I currently have an Bosch alternator (stock) in my truck Any input on this would be helpfull.

Oh Boy the document I was looking for... Quick summary of why IP pump and injections fail in Bosch eyes is the fuel lubricity is too LOW!!!! Here you go gang Bosch did testing on USA fuel and don't even come close to the standards of Europe fuel... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=5

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plu…

Hi Guys, Just came across another Bosch authorized VP44 pump rebuilder - here is the link. http://www3.jasperengines.com/blog/2011/12/02/jasper-remanufactures-vp44-diesel-injection-pumps/ The link shows the actual "diaphragm" that is installed in these pump that fails regularly - so Jasper claim. Anyway, I just thought that this link might be of some interest. Thanks

The bottom of my dip stick looks like someone put a tack weld on the end. I haven’t seen any signs of overheating. Haven’t noticed it before, is there something going on?

Greetings-From Steffen at DTT ...I purchased the Assassin Mechanical Fuel Pump for my '98 24 Valve-I also purchased the Vulcan Double (Filter and H20 Separator)To install along with it. My idea of how to install the Pump etcis as vague as the instructions included with the pump. Which consists of a simple line diagram with little or no descriptions of where different fittings, filters, hoses go...there are not even instructions as to where to put the pump...where the individualbolst may go. Yes-given lengths of time and trial and error I could most likely figure it out, but I have had my truck off the road (A FUll MOTH) waiting for this pump. I already replaced my Inj…

I hope this was the right thing to do... It seemed like too good a deal to pass up. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/342727-2000-02-hts-47re-ultimate-duty-valve-body.html I have other irons in the fire first but will need to eventually upgrade the 47RE.

My e-brake light and abs light came on my dash , the first time they came on after a few miles they turned off, second time they came on they turned off after a few miles again then the third time they came on they stayed . the truck is a 1999 auto 4wd , I'm getting ready to go hit up the test and tune at the trac and I would like to make sure my brakes are good. The brake fluid reservoir is full and I haven't added any . Any recommendations on where to start ?

So I been having trouble with rear brakes (DRUM) real sensitive you just touch and you can feel them grab, rain, gravel road you got to baby them. Its like the pedal is right there at the top supplying rear brakes before the front disc. Well I installed new injectors and noticed oil leak under boost. Can this be the cause of rear brakes being so touchy?

Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor.I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads.So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.

This may be a dumb question, but I want to rebuild my calipers and am hung up on how to get the pistons out of the caliper. Do you just pull the o-rings and then pop the pistons out?

I hate the break controller in the 2001 3500 I bought and I want to change it out. My question is does the Dodge have a plug like comes with some controllers, or do you have to hard wire it in. Next question, How do you go about taking the lower dash panels off? Thanks In advance Earl

I'm having some brake issues that I would like to get figured out. I believe I already know the answer but I would like some advice. My brake pedal is starting to take a longer then usual time to return. About every other brake, the pedal is just slow to return, I can manually take my foot and pull it back up and it will release the brakes. My vacuum pump was leaking oil, so I bought the seal kit to change it out. While I was in there, I decided to change the power steering pump. The install went great, everything working fine. Then the power steering pump developed a leak at the bottom pressure line that I didn't notice and it ran all the oil out of the pump. After I…