2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Is there a torque sequence and value for putting the auto tranny pan back on after servicing? Thanks.

Comments on various Dodge/Cummins web-pages were all over the place when the subject of differential oils comes up. Anything from 75w-90 to 80w-140 were suggested for the Dana 80 regardless of Dodge's recommendations. Then I found this study which looks like it was at least sponsored by if not conducted by Amsoil: http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/brochures/g2457_gearlube_study.pdf If you scroll down on the chart to page 19 you'll see who the winner was (spoiler alert...it's Amsoil). I've always stuck to an 80w-90 except when we were full time RV'ing. Looking at that chart I'm wondering if a 75w-90 full synthetic wouldn't work just as well if not better. Anyone?

Hi everybody, my first question on Mopar1973Man. I have a stock 2001 Dodge 24v . In Jan.2012 had a lift pump failure & cooked VP44. Replaced with rebuilt VP44,and a Air Dog 150. About a month ago started to have a problem with hot starts, would start and stall. I only had the idiot light for the fuel pressure warning, never came on. Problem continued to get worse. Bought a real fuel pressure gauge and discovered I had 13lbs. at idle and would drop below 10 lbs. any thing above idle, replaced filters, both were only a month old, no change. So I put the 17lb spring into the Air Dog that came with the pump. Now I get 15lb at idle , and the pressure drops to 13lb anyt…

Just wanting to get some ideas on how hot to run the truck towing up hill. I pull about 8K and when I start climbing the EGT goes up past 1100 and I get worried. So I find that if I back off the throttle just ever so slightly I don’t lose that much speed, but I can keep the EGT from climbing above that. If it starts to go higher, I grab a gear and try to keep it at 1100, and always below 1200 or below. My buddy with his new Dodge just puts the throttle to the floor, rolls a bunch of coal, and blasts over the hill. He gives me a bunch of crap for being so slow, which I am really not. I tow at 2100 RPM’s which is about 73 MPH, and hardly ever drop below 60 going up a lo…

hey guys i dont no if you all remember my post bout my 2002 24 valve with the weird miss in it but just thought i would let you all no what was wrong with it. ok so the truck ended up blowing out the head gasket between 5 and 6 and on top of that the aftermarket head gasket i put on the truck not even 11,000 miles ago took number 5 piston out with it so in short the motor gets a over haul at just 154,289. thanks for everybodys help.

So I was all set to give my girl a little more pep, and hopefully gain a few MPG's. My plan was to go with the rv275's but poking around here I saw a post from someone who got 60-75 hp injectors as an upgrade to a stock truck over the rv275's. My truck is bone stock, with an Air Dog 165 and new vp44 recently added. I seriously doubt I will ever put a tuner on the truck, so which injectors should I go with? She's got 330k on the clock and I'm afraid to do "too much" in fear of tearing something else up. Should I stick the original plan and get the rv275's or something a little larger?

I would like to add the fuel filter as try keep debris away from raptor pump(raptor 100) but I has research and not see what is correct way for me to get a part kit to do on my 2002 dodge ram 3500 cummins as 2wd dually. Also I had noticed the my raptor 100 would not increase te pressure even I did changed the fuel filter at stock canister that did increased from 15psi to 21 but now it went back to 14psi after few weeks driving. I had not get chance to pop the line off at raptor 100 to see at screen to see if plugging up? I had put my cummins into my garage and stay inside for few weeks as had not get time to look at it. Also do I should just upgrade for two filters with…

I rebuilt by '01 24 valve truck and ran fine for a day. After driving about 5 miles to the store it started leaking on the passenger side at the oil cooler. Is there a particular trick to putting those on? Also another possibility is the AC bracket. When I put that on I didn't realize a gasket went in the block. I got that gasket and ordered the oil cooler gaskets to put in tomorrow. I'd appreciate any advice or insight on that.

So after reading more about high idle, and 3 cylinder high idle, I kinda got to thinking about what is best for the 53 block.I always let it warm up to operating temp before driving, and if I have to just cruise around the pasture, I'll let it run for a minute, and then I'll start to drive. (1st and 2nd gear, not getting above 1,300-1,400 RPM) If I'm in a hurry, I'll let the temp get to 140*, and then go easy on it.Here in SE Texas, I'll probably never start the truck below 20*F, so what is the best warm up procedure in those temps? Is a rapid warm up better for a 53 block? I know if it idles too long without the coolant temp rising, there can be some damage, but I don't …

So, I know that these trucks were not designed to just be making trips to the supermarket & back home every day, but I have a truck that basically has just been used as a daily driver all its life. The truck got used once to tow a trailer from Oregon to Alabama & that was the most work it has seen in its entire life.....Basically, right now, I am using the truck to drive back and forth to work every day.....The problem is that I live so close to my shop that most of the time the truck never even gets up to normal operating temperature from the time that its started till it is shut down.What I'm wondering is if this is bad for the engine over time to not get it up…

Hey Guys, Finally getting around to setting up my boost / egt and fuel pres / trans temp gauges. Whaddya think guys? what is the best recommended location for the boost sensor? I'll be drilling / tapping 1/8 npt so I'm hoping / wondering if the aluminum intake just before the manifold would suit. Easy to take off without worrying about drill / tap chips getting into the intake. I got all of the other sensor locals down. And yea, I know about drilling/taping the egt probe hole while the engine is running. Done that a few times on previous vehicles. Thanks!

Hello all. So thew truck runs pretty good but I know it's not at it'd potential. I want it to not smoke as much and tune it properly so if I'm driving nicely I can get good mpg but then have power when wanted or needed. Just bought it about 3 weeks ago. Here are the upgrades: stock turbo compounded with a bw s366 225 DAP injectors Hot Rod VP44 Air Dog 200 110# valve springs .93 fuel connecting tubes 5inch turbo back exhaust Quadzilla 4k Any and all suggestions are welcomed. At WOT this thing makes an insane amount of smoke even when its making boost. I don't think it makes enough boost though as …

Alright, so I just put a set of DAP 7x10 SAC injectors in my 2001. It is a pretty stock truck IMO. Any advice on tuning? I’m trying to cut down on the smoke and avoid having to put around at next to no throttle. Truck is a 6 speed, only mods are raptor lift pump, BHAF, 4” straight exhaust, the injectors, and a quadzilla with iQuad. If I give it more than est. 15-20% throttle, it smokes like crazy. I think I can tune most of that out, and hopefully get some more power out of it. EGTs are below 750 cruising and the stock HX seems to be doing its job. Any help on where to start would be much appreciated.

A question for all.I have recently heard of a potential problem on the older 5.9, 's that I am sure most of you know about, but it was news to me. There is a dowel pin under the front cover that can work out and tear up the gears in the fron of the motor? And I understand the easy fix, I quess my question is, Is this still a potential problem on the 2nd gen 24 valve motor? or has it been adderessed by Cummins? Thanks in advance for "clearing the air"

Like the title says. I noticed this coolant right below the exhaust manifold. Any ideas if it could be a Head gaskets issue? Just changed the oil and it's not milky. The coolant still looks good.

Just spent the afternoon installing most of the Edge w/Attitude on my 2002 Dodge.Most of it was pretty easy but getting to some of the sensor plugs was not real easy, and one of them was hidden under the LP pump.I did not hook up the sensors for the VP-44, transmission temp and EGT. Ran out of time to drill the exhaust manifold for the EGT and will do it later. I have a 6 speed manual tranny so not real worried about the transmission temps. As well I never tow anything (yet) so feel that the temps are fine. As for the VP-44 wire, want to drive it in the #1 setting for a while and see how it does. As I do not tow am not looking for lots more power and the wire to the VP is…

I don’t have voltage at C3 Pin25 on the pcm so there’s no charging or O/D. How does the pcm know to provide voltage to that pin? Does it use the engine speed signal at C1 Pin 8? If I check it and have the correct frequency and voltage but still no voltage at the blue wire can I use an ignition hot on that to make things work correctly? Will I still have the modulating ground signal on the gen field wire if there’s no 12v on the blue? If I use an ignition hot to power the trans relay will the pcm still activate the o/d solenoid?

Ok so since I'm on my second ISSPRO gauge in this truck, I've been paying extra attention to it and the FASS. Well I've noticed a couple things and just wanted to clear the air. I don't think anything a wrong but just wanted to get some extra input before I moved on to worrying about the next thing. Currently have less then 1/4 tank so keep that in mind... If/when I bump the starter, the FASS will run/prime but I don't see any fuel pressure build on my gauge. Once I finally start it takes 5+ seconds before it shows any readings which end up between 16-18 at any given point. - Anything to worry about here? While driving I noticed r…

I used to monitor the fuel pressure with an Dakota Digital electric gauge. After 8 years of service the ULSD ate the pressure sender so I replaced the gauge with an ISSPRO mechanical and isolator. Same arrangement just different gauge. Its been on there for about 2 years now but even though it reads quite accurately, it does something odd. At idle the gauge needle is solid around 20 psi and when cruising along down the freeway the gauge is solid at around 18 psi. Then all of a sudden the needle will "bob" down a couple psi and quickly return. Its a more fluid action as this is a mechanical gauge but is also very random and kinda hard to watch for too. But.....if I'…

Anyone have an aftermarket supplier of the lines that connect to the side of the HE (coolant lines/metal tubes)? I am going to keep the HE in place but want to replace these lines as they are 21 years old and starting to leak. Ideas? Bruce