2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My Son replaced the D70 in his 99 week before last with a limited slip unit he found at a local salvage.. He and his buddy were having trouble getting the Ujoint cap bolts tight so they opted to swap the yoke off his old axle:think:To make a long story short.. he now has a leaking pinion seal.Does the Dana have a crush sleeve on the pinion like a GM?? If so, any recomendations on how to torque the yoke back without changing the pinion depth??

Hi All, I recently purchased a 4WD 2500 24v 5.9 with 115K miles. No problems at all for the first 800 miles. Twice since then, the engine has stumbled. Cruising at about 35mph, fully warmed up, with about half a tank of fuel, it just fell on its face for about a half a second, and then picked itself up like nothing ever happened. Any thoughts? I drained some clean fuel from the fuel/water separater, no water. There was a wire dangling that I re-connected to the filter housing. I think it was for the water in fuel sensor. That was about 100 miles ago. Today, the ABS and BRAKE lights come on and stay on. Gauges all look normal, and the brakes seem to work fine. Pro…

Well i think my VP just bit the dust, truck was running just fine i left it running went in a store came out 10 mins later truck wasn't running, It cranked right up idled fine but when i gave it throttle it was not having it exhaust was gurggly and sputtered alot, so i limped it home about 10 miles going maybe 20-30MPH it would clear for maybe 3-5 secs at a time then cut back out. I got codes P1693, P1689, P1688,P0252,P0251,P0232 which = VP44 bad. I checked my fuel filter housing and it was full of fuel and it is still getting plenty of fuel so the Lift pump is good as far as i can tell, is it possible for it still work and the VP be crap? I also cracked the 1s…

I'm wanting to hook up my fuel pressure gauge....finally. I have a FASS installed, with the supply line going directly to the VP, so the factory fuel filter can is gone. I do have a T-fitting I could use by cutting the hose (don't really want to do that), but I had hoped I could use fittings of some sort to plumb into one of the fittings on the injection pump......is that possible? And if so, does anyone know which fittings I'd need?

A little back story- i bought The truck with a bad lift pump I changed the lift pump to a raptor 150. When I went and had everything bolted up in the original location for the raptor and plugged it in and went to prime my truck I realize that the driver for the lift pump through the ECM was bad I was getting no power to my lift pump so I hardwired it to an ignition source . I knew in the back of my mind the VP was going to be close behind I anticipated the job. About 2 Months ago when the weather started getting warmer once my truck was hot it was having trouble starting it would take a few seconds to crank and then finally start so I ordered a new pump and put i…

I was lurking around the interwebs this evening and found a guy selling a used 47re out of a 99 2500 with the V10. He claims it was rebuilt 3000 miles ago and with a torque converter and valve body swap would bolt up to the 24v, can anyone confirm that? I'm looking at have some transmission upgrades done in the coming year and can't really afford to have my truck sit for days on end while a shop does the work. So I was thinking about buying a used 47re and having it built then swap it out with whats in the truck now.

I had someone ask me to make a simplified version of Mike's high idle switches schematic. I know they can be a little confusing for those who don't do much electrical so I tried to make it as easy as possible. This first picture shows how the switch works. It is very important to understand this first, by understanding it, you will know how all the rest has to work. All of the drawings of the switches are always in the same direction, so they all directly relate to the top of the picture. This switch works by having 2 central contacts that close with the top or bottom contact. Sorry about drawing it on paper, I know it's kinda cheap but paint wasn't …

ANYONE KNOW THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE VALVE COVER BOLTS ON 2nd GEN 24 VALVETHANKS!!

it have to really shorten a story here. pulled my rv for the first time in a while. pulled it over the bluridge mountains at 22,700 total. notice on filllup that i had oil on the rv and the under carridge of the truck. check my oil and i have an extra quart in the crank case. figure i have a leaky injector or 2. been wanting some rv 275's for a while and ordered a set from DAP. GREAT PRICE AT $269 + $100 core. drove to my daughters house to install and sprung a coolant leak just before arriving. spent the day installing the rv's and then dealt with the coolant leak. from the best i could tell it was coming from the water pump. could not see it well enough to tell for sur…

Everyone says they’re had to be a companion code but they’re is none when scanning with my OBDLink. I installed new stock injectors but my truck still doesn’t run like other 24 valves. Other ones idle smoother and the engine sounds different. I’m really bewildered and I want my truck to run like a true 24 valve should. Valves have been adjusted as well. Where should I go next?

Recently bought a 7 owner 2001 2500 for a overland camper project. It has a lift but I have no idea how big. From the center of the hubs to the bottom of the fender measures 26” front 28” rear (I think this is the scientific way to measure) Any idea what size life she has? Appreciate it!

My transmission has lived ALOT longer than it should under my foot with the comp on and up. I drove it heavily on 5X5 for several years before learning the possible weakness of the tranny . I did buy it used and the comp was on it when i bought it but that was all for mods when purchased. just wondering if there is any way i can find out if there was any performance upgrades done without me having to tear it apart completely? i did pull the dust cover which didnt tell me squat and the torque converter does engage in third regardless if the OD is on or not....6 changes in rpm speed through 4 gears (TC engage in 3rd, unlock, shift to OD, reengage). i just h ope somebod…

I've been learning a ton of information thanks to this forum. Here's where I'm at. Loss of power much more frequently as of last few days. Originally key trick gave me P1693 and p2016. I've had this truck about 7 months now. Replaced lift pump with a fass ddrp soon after I got it as a precaution due to advice by a friend about lift pump failures. Hadn't even checked for codes at that point. Since then I wish I would have upgraded a bit more and relocated it. Still in stock location as of now. Anyhow I had started to notice a brief bit of white smoke on startup and truck has no power at times. Always starts right away. I have checked fuel pressure and have 17 psi idle and …

I was looking at one of these: http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/divid/78/Pickup.Trucks and wondering if anyone here is using one and what their experiences have been with it? Thanks!

So i unplugged it and now I have temp gauge again now I need to clear the codes. I think there is something wrong with the switch.

Just got home from my 250 mile round trip out into the hill country of Ne, and brought home some cows. Believe me, This has been bugging the hell out of me. First of all, I decided to call on the big gun. My Dad was an mechanical engineer, and I had quite an upbringing as a kid. a lot of principles were hammered home.. Almost Nazi style. Now, 45 years later, some of these principles are a little hard to bring out of the archives! My career path took me out of the loop for studying and practicing the sciences. Dad passed about 10 years ago, I sure miss being able to call him up and quiz him about how to build this, or what materials to use here.. So, I did the ne…

Alright guys, I replaced my lift pump a couple of weeks ago with an Air Dog 100, installed the draw straw V, and big line kit. Everything was going well and I had 16.5 PSI at idle, 13.5 at wide open throttle, consistantly. This evening I was running just below a 1/4 tank and stopped and filled up. Started the truck and had 16.5 psi. I drove 24 miles home and watched the fuel pressure drop slowly to 5 psi by the time I got home. The truck is running fine, and I see no fuel leaks under the truck. My first thought is "bad fuel" and the filters are clogging. I have an extra set of filters for the Air Dog and the factory filter which I plumbed in with the Air Dog. My fi…

so i have this app called "geek" and it has mostly chinese stuff but a lot of it is good quality nicnac stuff.. i did find a borescope for about $8 that plugs into usb and works like a champ lights and all. then i searched for a 5.5mm borescope and they have them (size we need to get into the cylinder through injector hole). So i figured id let the community know of where to get a fairly good working borescope for engine inspection for cheap!!! i w et agead and purchased the one in the pic and will do a write up on it. Mike if its possible to make this a global post so everyone sees it and can use the info please do!

So its been happening more often now. I've counted a few times this week now. Hot or cold it happens. Is it the starter contacts or something worse?If its the contacts where do I get them? I've got a cummins parts dealer a block away!

My fuel system is laying on my carport floor right now. Before I re-install it I was wondering if there was anything else I might want to upgrade to make it better. Playing around on internet found a posting about cooling the VP with fans or fuel coolers. Mostly 3 or 4 people posting between 2005-2014. Seams like good idea in theory. But if idea is really good I would think there would be kits available or more info about them. I read somewhere (Blue chip diesel I think) that the most heat the VP is exposed to is the first 20 min after shutting off motor thru heat transfer. Any ideas about lowering temps in VP? Anybody have a ideas about cooling your…