2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

After finishing up my rear end and steering rebuild this last week, I took a grinder and sawzall to my exhaust. I found it very interesting that it changed the tone quite a bit. I've done this in the past on gas vehicles that had an annoying high pitch or too sharp of an exhaust note. It seems to work. Anybody else do this? 3rd gen factory exhaust has a near 45 degree cut, and I don't recall what the OEM 2nd gen exhaust looked like. I didn't do a before and after, but I think that the truck is overall quieter, but has a better low frequency rumble than it did before.

Driving home from work engine the tone changed and my max speed was 60 mph so checked for codes no codes, I disconnected the TS MVP no change, I check fuel pressure seemed normal to me bump key 17psi, running 15psi, mash the pedal to the floor 10psi, my fass pump is 12 years old. Truck is smoking white smoke. I'm thinking it the VP44 it have been in for 10yrs and 200,000 miles. It did this the first time the VP44 died, except it would only idle no matter what position the gas pedal was in. I'm thinking it's the VP44 again just wanted a second a pinion. I plan on replacing the VP and the fass pump. Thanks

Just changed my fuel filter, it was black, can't remember the last time I changed it. Fuel pressure was dropping with acceleration and boost wouldn't go much above 25psi, which it shouldn't with the fuel boss. Black granulars in the stock filter housing. Truck sits all winter and doesn't get used a whole lot in the summer, so I'm guessing there's algae. Anyone experience this? What's the best product to run? Bio Kleen? I'm going to change the filter again in a week or so and see what it looks like.

I've been leaking oil from the drivers side of the motor and my fear was the tappet cover which I just replace..... But turns out the oil is coming from a port in the block just below the motor mount. (see picture). My question.... Is this threaded? or was there a plug or something in the hole that maybe blow out? And how do I keep this from happening again?

Quick question - for those who followed my mini-saga of my truck not starting this weekend. My common sense tells me it was the extreme cold here in Flagstaff that caused my truck to die on the road requiring a full system bleed to get her going again. But, I keep reading about the 1/4 tank issue and want to rule out the possibility that it died from fuel starvation. When the truck died on Friday morning, it had just over a 1/4 tank according to gauge, and my SGII told me I still had 109 miles left before empty (the SGII has been very accurate, and I have had problems with fuel level gauge past couple weeks). My question is what exactly is the 1/4 tank issue, and in spite…

Got a goulds kit and going to tackle the pump seal issue. Got the video and i know how to do it. The problem is none of the videos or anything tell me the best way to actually remove the pump and PS unit from the truck. I know to do it as one unit, but you guys that have done it, which way did you go? Out the bottom or top?

Hi all, so , recently had my fuel pump go belly up and decided to upgrade to an airdog, I know there were a couple options and I was planning on possibly adding power down the road so my research pointed me to the airdog 150. I call the airdog tech support and he recommends the $200 factory replacement with lifetime warranty, I'm game and get it ordered, only while I'm waiting for it to show up I find it's only got a 4yr warranty, and technically isn't a 150, I call the guy back and he admits he made a mistake, what would I like to do he asks? Well, what's my next option with the lifetime? Him; the 4g 150 and you use your stock filter and still don't have to remove g…

Hey all, I have a couple questions about shifting. My truck (maybe most vehicles? I've experienced this with other manual vehicles), is hard to get into 2nd when I'm rolling too fast, about 10-15 mph. Too fast to get into 2nd, too slow to use 3rd. Anyway, I recently finally discovered that if I bring the RPMs up, it will go in, not as nicely as normal, but a lot easier. Maybe I just need the RPMs higher still? Is this normal? Normal for a trans with 260k anyway lol. Also, when shifting, I have always gently released the skinny pedal while gently pressing in the clutch to avoid letting off the throttle too abruptly, and avoid the jolt you get if you press the clutch a…

Here is the deal. Saturday I flipped up the drain valve for the fuel filter canister to drain the fuel out. I unscrewed the lid for the fuel filter, pulled the old one out. Snapped the new one into place and made sure the new gasket was seated. Fuel filter canister looked clean so I installed the new filter. Pushed the drain valve back down. turned the key to on and I could hear the lift pump working to fill the filter canister back up. Repeated this two more times. Started the truck and it ran good for a couple seconds then died. I then repeated the same process with turning the key thinking it still did not have enough fuel in the filter housing. Cranked it three times …

Hey guys, this is my first post but I have read a lot on this forum and have found help several times here. My issue now seems to be something in the electrical system causing some weird torque converter symptoms. First off, I have a 1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 24 valve with 177,000 miles and a 47re that has been built with a BD Stage 3 kit along with a single disk billet converter that has roughly 22,000 miles on it. It has ran flawlessly up until about a week ago. My issue is very consistent. I can take off with normal throttle from a stop and the transmission will shift perfectly 1st through 4th gear and the torque converter will lock perfectly at around the 45 MPH mark (not…

OK, so I feel dumb even asking this question.. but I'm looking at the front of my engine and don't see a hose, bottle, vent or anything like it. What I think I'm looking at is just a smooth timing cover. D oes that make sense? I crawled under the truck and see what looks to be the vent/blow-by hose but it runs back up into the side of the block above the stock LP location. So, am I really dumb enough to be missing it somehow??

As some of you here know I have had a over cooling condition in my truck for quite a while. It seems to be getting worse. No matter what tstat i am using now the temp is hard pressed to get over 175 and will drop to 155 but seems to stay just below 170 most of the time. This is in 70 weather, in town or high way and with 2 of my winter fronts in place. I am on my 7th tstat with the same results. I even sent one of them to Mike and it runs fine for him. After 6 190* tstats and one cummins 180* tstat with almost the same results with them all I am at my wits end. I have also replaced the temp sender twice and no differance. I am wondering has anyone else here had this probl…

Has anyone heard of Rotomaster turbo rebuild kits. Rock Auto sells them for about $35. Thinking of trying one mine is starting to get a little oil past the seals.

Hi All I have searched high and low and didnt seem to find anyone with similar issue. Just bought a 2002 6 speed with an edge juice and fass ddrp lift pump rebuilt VP at some point. The issue is sitting overnight it looses prime between vp and injectors. Parked nose downhill so front bumper was a good 2 feet lower than rear. Same thing only low pressure fuel to #4. After muchhhh cranking dribbles at 1 and 3. It will eventually fire up like nothing happened no smoke. pulls hard on road absolutely no drive ability issues fp 13 at cruise on level 3 and 17-18psi idle. Tried unplugging lift pump to test for bad diaphragm and it still didn't start. Sits for 2-3 …

At 5:30ish this morning some creep stole my Dodge. They hit the ditch up the road from my house in another stolen car and walked here and took my truck. I even had it plugged in for them. I missed them by just a few minutes. Went looking but no luck.....I don't know what to do.....Cops are looking, but I know how these situations turn out.

Hi folks, I have a 1998.5 24 valve Cummins 2500 RAM. I have inspected the diff covers and their respective tags. I think I have Dana 60 front and rear diffs. I am not 100% sure though. Front diff cover reads Dana 43600 3 007 Rev Q. 05 30 94. The front diff tag reads 52070148 610719 1 3.54 Yet in my 1998 Factory service manual the axle options are: 216 And 248 RBI Axles (is this 1500 half ton?) 248 and 267 RBI Axles (is this 2500 3/4 ton) 286 RBI Axle. (s this posi-locking rear type?) 9 1/4" Rear axle. (is this 3500 1 Ton size?) How can I determine which ones I have? My guesses are in brackets. Thanks, Keith

I know this question has been asked in the past but I couldn't find the info. I have a 1999 Dodge Ram Cummins 2500 5 speed and to engage gears the pedal has to be pressed into the floorboard carpet. I have tried to sell this truck without any takers. There is over $10,000 in parts and labor above the price I paid for it. I have about $4K and my brother when he owned it put another $6k in it. Some of the costs in parts was not needed at all, Turbo rebuilt by Mid-West Turbo when nothing was wrong with it, Fluidamper added, Hi-Torque starter, Ceramic disc brakes and so on when good stock parts are more than good enough for a 20 year old ride. My brother is not a diesel mecha…

I recently purchased a used transmission which worked fine when he pulled it out to convert the truck to a 5 speed. After getting it installed in my truck and getting the fluid level correct and everything adjusted properly, I think, I have no overdrive and no TCC lockup. The TCC will lock when I flip on my mystery switch but not under normal driving with the switch off. After driving the truck for approximately 20 miles I had a couple of pretty steep hills to go up on a side street in town. The trans seemed like it was slipping the entire way up both hills. While climbing a longer hill on a backroad I started up the hill and everything seemed fine and I noticed the engin…

Hi, I want install Isspro pyrometer gauge. Lots of well meant advise on YouTube etc., with some contradiction. Questions I have concerning probe placement are: 1) Which is it, the left or right side of the collector, and where? Halfway up, the middle, or top. 2) Do I Drill and Tap in place, or remove Turbo first. Despite the Dollar Store magnet cleanings I’ve watched, doing it in place has me looking up the cost of a replacement Turbo. Of course, removing the Turbo first will have its own challenges given age of fasteners. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks Leaky

I’ve had an oil leak ever since I got this truck but have been fixing other stuff first and have got to the oil leak... so now, I’ve pressure washes and cleaned the the undercarriage real good and this is what I’ve found... my question is what is this? (See pic) thx in advance for y’alls help!!!