2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am thinking about picking up some injectors. Anyone have experience with DAP Aftermarket injectors? Here's what I'm looking at. Obviously I'm looking for a lower cost Injectors, I have stock now. I'm running a 150gph pump, turbo upgrade is after the injectors. Set of 6 Diesel Auto Power 125HP Aftermarket Performance Injectors for Dodge 24 valve Cummins. 7 hole (0.0095 inch holes) SAC style. Compatible for years 1998.5-2002. Installation kit included: (Injector connecting tube removal tool/nut, copper sealing washers, and o-rings for connector tube). new copper washers

I've mentioned this in few of my replies but now it's getting worse. It actually stumbled for a bit today when it blew some smoke out. It definitely smells like oil. I'm not loosing any antifreeze but it does seem to use a little bit of oil, I heard the oil I use (Cen-Pe-Co) is known for that so didn't think nothing of it. Last summer I did head gasket and new guides in head. So my guess is ether a seal was faulty or a guide not true that ruined a seal prematurely. I don't think it's the turbo seal because engine runs rough and if it was exhaust seal on turbo I don't think it would change how engine runs. Is there anything else I'm missing that can cause mostly whit…

Truck has a new injection pump and lift pump. Injectors were replaced last year. New CPS... has fuel to injection pump but very little to injectors. Injector lines to 1, 3, and 4 are cracked open. Number 3 gets a small amount of fuel, numbers 1 and 4 get none. Borrowed a good ECM and still just cranks. The injection pump was tested and it is good. Has a brand new air dog raptor 100 lift pump. Truck has 17 psi to isspro gauge when you turn key on... when cranking it has 12 psi. RPM sits around 250 when cranking. Injection pump has 12.2 volts to connection. Overflow valve is good at 13.5 pounds. Not sure what is causing the problem at this point need help.

I recently purchased a blanket for my stock HX35. FYI, the only place that makes one for the wastegated HX35 is https://thermalzero.com The family decided to take a trip to the coast to get out of the smoke so this was my chance to see how it worked. Because most of the western side of America is up in flames, the only way we could get to the ocean was up into Oregon and down hwy 199, as everything else was closed... Not a big deal but this meant that I was forced to drive up the long summit I-5 grade by Mt Ashland. I'm not sure how high this pull is...but its certainly a long pull and feel like you're driving uphill forever. Thankfully though, we drove t…

What do you folks think about statement below for our trucks? True or false or full of it? (from http://midwestecmrepair.com/new-standard.html ) How dead is your ECM? There's a few different levels of non-functionality Key on; stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights come on & go back off (normal) stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights come on, go off & come back on (active fault) stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights come on & stay on (ECM locked up) stop engine / check engine / engine warning lights don't come on at all (ECM not powering up) xxxxxxxx…

I have a 1999 24 valve cummins I just replaced the turbo but that didn't help but my problem is I'm losing power when I accelerate and I bbn low black smoke and my exhaust temp gauge is around 12 when I go up hill inclines or anytime I need power. I could really use some help.

02 3500 2wd 6speed quad cab. 225k, Recently noticed noticed the vacuum sensor on the airbox tripped. Upon inspection found that the air filter was full of rodent nest and the filter was partially sucked into the intake tube. Good bet some debris got sucked into my turbo and the turbo intake housing is dirty/grimy. Lucky I don't see any damage on the compressor blades and it spins freely thankfully. So ripped out the factory airbox and put in a RBHAF. Went with the baldwin 2820 since it seems a bit better constructed with an internal wire cage. Loving the sound. I can clearly hear the turbo spool up now. Wondering if this will improve my fuel mil…

Morning Gents. Following is a YouTube link of truck going down the road. Speed dependent tick/knock. Started happening after I installed water/meth injection and wasnt smart enough to dial timing way back. Since symptoms manifested I've redone valve lash, retorqued exhaust manifold bolts and both hotside turbo mounts. I'm not sure where to go from here, truck still has power, rod bearing on the way out? Really appreciate any insight. https://youtu.be/YgKtf61n9iE

Can anyone offer a suggestion as to why my fuel mileage is so poor, I have played with several different tunes on my quadzilla and still can’t get over 14 on the highway. I’m running 35 in tires. I’ve heard it could be injection pump but it was replaced not to long ago and it’s been running great so it’s hard to believe that’s the problem. I’m also on stock injectors

The following is not meant to create an argument just to simply explain my personal results and what I honk is right when doing a valve lash job on my truck. So everyone here has told me and untold amounts of other members here to do valves on a cold engine. Wrong. Valve lash must be done on a warm engine to get good results. The reason behind this is simple. When the tappets get hot they expand and when they get cold they contract. So if you adjust your valves while cold when you operate your truck the valves are going to expand and not allow proper intake and exhaust valve operation. I personally tried to complete an adjustment 2 times on a cold engine and both ti…

I’ve got an oil leak at this location and I bought new seal kits for both pumps but not sure how’s to go about this? Anyone got a step by step guidelines? Thanks

This is my first post so I'll try to get everything out on the table. Let me start by saying I have done all of the work on my truck 1998.5 24v dodge 2500. My current mods in my signature are up to date as of today. So first mods into the transmission which is the 47RE included a BD Stage 3 build kit following a goerend triple disk. I drove it that way for a little over 3 months. Money came around now I just recently purchased the ranging pressure valve body from goerend. Still running stock flexplate and shafts(I know not a good thing to do). After installing the new VB everything was fine for all of about 2 days. On the 3rd day is when the problems started. …

I’ve been having problems with either my hydro boost or master brake cylinder. I press my brakes and it seems hard put press a little harder and they work. But now my power steering pump is starting to hum. What could be causing this issue?

I started up my truck today, it's in a dead-cold been-parked state. I got a check engine light, the check gauges warning text light came on and immediately my temperature gauge pegged. The engine is cold! I check codes with the key turn method I get: P1693 followed by P0118. I pull more codes with my ODB2 reader and get P0118 & P0116 I tested the temperature sensor for ohms. Room temp, about 70 degrees, I get 8.6k ohms Cold water from the fridge I get 19.3k Boiling water I get 700 ohms It's doing something but not sure if it's doing that something right or not. I tested the connec…

i've had my transmission rebuilt a month ago, new apps (timbo), cleaned and make sure i had good connection for my MAP and AIT sensor. No CEL. i've done the key trick and p1693 pops up so i hook up my scanner and i get no codes. i've put on all new HD battery cables and make sure all my grounds are good plus have done W-T's ground mod. i have no tuner. i have a FASS 150 and my fuel filters were changed a couple months ago and it has been the same before and after fuel filter changes. my truck drives fine from idle to about 2,000 rpms. when i stomp on it i've gotten it to maybe 2,200rpms but it feels and sounds like it's redlining or working really hard. now my abs and bra…

Hey guys, So the truck will let out huge cloud if sitting for a few days. Clears up to just a little haze right away. Idle for a min then driveaway smokes till the truck is warm. Then gone and cant make it smoke and runs to what I think is perfect. If ran everyday the first startup puff of smoke is small but still smokes till up to temp. I have ran a bottle cleaner with little inprovement. Have been reading for awhile on line now with out any great success. Thinking hoping only injectors cause I wouldnt mind upgrading anyway. Anyone have this same problem.

Guys please excuse me as I am new to this platform. I recently purchased a 98.5 Ram 3500 5spd 4x4 that had some issues that I knew about before I bought it. It was throwing P0336 and P1693. Previous owner had replaced the crank sensor but I did it again just to be sure. Verified continuity from the ECM plug to the crank sensor connector and installed a brand new connector also. It was still doing the same thing, start right up, run and idle fine but had no tachometer, and after about 45 mins to an hour start running very choppy and inconsistently. I swapped the ECM with one from a 1999 2500 5spd 4x4 suspecting it initially. The choppiness and bad running at the hour mark…

I recieved a postcard regarding a settled class action on the 53 block,documentation is required to claim a max $500(i know not much) but the crack would have to occured after the 5/100 warranty and before 250k:spend:,but i believe that is you have a 53 block you will recieve one.

Well I thought I'd share my findings on trans temps delivering hay lately. Been hauling the same size load on same road, made four trips over the last month or so for this example. Most of my other deliveries are closer to home and trans never gets warmed all the way up. Trailer is weighing in roughly at 15,000 and making a 70 mile each way trip at 55-60 mph. Takes a little over half way through the trip to reach its towing temp of about 190°. Running empty I usually see 150-160°. Temp probe is in drivers side pto cover, I installed it when I changed trans fluid to amsoil in the spring. I did however take the expressway home today because I was running short on time and …

Hi im new to the forum and to dodges we dont really have many in the UK.. Im currently looking at buying injectors for my truck been reading alot about what size is best for this spec etc. My truck is pretty stock at the minute. But can anyone tell me what size would be good for a chipped truck with a BHAF... i dont do any towing truck is purely for fun and taking my bike to the track... Thanks everyone..