2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys, My truck has suddenly felt like it has lost a crazy amount of power. It is not as noticeable until the torque converter locks in overdrive and the truck feels like a turd. Also, when the truck is warm and idling in park it has an intermittent miss/popping sound,which goes away when put into gear. This sound has occurred for about 2 years now, so I haven't thought much of it. Would you guys think this would be the injectors finally wearing out or the VP getting ready to die? I have no codes. Shift points have also gotten noticeably longer, as it will ride 3rd gear forever now. I have pressure tested my Airdog 150 and everything comes out as spec since…

hey guys my shrader valve is leaking how do I order a new banjo where the shrader is in it to match the one in my 24 valve, can I just cap this or do I need to order the one made for a fuel pressure gauge and just go ahead and do away with shrader valve

Finally giving into adding 2 stroke oil. Are there any 2 or 3 or even 5 gallon reservoir/container (with measurements) that gets mounted somewhere and if you put in 30 gallon of fuel, you can open a drain valve on reservoir and gravity feed into tank? Used to mix 2 stroke oil for outboard motors about 3 times a week. Gets messy sometimes no matter who well you plan it out.

I've seen to run across another normally simple task that is giving me headaches Are there any tips or tricks to removing the crankcase vent on the timing cover? My vehicle has the plug (12) and not the actual vent (20) with the puke bottle. Being thin, it is quite difficult to grab onto and it just wont move at all. I see there is an o-ring that goes along with it. Are these notorious for being difficult to remove?

So I've been noticing that here and there my truck will put out a good amount of white smoke when starting up cold. This morning it did it for maybe a minute, tops, but went away after that. The truck had sat since Friday through some 30ish degree weather and I plugged it in on a timer so it'd be on a few hours this morning. Also used grid heaters and still had smoke. It doesn't do this any other time through out the day, but it also doesn't do it on every cold start in the morning so sort of weird and inconsistent. What do you think? Anything to worry about or sound normal?

Can anyone tell me what the length on my driveline should be from the front yoke to the back ujoint ? It's a y2k ctd auto 4x4 long bed.

Hey! ok so ple ase help me here I just bought a 98.5 cummins about a month ago and it has this issue that I just cant seem to tackle and its super frustrating! if I have ac on just cruzing along in overdrive (48+ mph) it jumps in and out of overdrive! but as soon as I turn the ac off.. no problem! it runs great.... turn it back on it goes right back into this cycle of going in and out of overdrive. when I first got it the ac worked but the fan didn't work so when I took it home and got to lookn at it closer I noticed a wire going to the + battery turminal and it had a blown fuse right there too.. replaced the fuse and fan works great now...... just tonight I put a APP…

Hey guys - I could use some help. I've done a ton of mods to this truck and I have two issues - plus I suspect I should be getting a lot more performance. 1. Very difficult to start in cold weather. If I don't have the block heater plugged in I get a ton of white smoke and it's very hard to start until the temp reading hits about 50. This is with the Edge set on level zero. Once it hits a certain temperature boom! It's like a light switch and it runs great though it still smokes (whitish) while the extra fuel burns off. Floor pedal does nothing until it runs, Edge says APP is reporting correct positioning. I can hear the grid heater go 'clu…

Thank you. Your message about wiring a relay in the circuit for the lift pump saved my ecm. Yesterday I lost fuel pressure and the auto reset breaker got so hot it stuck in the on position. I couldn't hold it in my hand. I can't imagine what this would have done to the ECM. IMHO all should wire a relay in the circuit to the lift pump. Thanks again.

What are yalls opinions on opti lube I have been using it and seems to smooth out idle and motor seems to run better than with just the 2 stroke oil I have run in the past. It is little expensive but has better lubricity results from past studies

INSTALLING PROTECTIVE LIFT PUMP RELAY The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35. Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat. After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure. Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump. As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance. This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed…

I may have posted here before. I have had this issue for sometime and have read that is a concern and also read that it's not a problem unless fp drops. My fuel pressure mostly runs at around 18ps and down to 14 psi at WOT when towing a heavy load. I noticed yesterday that while unloaded, I drove to round trip 5 hours and let truck sit for about 4 hours. Then when I got in it to leave to go home from work, my fuel pressure was bouncing up a lot. It will run at 18 psi or and it just so happen when cruising in 5th gear, the fp would drift up and down from about 24-25psi back down to 18psi. It did this a bunch of times and slowly settled out the longer truck ran …

Hey guys. I got a pretty loud knock happening with the old Cummins and could use some help identifying it. My alternator went out on a business trip this week. In an attempt to limp the truck to the next town I ran it dead. I had a new alternator put in it and got it all charged back up. When I fired it back up it was smoking a lot I had a miss and knocked real bad. I put about 20 miles on it and the miss/smoke went away but the knock is still there. It changes up and down with engine speed. I have checked under the hood or tools left over belt issues and anything obvious. Boost fuel pressure and exhaust temp are all normal. No check engine light but I w…

Alright, first off and for most thank you for any and all reply I receive So I have done a fair bit of Googleing and searching around, and have come up with nothing. Called cummins, called blue chip diesel, and haven't found a single person who has had the same issue happen. I have a 5 speed 99 dodge 4x4 2500 exsb, ts mvp fuel boost Pyro gauge, bhaf, s366, 150 injectors, pusher intake. When I start the truck at any time it INSTANTLY revs to 3000 ish rpm, then drops to 1000. When I push on the accelerator it will only Rev to 1800 or so, and that's it. Sounds awful and produces and incredible amount of white smoke (as in my cul-de-sac is filled as soon as the truck finish…

Hi all, I have searched and searched for this info and I don't believe I have the answer. I need help. Short version: I need to replace stud and flange nut that hold my VP44 on. What sizes are they? How do I find them? Long version: I have been slower than molasses working on my VP44 replacement as I am not dependent on my truck for a living any longer. I went out to try and finish up. I lost one of the flange nuts that hold the pump to the mount. No big deal, I'll take an original to the parts store and get another. Well, it has turned into an ordeal. They tried it and said it was a 3/8" x 16tpi. Ok, order in 2, please. The…

I got confirmation on the likely death of my VP44 and have been lining up funds to buy parts. I also had leaking transmission lines so was going to put in the 47RE cooler line replacement kit, but it is out of stock. How do I find out what the eta is on it coming back into stock?

I have a 2001 dodge reg cab 2wd with the auto tranny only bought about a month ago. It shifts great in the first few gears but the last 2 seems to hold till about 2000rpm and then shift pretty hard. I have checked the alt and am only about .024 ac volts. I am going to clean the grounds anywhere I see them. Fluid still looks brand new, but may replace and put new filter on. Any suggestions or has any one had same type of issues. Thanks to everyone so far for being helpful.

My truck runs rough at idle, any throttle position, unloaded, under load, doesn't matter. Now it is NOT a cylinder misfire. However, it does seem to sound consistent when i enable 6 cylinder high idle. You can hear it and feel it in the truck during high idle (you can even see it in the mirrors. I have tried to take a video but it doesn't really show up well because the truck is just so loud. Now in 6 cylinder high idle (at 1200) rpms the "miss" is Consistent but about once every second or so. How can this be?! The whole fuel system seems to check out. Fuel pressure is all normal. Still have great fuel economy and power. There is usually a heavy lope when cold, then clear…

Here are some videos of the pre and post Quadzilla with V2 Tuning. Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/ You can find the "How To Tune" article here If you find after watching the below videos that you want to upgrade to the Quadzilla Adr…

Alright guys stupid question I got a set of 150 nozzles brand new the other day in a trade... my question is if I buy some new stock injectors and swapped nozzles would I still have to have them pop tested ......? my local injector shop charges a insane amount of cash to pop and shim injectors... just curious