2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

02 3500 2WD 6speed dually 214,000 miles This is kinda hard to describe but I'll try Over the last few months, started to notice while driving down the road at highway speeds - most notably above 60 mph, whenever I hit a slight (or any sort of) bump in the road - as the suspension bounces down - I hear a whining gear-ish grinding sound. It only happens on the downward bounce. Points to ponder - - Truck has a service body installed. it's not super heavy but the helper springs are just touching. I also have firestone air springs installed - but I don't use them to "hold" weight or lift it up etc. I usually keep the pressure low for added stability - 10 …

19psi while running yesterday, around 10 cranking, plenty of fuel coming out when I loosen the return banjo. Nothing more than a slight trickle out the back/at the injectors while cranking. Tries to start on ether (grid delete, sprayed through the boost bolt) but since there's no fuel it's unsustainable. First VP went out at ~130K while towing. I replaced it with one from a truck at a friend's shop that he had owned since new but had a cracked 53 block, and I've been running on it ever since. Last night, after driving all day, I went to Daytona to bring an engine crane to a racer friend who's running the SCCA Nationals, and shut it off so we could hang out for a bi…

Ok. I'm new here and have an issue I've been stumped on for 2 months. I bought a 99 24 valve that was a 5 spd truck, it came with all the automatic stuff from another 99. I have everything installed and all is good except the PCM. The PCM is the 56040199 which is verified a 99 automatic PCM, however when starting the truck, it acts like a 3rd gen with a transponder key. It starts, runs for 3 secs and dies.... It did that 3 times and now a no start and I know 2nd gens didn't have a transponder key. It has full communication with the obd2 connector but no CEL's and now a no start. I "borrowed" the PCM out of my 00 which starts, runs and drives the truck but I have no commu…

I believe I am having issues with my 6 speed manual... i have a good size rear main seal leak... 6 speed manual... lately i've noticed.. my fuel milage slipping... but it gets better after about 2 or 3 hours of hauling a medium load.... i don't get it...ill be towing a trailer and albeit i know 6s isn't a pulling gear after about 1900 rmps it will pull okay when you ask it too... but not the first 2 or 3 hours of my voyage... anyhow... i've had a few back yard guys look at my truck and they are all suggesting... im getting oil from my rear main seal to my clutch??? Is that even possible? Truck has been a hwy truck since 50000 km where i bought used ... back then it had a…

wondering if anybody has had this problem. just bought an 01 6 spd 24v good shape but was told it needed an injector pump or an ecm. 1689 was only code at sellers house but ran and drove fine so i thought maybe the guy didnt know what he was talkin about.. ok so paid him , drove it home with engine light on.. no problems..got home, erased code still ran fine..a couple days later 1st start up engine light came on, rpms shot up to around 2k for a couple secs then came down to 900 rpms ,,, idles fine but throttle cuts out at about 1500 rpms..havent checked fuel pressure yet at pump but it has a holley pump on frame rail so im hopin its good ..so far i have went through the 1…

I've had my truck just about a year now and I've only seen it up to operating temp twice, normally it runs 160 to 165. During the winter months I made a cold weather front from a sheet of aluminum that blocked 95% of the radiator and it still only ran 160. Back in May I towed maybe 4500 pounds 750 miles or so round trip average speed was 70 to 75mph and it still only ran 160. About 3 weeks ago I pulled the radiator and power washed all the oil and dirt out of it and installed a new 190 thermostat. I noticed it ran slightly warmer about 170 but its been back around 160 ever since. In less than a week I'm taking a trip out west of the Rockies and would like to see it run …

Hi, I was wondering whats the best way to bleed the power steering system I had to drain it after removing the pump to fix a leaky vacuum pump. I got the truck steering after reving the engine to about 1500 rpm's but the brake are very very soft and the abs and parking lights also came on during the process... Thanks

working on a 2001.5 dodge diesel quad cab 4x4 . I want to replace the convertor , is there enough room to slide the tranny back and swap out the convertor , or is t going to have to be dropped to the ground ? If I do this I'm working outside under a tarp and I was hoping to just sling the tranny to the frame and pull it backwards .

Hello everyone. I'm on my third APPS in less than a year in my 2000 2500. Once replaced, code 0122 is gone, but I then get 1693. The APPS have lasted anywhere from three months, to three days, to even six hours. Then, the surging at around 50-55mph(after OD kicks in, if I'm not gettin on it)starts again. It will even do it with no code 0122 or check engine light. I have zero experience in how ECM and PCM codes work. If the 1693 isn't cleared after replacement, will it still think there is a problem, and could that be causing this screwy, vicious circle?

Ok I changed my injectors a few years back thinking they were causing my surging problem when towing. I think it ended up being alternator with excessive ac noise. The injectors I had were 8 holes and said bosh on them, I didn't know any better thinking they were stock I got a set from DAP that are 60hp thinking I'll be gaining some hp and mpg, And actually lost hp and mpg. And when talking to DAP they said that my injectors were not factory and couldn't use them as core so it costed me another $150, and I asked for my old injectors back and instead of my old ones they sent me another set of theirs that were new and said 75hp on the bag. So I guess I got another set of in…

I know this is a dumb question, on an 02 cummins 5 speed, everything under the hood is stock except for the lift-pump, which is a fass lift-pump, and reading and knowing fuel pressure is everything, how would a big line kit help?

My abs and brake light are one I am thinking a have a front sensor out. I wanted to make sure there wasn't a wire broken and I can't for the life of me even find them and I just missing them or does the wheel have to come off

After sitting on my shop shelf of over 5 years, I think it is FAR past time to install the Mag Hytec diff covers I bought. I went out to the garage shop and checked.......only 3 quarts of Amsoil 75W-90 left. I had some Walmart Supertech 75W-90 and 75W-140 but only 2 or 3 bottles of each. Called my local petroleum dealer and asked them if they had any and they told me they have Conoco Phillips 75W-90 and 80W-140 synthetic. http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheettext.aspx?matguid=e316b9e0fb4b46a5839e141543882fdf http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/brands-products/Single.aspx?pid=372 I am leaning towards the 80W-140. I can get both the 75W-90 or the 80W-1…

Sorry guys, I know it's been like a broken record, but now that some time gone by has anybody got comments on using newer stuff with less zinc and phosphor on older engines. I've been running amsoil (1400 ppm zink) for few years now and don't have any problems with it other than price and the way you got to get it if you want a half a.. deal on it. Plus I don't put enough miles on it a year to justify it anymore. Called Cummins and they use Valvoline Premium Blue in just about anything and it replaces all of the older stuff. Guy said it had 1200 ppm of zinc in it and was plenty for flat tappets, price at cummins was $14.50 a gallon. Then I called Delo and talked with thei…

Hi all, Doing a service on my 47RE Fluid, Filter, band adjustment. Since I have the pan down, would like to put in my TransGo shift kit. Any how to's on how to remove the 47RE? I found them for the 48 & 46 but would like a 47 specific so I don't mess it up. Once I have it down, TransGo did send a detailed instruction. But since I'm an Auto newb, you guys are my backup! Thanks, Dave

Guys, I have a friend who has intrusted in me to fix his truck. It is a 2001 CTD. This truck use to start when you turned the key right away, hardly would crank over a half an engine revolution and start. Now it cranks two or three complete revolutions before it starts, usually after a hot restart. He lost the factory lift pump years ago and had the dealer install an intank lift pump. He had the injector pump fail shortly after that pump was replaced. I'm wondering what the lift pump pressure should be when the key is turn to run but engine not started. I have none at this time but it starts and has presure of about 7 to 8 psi when running. Should there be initi…

When you guys get shiny new performance parts or even replacement parts do you inspect them before installing them? I've always made it habit to give the part a quick once over before installing, more so with parts from the auto parts stores than expensive performance parts. Anyway I had ordered a BD flex plate for my truck and it showed up today. Not 10 seconds out of the box I noticed that a few of the tack welds that hold the starter ring gear on had appeared to be cracked. From arms length you'd have a hard time noticing it, but I work in a weld/fab shop so naturally I see these things daily. I put a call in to BD and explained to them that I had found what appeared t…

Ok so I put a new vp44 injection pump on the truck thinking that was the problem. But it wasn't I turned the truck over and over and wouldnt crank. I unplugged the rear plug on the pump and straight wired the pump and cranked right up. Then I checked the plug pin # 6 and 7 gets 12 volts on the on position and 10 on the starting position. Pin # 5 doesn't have any voltage so it's not that. Anyone know what or why the electronics won't work and allow the truck to crank? Thanks.

Can anyone send a pic of the wiring on the back of a gauge pod high idle switch? Thanks.

I installed the timbo sensor a little over a month ago and it seemed to have worked fine for about a month then the bucking and dead pedal started again this time not as bad but still could tell it was the same problem. So I cleaned all battery cables then reset it and it worked for about another week and now is doing it again. Could the sensor I got be bad? What am I doing wrong?