2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Is there a fuse I can remove to keep from starting...or something else I can do to turn over the engine to circulate some oil prior to starting? Or maybe I don't need to do anything? Currently 1/2 tank of fuel, my game plan from VP44 back to fuel tank is to drain and flush, new filters and biocide I assume pretty dry inside engine is reason for asking. (Between Thanksgiving and Christmas have lots planned...additional fuel filter, flush cooling system, WT Mod, and updated radio) Thanks

1999 stock 24 valve Cummins. 2wd. Over 350k on it, when purchased in 2011 I was told some work had been on the transmission, but not sure what (it had 278k at that time). We live on good 'ole Monteagle mountain, and this truck's main purpose in life is hauling a horse trailer. I don't need anything fancy, just dependable. About a year ago, while hauling the horse trailer on the interstate it shifted funny a few times, and the engine felt like it got bogged down. No biggie, maybe bad fuel or something? Drove fine for months. Randomly, the odometer/speedometer, and port where my ScanGauge plugs in quit working About 6 months ago, the tru…

Hi all I'm new to the forum and this is my first cummins truck. 1999 3500 It's completely stock aside from the vp44 and my newly installed raptor FRRP 100gph lift pump. The vp44 isn't a hotrod as far as I know I believe it's a stock replacement, previous owner had it done. The truck runs fine at any speed, matter of fact it has more pulling power and better throttle response so I'm reluctant to say my VP is bad? My issue is it is very hard to start after installing my raptor. The morning previous to install, it started perfectly fine, fired extremely fast, got home from work did the install and it's been hard to start ever since. I have to give it some throttle otherwise…

I decided to take a crack at this just becuase my turbo failed and I love a good 3d puzzle. Please share any info you have that can: 1) teach me something 2) make the adventure easier Any and all fun turbo stories are welcome!!

So the truck came with a set of Rickson wheels 19.5" and a set of tires that were less than a year old. I liked the old forged-in-America wheels so I decided ot keep them on the truck. I have never had one of these trucks befoer this one so I have no comparative baseline on how it "should" run and drive. In LA these trucks are like hen's teeth and I have not found anyone near me that knows much abou them at all. My local dodge dealer is a waste of real estate and every time I've gone there they turn up their nose at my old truck and try to sell me a new truck :-) I couldn't even get a radiotor cap from that palce. After studdying this issue of …

Could I ask a huge favor from someone. I would like a picture of the inside of the gear case and where all the bolts are without the cam and pump gear in the way. My oil leak is on the rear side of the gear case and running down to the corner of the pan and blowing back. I'm looking at options to tighten all the bolts and see though. Or loosening all the bolts and separate a little and get a small bead of silicone behind the edge. Either way it leaking engine oil pretty good in 15 miles its got oil splattered all the way to the transfer case.

It's getting time for a rebuild, previous owner was a kid who didn't know how to take care of things lol. I'm planning on 7x12 sticks for my s363 turbo. But I'm not sure which cam I need. The truck is going to be my daily driver so I need something pretty streetable, if anybody can point me in the right direction or give me some input on the cams that you have tried I would greatly appreciate it??????

I figured a few on here would get a kick out of this. not affiliated with any of this, just wanted to spread the laughs.

Does anyone have a picture diagram explaining how to tap into the fuel pump relay wire and where? New to these wires and not sure what wire I'm looking for. I'm trying to install a kill switch on my 2001 2nd gen cummins.

Anybody got any input as far as these HE351W Turbo's as far as performance in low/mid range RPMs vs other upgrade Turbos This is a pretty much direct drop in Turbo, Just need to "Clock" the Compressor cover, plus my Pacbrake will bolt up to it. https://shop.dieseltuff.com/HE351W-19915-2002-Turbocharger-New-Outright-No-Core-HE351W.htm

I'm confused as can be, and this'll be long-winded.. Subject: 1998.5 2500 Cummins 24V 5 speed RCLB 4WD. 115K miles Complaint: He (good friend of mine, and neighbor) stopped by the other day with it poppin', stumbling, hazing, and no power. Also, fuel gauge is not correct, and reads very inaccurately. I checked the FP at the injector pump.. KOEO, 12psi. KOER, idle 10, At 1500rpm, 5-6psi. Fuel filter was changed a few months back, truck's been about 1500 miles since. I could barely hear the in-tank pump (it's had the dodge conversion from block-mounted to in-tank lift pump). Codes: P1693, P0216.. (dun dun dunnnnn) …

I was coming home yesterday towing my trailer and a car on it cruising at 70 mph in cruise all off a sudden the rear tires locked up and I skidded to a stop leaving a nice long set of dually tracks on the road. Luckily I wasn't on to big of a highway. Anyway initially I thought rear end was locked up but that's not the case. The trucked would not pull forward at all, but when the roll back pulled the truck backwards it rolled smooth and then when he pulled it forward after pulling it backwards it pulled fine no issues. Unloaded the truck and I drove it into the shop. Now I haven't broke into anything yet the driveshaft doesnt seem twisted all the u joints are still tight …

Approximately a year ago my lift pump(Raptor)quit working because my ECM was misbehaving(WTS light only working part time). I hot-wired lift pump through a switch as I needed truck. I have since had ECM repaired and all is good, however I would like to know what the folks here would suggest I do with lift pump power. Should I hook it back up to ECM, through a relay of course, or should I use @IBMobile ASD wiring article for lift pump power? I’m kinda apprehensive about hooking to ECM again but that would be simplest. Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

Finished the auto to manual swap , put RV 275 injectors in and a comp box , now it's turbo time. It's a daily driver that will pull a 5th wheel. I have considered a he 351 cw and plumbing it on , Would appreciate any advice on a turbo choice . Thank you and have a great day.

With all of the problems people been having lately with trannys, at least some I'm sure, I decided to not wait any longer and ordered some coolers and filter kit for my transmission. Currently I run 7 qts of Amsoil synchromesh (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA) for about 4 years and 20k ml now. Heard different opinions on how much to overfill, some say at least a qt some say 8-9 qts. This has probably been beaten to deaf by now, but also some time has gone by, so hoping for some input from guys that use Fast coolers (http://www.genosgarage.com/product/fc-6-spd-dg/transmission-coolers…

Want to see what you guys think on this subject. Couple of things, one is why do we need to run atf+4 and not something like even 10-30 motor oil or some similar weight hydraulic fluid. And two I'm in process of messing with my leaky tcase from rear output seal. I changed it for the 3rd time now, but this time I changed tail bushing too, it got deformed up on install at the oil drain grove, at least driveshaft feels tight now. It did have a drip after first trip but now it's seems ok. Some residual fluid from lubing it on install maybe. So I just want to flush tcase for some reason. Question is what do you think would happen if anything if I mix matched differe…

I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 24V Cummins 3500 2WD Dually. Yesterday I moved the little selector on my fuel filter housing and pushed it down releasing a little diesel. I stopped after about 5 seconds. I did that with the truck off. After about 2 hours I went to leave and the truck turned over, fired and then stalled. Since then it won't crank. I have watched some YouTube videos about priming it, some people saying I let air in the system other saying my VP is toast and honestly I am new to Dodge Cummins so I am not familiar with what to do. This is what I've done so far: 1. Turned the truck over about 45-50 times, it won't fire. I killed both batteries…

I know this topic can get a little heated so I'm really not trying to start that up, just want to gather some info. It's time for another oil change and I'm doing it myself. My dealer raised their prices so it no longer makes sense to take it to them. Here's my questions 1. Currently have 15w-40 dino oil and looking to swap to synthetic. I've only seen Amsoil that has a synthetic 15w-40, does anyone else? 2. If I do put something like Rotella T6 5w-40, what's the chances of making leaks worse or appear? 3. Should I even worry about running a lighter weight oil when my current climate never see's 0* or below temps?

Fuel filter change is coming up, have the fass routed into the factory canister so I can keep the WIF light. can I use the canister without the filter since I already have the fass for filters? Anyone ever tried it?

Ok, a little backstory- the truck has a build date of 8/99, auto 2500 with 370k miles I bought this truck recently with a bad transmission but had a reman in the bed. I dropped the reman off at a tranny shop to have them check it out and picked up a single disc torque converter while I had it out. The tranny checked out ok so I swapped the transmissions. On initial install, I only had 1,2,3 shifts with no od and no lockup. I dropped the pans on both and noticed the pressure sensors were different. I swapped the od solenoid, pressure sensor, and wiring harness from the original tranny to my new transmission. By doing so, I was able to pick up od and lockup but not it…