2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Truck decided not to restart once Saturday, started Sunday and died once, one restart since then. No rhyme or reason. but. . . I have 8 volts on the grounds at the Aux. battery for the PCM and ECM. Disconnect them with the key on and everything comes on like normal but no start. (no voltage on VP pin 7) Reconnect and it will start. (voltage on VP pin 7) Will restart everytime after you disconnect and reconnect grounds at Aux. battery. Any thoughts?

So my pinion deal decided to throw gear oil all over my truck last weekend so I’m replacing it. 2 questions, first any tips on getting this seal to come out? I’ve been working at it with a hammer and screwdrivers and it doesn’t want to go. Also, not sure of the name but the input Shaft of the differential has a LOT of play. It’s moving around a ton when I’m going at the seal with the screwdriver. Really hoping this is normal, needing a rear end would not make me happy. I took a video of the play but I’m not sure how I could get it to post here. It’s moving quite a bit, though. Any advice is helpful, thanks!

Okay, fellas I need some help understanding what I'm seeing here. Over the past several drives, when I first start the truck up the BRAKE and ABS lights might stay on for a short bit (less than a minute) and then go out. Once or twice, I also caught the speedo popping up as I started to drive. Like it was at 0, then suddenly popped up to whatever speed I was going, 20-ish MPH... I wasn't really watching it, so I'd sorta see it happen just outside of my view. Then today, idling for about a minute in a parking lot, about to leave, the NO BUS message appears in my odometer, the MIL, ABS, FUEL and the AIRBAG lights are illuminated, and I lose my gau…

Hello all, I have a 2001 24valve Dodge ram 2500 automatic. Wonder if my vp44 is bad. Today when driving, on acceleration I got a really bad stutter/cough in the engine. I double checked the voltage on the timbo apps and it is in spec and no dead spots. On the raptor pure flow the fuel pressure is 15psi at idle and around 12psi when accelerating. I have changed the alternator, it's in spec, I even disconnected fuse and harness to isolate if it could be that and it didn't go away. On low pressure side of vp44 primed to make sure no air on that side. No error codes and at my wits end what to do next. attaching a video if that helps. any thoughts…

ok everyone im new here, but ive done alot of reading and can't find anything to help. I have a 2001 2500 24v 4x4 5speed swapped. The truck has the auto pcm but manual tranny harnes. as far as upgrades i have 40 over sticks, s&b cold intake, airdog, and a V2. an tips or sugestion as to why i cant over 2000 rpms?!?!?!?!?!?! thanks in advance for the help!!

Truck ran out of fuel at quarter tank, no lights prior to, and when I got some fuel in it and started, I had a cel shortly after for p0341, and p0230, and the tach doesn’t work, rest of cluster works, and tach works on the tuner screen, also seems to make a weird noise under the hood kind of in the front cover area, Sounds like some kind of knock or something IMG_0669.MOV

I have got a weird problem maybe one of you can chime in with a answer on my predicament. I have a 2001 3500 5.9 with a starting issue. I already replaced the IP and got it started with the help of Doug from Blue Chip following his directions. However, it will only run with the C3 wiring connector unplugged from the PCM?? It has np power and the odometer reads NO BUSS due to the C3 plug unplugged. I am trying to trace the wires from the PCM in the C3 wiring and have not found anything yet. How would I know if a wire is bad on one of these wires? Also could it be something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated!! Thanks! Steve

Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (li…

Found out today my new reman ecm is trashed. My old one had a bad processor and SIA said they can't get processors to repair them anymore. That's why I bought a reman from ARES tech only to find out today their lifetime warranty is only on the original unit not the one they send you as replacement. Needless to say I'm losing faith in the truck and ecms. The WTS won't come on, fuel pump won't run, heater grid relays stay on and no communication with a scan tool. PCM even has no communication unless you unplug the ECM. Basically similar to my original symptoms of bad processor. From first day I had this ecm it wouldn't start until I cleared the meriad of codes it had even t…

On my last recent outing With the 5ver hooked up, and pulling some of Colorado’s steeper grades like wolf creek pass that’s 9 miles and 7-9% grade with a couple hairpin switchbacks and no breaks climbing the grade to help with cooling, my trans was creeping up to 250’ before I reached the top, ( the trans temp probe is on the output line side so I am reading the hottest temp possible as it’s just leaving the torque converter) as I was nearly to the top I just kept going and let it cool at the summit, grossing around 19k, everything else was holding its own, but the transmission temps, and having a fresh tranny rebuild I need to try prolong the trans. life the best I can…

I got a recall notice in an email..cant figure out how to post it here. So here is link via web. https://www-autoblog-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.autoblog.com/amp/2020/05/20/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recall/?amp_js_v=a2&amp_gsa=1&usqp=mq331AQFKAGwASA%3D#aoh=15901133638321&referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com&amp_tf=From %1%24s&ampshare=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autoblog.com%2F2020%2F05%2F20%2Fharbor-freight-jack-stands-recall%2F

Since I'm down here in Mojave Valley AZ the daytime temps are 112 to 116°F out it been getting easy for the teansmission to reach 170 to 180F without a trailer. Now with my homebrew heat shield is take much longer to get temp and is roughly 20 to 40°F cooler now floating around 140°F after going to Bullhead City AZ and back to Needles CA and home again just at 145°F compared to yesterday at 180°F. The test run was 50 miles in today's heat and traffic.

My truck slowly started having converter lock/unlock issues after 2.5 years of no issues. I initially removed the stock alternator because it was reading .05mv A/C voltage and that solved the lockup issues I was having. In place of the stock alternator I installed a Nations 180A alternator. Now 2.5 years later my lockup issues have slowly come back and are getting bad at 45-50mph. Today I checked A/C voltage and read .045mv on the meter. I’m wondering if anybody knows the part number for the rectifier/diode bridge to replace the Nations unit?

Hello all. New here......Just picked up a 98.5 2500 Auto trans 255K I have no cluster and says “No Bus”. Ive checked all the grounds cant find anything wrong. I got the truck from a friend of a friend and he said the cluster went out like a month after he had work done to the trans . My edge Insight only has code P1698 “no transmission bus messages” truck runs and drives fine and has for I believe years since the cluster went out Anyone got any ideas ???? I also need to reseal the vacuum pump anyone have any trick of in seas to make that job easier ? Thanks.

So I'm woundering. I have a 98.5 dodge 2500. I bought an 01 motor and didnt know the wiring was that much difference. But it is. I can find much on this topic beside people saying buy the right motor for the truck. I'm going through wiring schematics and woundering can I just make an adapter for the 01 motor to plug in to the spot the 98 did.

Ok so here it goes. Bought my first cummins back in January, 2001 24v totally stock with an edge comp box. It had a bad oil leak so i tried to wash off the crud to help locate the leak ( yeah i know bad idea ) got side tracked and didn't mess with the truck for almost a week. When i did get back to it, it was a no start so i put a code reader on it an got a laundry list of codes. Long story short i came to the conclusion that it was the ecm, so i replaced it. Installed it, truck runs but if you touch to go pedal it dies instantly. Sent it to the shop. Replacd injection pump, lift pump, cam sensor and fixed the tappet cover leak. Still same problem. Sent ecm back thinking…

I am adding the link in from CF. Nothing against CF or the guys helping there, just feel that the knowledge of Mopar Man himself and the guys here is incredible as well as the resources provided by the site here. https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/fluctuating-idle.2528169/#post-29295619 I have 99, 5 Speed, 4WD, CCLB, Motor was rebuilt at 206k, currently at 215k, New FASS Titanium Signature 165, New RV275's, VP is a different story, will mention below. No tunes. Motor ran good in Montana and California throughout the winter. Came to California throughout the virus and since started finding problems. Keep in mind the temp differences…

Could I please get some help. Ive trying to get my 01 6 spd manual started after sitting for 2 years now. I got the fuel problem fixed. turned the key and nothing. new batteries fully charged. Are there still neutral safety switches? something else I could be looking for ?. TIA

Can any one give me the demisions for the trans mount plate on a nv4500 in a 2000 dodge 2500 4x4 mainly the thickness so I can build one but keep every thing at the proper height

Just purchased a used ECM + PCM for my pickup. We travel a lot (including Mexico) and I want to keep a few critical spare parts on hand just in case. The donor rig was a perfect match (2002 Dodge Cummins HO six speed) for my truck and the price was right so I jumped on it. I'm assuming the ECM especially does not need to be re-flashed or anything and will be a plug and play item. Both computers are OEM off a totaled rig (121K miles....front end smashed but engine compartment looked fine). Guess I'm taking a little bit of a chance on this purchase but both computers looked great and the truck was running (obviously) at the time so they worked right up to the accident. …