2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a 1999 24v p-pumped I'm getting a check engine light for low voltage on the tps and the truck also wont shift has a firepunk stage 1 trans. All the mods are in the picture attached. Thanks in advance!!

Finally had to change a oil cooler gasket on my truck. It has been seeping for the last 5 to 6 months leaving a small bit of coolant on the floor of the garage. I will let you all know that oil cooler gasket set is a Cummins only thing. I tried NAPA, Autozone and few others and no one stocks this gasket set. As for changing it out is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the air filter and the oil filter. On the oil filter housing remove the oil hose for the turbo. Then the bolts holding the oil cooler in place are all 10mm heads. After I got it pull out I compared the new and old gasket to realize that the rubber seal lip had failed. You c…

Grid Heater Bypass Simplified The method described below is a simplified way of turning the grid heaters on and off when starting the engine and reducing the electrical load on the alternator without setting a P0380/P0382 code. The bypass solenoid is a 300amp rated Ford type starter solenoid. When both grid heaters are on there is about 180amp draw and after start up the draw is reduced to 90 amps so the bypass relay has a 50% plus overload safety factor. Suggested Parts List 1 Standard Motor Parts starter solenoid SS-598 (bypass solenoid) 1 automotive on/off switch DC rated (your choice of style) 1 ATC fuse holder or fuse bloc…

Truck just died on side of Interstate. Pulled codes off dash......DTC P1694: NO BUS MESSAGES RECEIVED FROM COMPANION MODULE. PDC plug seems to be ok. Faulty ECM ? What else could it be?

I’ve joined the group of dead ecm’s. I had the delayed WTS light for a few years. Other than that no other problems until last week. I went to start the truck and no WTS light, no lift pump, and no start. I sent it off to Auto Computer Specialist in Florida after seeing they were recommended on here. They received it yesterday about this time. I haven’t heard anything from them yet, I figured it might be a couple days before I hear anything. Can someone who has used them give me an idea of the turnaround time? I will post back on here how my experience goes with them.

02 3500 dually 6sp nv5600 quad cab 2wd independent suspension approx 230k miles. It has the 5.9HO. I've had this truck for about 6 years, never had any clutch issues. I don't know the full history of it so I'm assuming it may have the factory clutch. This weekend I noticed it was hard to get in gear, like the clutch was not fully disengaging. I was towing a trailer for a couple days (not really a huge trailer, 10ft enclosed single axle, not really too heavy or loaded etc, prolly 3000lbs total). Clutch issue started after I had backed in and parked / disconnected the trailer. After I pulled away, I noticed it was hard to get in gear.…

So upon putting things back together on my truck after the vacuum pump rebuild, I think it is time for new IC boots and clamps.. I don't have the truck here today and am wanting to look at all my options. Does anyone know the sizes of the boots and clamps? Also if you have replaced yours and like or don't like anything about what you replaced with, please share that too.. Thank you

Was there someone here on the forum that is making a switch to turn off and on the grid heaters without triggering a check engine light? Or a after market company that supplies something like that?

So I've been testing Lucille out and seeing what's what, and I noticed according to qz my boost maxes out at 22psi. This is with stock sized injectors. I know the turbo is probably too big for my engine, but I was curious what rpm a proper turbo should start spooling on a 24v? Mine starts to come on at about 2200rpm,and I reach fuel cut off before it spools more. Aside from replacing the turbo completely, is there a way around this at all? I do plan on reinstalling my 150hp injectors, and I want about 700hp in the end. If I can get away with keeping my current turbo that would be cheaper. But I'm open to suggestions. Kinda want to stay single turbo for ease of cost.

So finally got back to actually working on the rig. I think I asked the question before but dont remember or cant find it. So I'll upload a short video on this but I have rear main and oil pan about to go on. I am uncertain on which I should first... Oil pan then rear main or vice versa...

Morning guys, I’m wondering what I will need to have my trans hold 350 hp and reliably tow? I have a deep pan on the way and planning to do a lockup switch. I’m thinking I will do a set of rv275s and a small tuner of choice. So that’s about all I’ll be doing for power. Also what do I need to know about monitoring trans temps? What is to high and what is safe?

Hey guys so this is my first post, I've been searching the Interweb for days/weeks trying to find a cause for my problem, hoping to get some help so here goes. Recently picked up this 2001 ram 2500 24v with a blown head gasket. I pulled the head, had it checked, cleaned everything and put it back together. Everything went great till i tried starting it. It will start, but as soon as its started it revs almost as if it was a run away. I can shut it down with the key so i know its not running away. I have my 5v at the apps, I've check the ecm pins all for power. Im not a electrical guru so I'm in desperate need of some help. Ive tried the apps reset with no avail. Hitting t…

Looking for turbo suggestions for RV275s and a can bus tuner?

Transmission shifting issues after rebuild sent to Dynamic. Update. SNAFU still. Tried jumper wire. Ran a few days, no change. Put relay back in. Kept going with no first in morning after after 305 stoplights and Overdrive locking it self out in city traffic on warm days. Eventually started going into limp mode(third)regularly sometimes not going into first or OD at all. Replaced NSS and relay, did not help. Disconnected BD pressure lock cylinder to make sure it was not hanging up throttle cable/valve. I think it was dirty and not returning all the way. After doing so it ran perfect for two days. Then back in full limp mode. Drove to Sacramento to shop that did re…

I have been looking for a replacement lift pump and am leaning towards a mechanical pump. Are there any major differences between the Fuel Boss and the Predator? Anything that makes one so much better than the other such as quality of parts, kit completeness, customer service, etc? This will be going on the truck in my signature plumbed in with the stock filter for now. Im trying to build a reliable low maintenance driver/tow truck, not some high hp toy. Thanks for any opinions/experience that you can provide.

Well I think my apps finally started acting up on my 2000 CTD. We’re on our way to McCall Idaho for vacation, were a little south of Council and slowing for construction I accelerate just a little, about 25-30 MPH, to get through the construction and the throttle does nothing then picks up and acts normal. Of course the check engine light comes on and stays on. It acts up one more time while slow acceleration going through McCall. Get to the RV park and after the second start up the light goes out so it probably won’t have a code. Will have to get a code reader at NAPA tomorrow. I’ve got a new APPS with me, just hope the RV Park lets me work on it. I’m sure that’s…

Video.... for some reason it wouldnt post the embedded code vid https://youtu.be/2WqmvfLG-JA

Just dreading what I have in my future. I don't remember having all this mess of wire everywhere in my previous truck. Ugh... Battery terminals have screws jammed in them on the passenger side to keep everything snug. Driver side positive post must have 5 additional lugs hooked to it.

So I just rebuilt my motor got it put back in the truck and everything hooked up. Went to crank it up and it won’t even click the starter. But I am Getting power down to the starter. I also noticed my WTS light isn’t coming on at all. Could they be the same problem? What could be the problem? Thanks in advance!

Good Morning all, my transfer case has been leaking out the tail for too long and I need to attack it this weekend. Anything special I need to know, or special tools? Timken seal good enough for the job or is there something better? Thank you in advance for wisdom and experience. Brian