2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hello all! So, I'm having suspension issues with the truck and really need them figured out. truck shakes at highway cruising speeds. It will smooth out if I move the wheel slightly (with the slack) and it'll get smoother and not be shaking. It's not death wobble like you see on YouTube but it is definitely annoying and NOT correct lol. I think tires may just need to be balanced and a good alignment. Front driver tire is also a weird wear (mud tires, each tread is up and down alternating, planning to get new wheels soon). Only thing I know that has been done to the truck suspension wise is a leveling kit. To the next problem, when turning at slow speeds (parki…

Well I had to haul some scrap to the local yard and after everything was emptied I weighed the truck with me in it and it weighed 6440lbs with me in it. 245lbs. Does my truck only weigh that much?? I had 3/4 tank of fuel and it's a 2wd. Seems a lot lighter than I expected??

My truck is all over the road. Tried tighten steering box adjustment but didn't help. I was thinking about replacing all frowned parts including steering box. What parts should I use, without having any fabrication. Thanks Charlie

Well guys, I know the majority of you prefer to level your truck by hooking up a trailer or getting a bed full of stuff. For some, that doesn't cut it. I'm a bit in between, as I don't mind the rake, but I don't like the full stock rake. Anyways, Timbrens are what I decided to go with mainly for the simplistic concept. Took all of 8 bolts to unintall the old bump stops and put the new Timbrens in their place. This shows the comprison without the extra 1in spacer Timbren supplies as well. I did end up installing that as well. Installed, kinda hard to see. Measurements were ta…

Since warm weather is just around the corner I need to get my A/C fixed. I filled it with new coolant and it lasted good for a month, but it eventually leaked out. I used the leak test stuff that you put into the AC lines and you use the glasses and the light to check for leaks however did not find the leak. Where are the most common places to check for leaks or even replace? I thought about buying a new seal kit but wanted to get some opinions first. Thanks all.

So, I’ve had ABS and brake lights on in the instrument panel since I got this truck and have read lots of threads on how to diagnose and repair the issue. My module seems to have been sent off for repairs before. Looks like the “technician “ cut through the top cover and attempted a repair without opening up the module. I have tried to open the top cover and have all the screws out but can’t seem to get the cover off. I think the connector for the pump motor is attached to the circuit board and must be left attached to the top cover and pulled through the bottom part of the module but I haven’t been able to accomplish this yet. Has anybody opened one of these up …

Got the death wobble going when I hit a bump wrong, so I suppose it's time for a brace box. Is one as good as another, are they all the same or is there some to stay away from?

I purchased the high idle kit from this website, i installed it and it idled up to 1200 for about a minute then went back to normal operating idle, i tried turning truck off an reatarting it and it wont high idle, on my edge jwa monitor it shows the correct intake temp, only thing i noticed is the throttle position flashes 1% then back to 0%, could this be affecting it? i activated the settings in the computer by using a smarty touch

The other night installed a manual temp gauge and was under the dash running the line to the motor. I bumped somthing or somthing happened. I seen my lights flicker on my radio. I then pulled my head light switch out and bam absolutely nothing works. No power at all in my fuse box. Wiring diagrams would be a big help. The harness are shortly to say the keast

Well I think it's time to replace my front axle knuckle ball joints 😞 Hopefully someone can shine a light on which ones held up or not. Local napa has some in stock, napa premium, lifetime, whatever that means? who makes them? They're pretty proud of them for $100 apiece although I'm sure there's more expensive ones but that's about as much as I want to pay. I know Spicer is a good brand, been looking for the #708047 upper and lower kit but I'm having trouble finding any in stock or discontinued. Thanks for any help!

Has anyone attempted to resolve the peeling black sticker stuff in between the side windows? I have seen a number of trucks afflicted by this. Is it vilable somewhere? I was thinking of cutting out some black vinyl and slapping it on. Maybe paint? I can just imagine the old stuff being a pain to remove. Your thoughts.

I watched a few vids on YouTube, then started to take my driver's side hub off. I pulled the axle out to discover my truck doesn't match the videos I've seen online. The vids appear to have a lock ring and a dowel that keeps the somewhat large nut from turning. Mine seems to have a piece of the metal pulled up, to create two tabs, to block the hex nut from backing out. I folded the two tabs down so I could take the nut off. But I can't seem to get any tools in there to turn the nut. I don't recall the size, but with calipers I think I measured 66 mm for that nut. Any ideas?

Took my truck in for an alignment and they told me they had a problem with the tie rod flopping back and forth when the steering wheel is turned. I also have a sort of “dead spot” in my steering while driving where the steering wheel turns a couple inches but nothing happens. I have what I think is called the “T” style steering system. The tie rod goes across from knuckle to knuckle and the drag link attaches to the tie rod. Maybe the HD style?? Anyways what can I do about the tie rod rolling? All the steering parts are fairly new and not worn.

I'm bouncing all over the road! Especially when towing 10k 5th wheel. What shocks do you recommend and where to purchase? Thx!

I was checking to see why my block heater stopped working and found that the plug had burned off. It looks like it got moisture in it and corroded and caused it to arc. Something you may want to check once and a while. If it was kept clean it would probably still work. Picking up a new one from Napa today.

My back tires are bald in the centers which tells me overinflation which I do run 60-70psi in all the time, loaded or not. I know Mike has that calculator but I am not convinced it works seeing as how no load would mean no pressure. The front tires are bald on the insides, which tells me the springs are shot, which I'm sure they are lol. Airbags for the front was only $80 so I will get the front jacked up to fix that issue.However, how do you know where level is? If I jack the front up, how do I know when the tires are perfectly flat on the ground, not leaning to one side or the other? This should factor in tire pressure probably since more pressure will make the cen…

Back in October I went ahead and upgraded to the 4th gen tie rods and while I was at it I replaced the track bar, and everything was all peachy until I hit a bump and it dropped out the socket on the driver side and I could never get it to stay, so I returned it and got a Moog bar and I'm still having problems, in fact, it's worse with bump-steer and it's like driving a wet noodle down the road. If torqued them to spec, loctited them, and even stripped the nut on the frame side I tightened it so much, and here I still sit. If anyone has a solution, it would be much appreciated! Thanks!

My truck (1997) just started to have the death wobble only while braking. I only does it sometimes. The first time it did it the wobble was bad. There was no slight vibration that has built over time. I did recently replace tires. Do you have any words of wisdom?

I took my vacuum pump & power steering pump off as a unit to seal the PS pump reservoir leak. The oil line is leaking where it connects to the vac pump. There is a threaded piece that screws into the pump itself then the oil line connects to that piece. I put oil resistant piece on the threads that screw into the pump. It looks like the leak is where the nut for the oil line threads onto that piece. Am I missing an o-ring or something? It looks like it is supposed to be a mechanical seal with metal surface to metal surface but is is a large leak. Removing the line and making sure everything was clean didn't help. Any ideas on how to stop it?

My neighbor is selling his 2001 3500...I put a injection pump and lift pump in it for him a couple of weeks ago...While I was test driving I noticed the A/C was not working...I tried giving it a charge with one of those quick charge bottles, with the built in gauge in it. There was a low charge, I brought it up to spec for the temperature. But it still is not blowing cold. I also noticed that the compressor is kicking off and on rather quickly, It builds pressure fairly quick, then kicks off right away...which is common if there is a low charge....Thinking maybe the high pressure switch is bad? Any other ideas?? Thanks