2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I know you can adjust door hinges and such but I don't believe this is the case here. I have pics from down the side of the body bottom, middle and top of the door to show what I mean. Not sure how to go about adjusting this. Roll window down, put a wood block in the door and push on the top portion only?

Looking to figure out what may be causing my trip meter to reset itself everytime the truck is turned on. List of things I have done: Load tested batteries Cleaned all battery connections Checked all fuses Cluster test The trip counter works perfectly fine while driving, no errors on the cluster test, my clock never resets time, only the trip meter. Everything else works fine. Has my cluster gone bad? It's as if the cluster is losing constant power. Any help/input appreciated.

Was wondering if any of you have ever put the full electric hvac system in a second gen? I have the system that uses a cable to adjust the temp, and besides that door being broken (held together with electric tape), something happened to the cable, and now I have to pull my glove box door out and push the little arm over for heat. It will flop back to cold every time I turn the truck off. Also, I know all my vacuum pots are working correctly, but it doesn't blow very good. I'm sick of fighting with it, I've already had it out once and resealed it, and replaced all the rotten foam with door foam (best I could find), and replaced both the heater core and the ac conden…

Hi All, Got in the truck to get the Christmas tree we are having our first good storm of the year in Northern CA. So we drove with no defrost and foggy windows. Reading the trouble shooting options the hoses are both Hot with the right being hotter, no hot air blowing anywhere If you turned off the fans and idled I did feel some heat but not enough to warm the cab. Looking at a trip to Seattle at Xmas time this isn't going to cut it. Is the Heater Treater still the hot ticket for this issue? Thanks Cold in the Central Valley!! Michael

Hey folks, I haven't posted in a while but i've been around tinkering with 2 out of the 3 2nd gen 24v's that I have. My latest project I've been working on is my red 2001 sport truck I thought I'd share. I got the truck a few months ago and immediately began tearing it apart once I got it to the house. The interior was disgusting and falling apart, typical broken dash, it rattled, there was mold growing on the carpet and it even had maggots under some old food. Here's the progress so far. Torn apart within the first 24 hours of owning it The absolutely disgusting old carpet, I was afraid to even touch it without gloves.. …

Hi, I am installing these Running Lights. Harness is 18 Gauge wire and has a 2A line fuse. The length of this universal harness far exceeds my needs for a neat install. The pamphlet cautions: “Do not modify the lamp harness or the switch harness in any way.” First inclination is to reach for side cutters, heat shrink, and tailor but wondering what others have done. Do I coil the excess or trim and are there any issues with doing so? Thanks

I had a wheel bearing go out on my 2001 2wd independent suspension 3500. Ordered a new nut for the wheel bearing hub but I'm not sure what the torque spec should be. Also whats the torque spec for the OEM wheel extenders and how do you all torque them down sense you can only fit a wrench. I am guessing you just good and tight it? Normally I'm okay with that but sense my wheel is attached to this makes me a bit paranoid.

Ok guys this is starting to drive me nuts. When I use the keyless remote to unlock my truck it occasionally sets the alarm off (3 long honks). It doesn't do it all the time but of course usually at 6:30 am when I'm going to work. It's not like the short honk when locking it but 3 long ones. Has anyone experienced this or know why? I thought it might be the remote but it does it with both of them. I have taken the remote apart and put tape over the contacts for the panic button to disable that and it still happens. Not happening all the time is what has me baffled. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thx D

Hi all I redid my terminals last winter and conversion to Military terminals. Now the Batteries are showing their age. Time for replacements. West Coat Central Valley TIA Michael So looking online Amazon offer Optima's for $199 720 amps Batteries plus 750 CCA Group 27 for $149 + 20% off and a $10 mail in rebate. Kind of answers my question. Thinking of selling and getting along wheelbase.

Hi, so to disturb everybody, but anyone could help me to find the little problem with my stop lights? They dont work, I ve changed the bulbs, control the fuse, it-s ok. So I ve no current which arrive to the brake pedal switch? On fuse there is 12,5 volt? How can I do? Thank you for your help

Disabling Factory Alarm Horn Are you tired of the factory alarm horn going off with 3 honks (tamper alert) when unlocking the door or at other inconvenient times? The horn sounds when the central timer module grounds pin 85 of the horn relay. Here is a simple inexpensive remedy to stop the module from sounding the horn. You cut the wire to the module; the horn will still work at the steering wheel horn button but not with the door locks or key fob. You will need a phillips screwdriver, small wire cutters, and a roll of electrical tape. Remove the three phillips screws at the bottom of the pan…

I am looking for the best sport headlight available. I can't afford the RetroFitShop Mini or D2S setup at this time. What are the best sport replacement unit available? TYC, PERDE, Something else from Headlightdepot.com? I will most likely be doing the relay/harness setup found somewhere here to update the wiring. I am looking for the best fit after the best pattern available that is non Morimoto retrofit. What is your experience so far with the best replacements? I currently have the standard 2 bulb setup that doesn't produce much light due to age of the original housings.

Has anybody on here had any luck with the cheap Amazon winches? I just picked up a 12000lbs viper recovery from a company called motoalliance. Looks like it has a decent warranty. I bought it to pull trees up to the road for firewood. We shall see i guess. Ill post an update once i get some use out of it. Merry Christmas everyone.

So in building my truck (getting to building firewall and floor) I'm interested in how much room is needed for the shifter tower (and TC shifter) and gap between the trans and tunnel? Should I place the tunnel flush with the trans as it sits w/o the shifter tower bolted on/ just above the TC shifter bracket top?

Review Monitor Cab Monitor and Rear Trailer Camera Parts list: 50’ roll outdoor Cat-5/Cat-6 cable (Home Depot) 10’ red 18awg 1’ black 18awg 10 ‘split wire loam tubing ¼ diam. 5” color monitor (5” E-KLIN 12-24V car monitor, Amazon) Color camera (E SKY EC170-11, Amazon) 4 pin round trailer wire connector ON/OFF switch, SPST, push or toggle 2 amp fuse Fuse holder Rosin core solder Electrical tape Heat shrink tubing Coaxial cable staples Zip ties 2”x4”x ½”- ¾” plywood or board Flat black spray paint Double sided …

Seeing as how the entire internet can't figure out how to use paintbrush, I took up the challenge and finally made everyone a vacuum diagram. Let me know what you think. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Charts/Vacuum%20Lines.jpg

HI everybody, after abs , I would like to know how to lift the rear of the truck, mine has already rear blocks under the leaf springs ,I would like up more, I ve seen these blocks on web to sell . Do you think I can add new other blocks over and change the U bolts with shocks ?????? And what do I need to change except absorber shocks if I raise the rear of the trucks because I have no idea. I would like to lift about 10-15 cms . Sorry for my little english , but thank you very much for your help!!!! I learn mechanic thanks to you

My truck has had dead pedal since i put it back together after putting new hot rod pump and timbo tps. It threw a p0500 code the other night and i was wanting to reset tps and my parking brake cable broke a few years ago and i never fixed it, so i put a new switch on and still no light. I think it works off ground and when u ground it i should turn light on correct? I had a problem with tach not working awhile back and had cluster worked on and now my high beam light does work all time now. Im wondering if my cluster is messed up and i guess u have to have parking brake light on to reset tps? And if i replace cluster with one out of yard my truck …

I was having problems with my blend door awhile back and it turned out to be the actuator was bad. But i put a controller from junk yard because i was having problems figuring out the problem, but now the ac kicks on when u turn it to face and floor and when u turn it to defrost and floor? I thought the controller was missed up and put my old one back on and it does the same! Is this correct or do i have a problem, i have to either turn it to face or floor for ac not to kick on.

Took my pickup into the local mom and pop shop for a once over and see if they could diagnose my loose steering. Their verdict was ball joints are shot. Trucks has 135k mi and no telling if they’ve ever been changed. After doing some reading it sounds like dodges have a spec for allowable up and down play. You can see how much these move from the wear mark. Does this look out of spec?