2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I replaced the speakers in my truck this weekend and I have the premium sound so I had to remove the amp, I found a link to help out with the wiring. http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4640/kw/ram%20infinity/session/L3RpbWUvMTMxOTg5MjQ3NC9zaWQvbVp4X1NNSGs%3D I hope this helps at least a few people out.

I built a mpg/high idle for my truck a month or so back and I am having a problem and hope that I can get some insight. When I turn on the high idle I get a temp reading on my Scangage 2 of 137 water temp and 31 iat temp. If and when it starts the high idle as soon as it hits 1200RPM it goes to 3 cylinder. I have a 3 cylinder switch that will make the iat read 13 degrees but it makes no difference. This has worked this way except once when the outside temp was below 32 degrees. I tried to have a dodge dealer check this and they said that I have a 12v ( manufacture date is Feb 1998 ). I know that it has been flashed for the high idle buy the PO but he didn't know that it h…

I am down to my last bottle of Valvoline Semi-Synthetic power steering fluid. Can't seem to find anymore. I draw out the power steering fluid in the pump reservoir at each oil change and refill with new just to keep the PS fluid fairly fresh. What are you guys using? Thanks.

Okay, need a little clarification...OEM tire size lists at:245/75/R16 on my b pillar stickerI have 285/75/R16's on the truck and have had them since I got the truck.I went and did it on a calcu-mutilator and it says I go 55.6 mph with my current size compared to going 60 with OEM size.I cannot remember how this correlates to my actual speed and what the speedo says. And believe it or not, 4 areas I go through list all my speeds differently when I pass their speed sign/radars.I get them either saying I'm going 7 over or some say I'am going actual speed or going 3-5 over.Its confusing!IIRC, this should mean I'm going 60mph when my speedo says I'm going 55-56mph, right?

Hey guys! It seems my truck problems are coming in pairs Yesterday when I was driving home, I came to a stop light, and completely stopped. The light was soon to turn green, so I pressed in the clutch, and moved the gear shifter to 2nd... suddenly the truck started to roll and wouldn't stop moving forward! Thankfully the light turned green and I was able to resume driving home. The clutch felt spongy afterward. I then drove around a small parking lot at low speed, coming to a stop, then taking off... and found that sometimes from a dead stop, when I pressed in the clutch pedal, shifted into second, and waited, the truck would randomly starting rolling…

Sorry for the beginner question but I'm not having a lot of luck with the search feature. I'd like to install some gauges - fuel pressure, boost, & EGT. I understand best accuracy is achieved by selecting a gauge where the engine's normal operating range is in the middle of the gauge's range. But I don't know what is the engine's normal operating range for boost & EGT ('99 3500 2wd auto 4.10). The truck is stock now but I may boost things later for MPGs & towing an RV. Next mod after the gauges will be a decent aftermarket lift pump (100gph).As I recall, before the Turbo is where the probe should be installed. On my first gen that required drilling & tapp…

This may be the exception to "there's no such thing as a stupid question" rule, but here it goes. How do you disable the low power daytime headlight feature that come on when you release the ebrake. I have done no investigation to this point, but see that most everyone knows the secret but me.

I noticed last week I had a tiny bit of play in one of my ball joints. I plan to replace all four in the next week or two. I wasn't sure if I would need an alignment afterwards or not.

I took my vacuum pump & power steering pump off as a unit to seal the PS pump reservoir leak. The oil line is leaking where it connects to the vac pump. There is a threaded piece that screws into the pump itself then the oil line connects to that piece. I put oil resistant piece on the threads that screw into the pump. It looks like the leak is where the nut for the oil line threads onto that piece. Am I missing an o-ring or something? It looks like it is supposed to be a mechanical seal with metal surface to metal surface but is is a large leak. Removing the line and making sure everything was clean didn't help. Any ideas on how to stop it?

Hello! I have purchased the normal chrome and black Cummins C grill emblem stick in before. Whenever I purchased it I figured I wouldn’t ever replace it again so I didn’t get the metal, bolt on emblem. Does anyone have a link to where I can purchase the bolt on style Cummins grill badge? I am really looking for a reusable badge now since I wasted my money once already.

Just took about 30 minutes and installed my new driver's seat cushion from Geno's and I wish I had spent the money 50k miles ago. It is SUCH a drastic improvement. No more smashing my tailbone on the rear crossbar with every bump!

My dash has been cracked since I got this old 95 like most are and it never really bothered me because all of my dodges other than the 2005 were cracked. I pulled my pillar pod out over the weekend to paint it and busted a big chunk out of the drivers side putting it back in so I had my buddy order me one. This is a mopar dash and other than the color being off, the fit is perfect. Took about two and a half hours from start to finish and I only had a few screws left over .

I swapped my 1998.5 drivetrain and engine wiring harness into a 2001 1500, all fuses and relays are good, I only have reverse, turns and hazard lights the rest of the lights do not work including dash, tail, running lights and headlights. The high beam indicator on the dash always stays on no matter what. I have ground to all lights just no power any ideas?

So the other problem with same truck (see other thread on rust) ....... is there is NO AC. Its was removed for larger twins/intercooler.So two questions here.1) I assume all I need to hook back up is compressor, condensor, ac radiator at front and lines. Basically just hook all back up ? And then charge and look for leaks.2) As its a closed system. What are the chances that the AC heater core is all rusted and Im going to be pulling the DASH and doing a new heater core etc.

i have recently noticed that when only the 4 wheel drive is engaged that the front end makes a popping sound and feels like it is hopping when i turn to the right or left. Was wondering what could cause this problem.

They are STOCK SOLID. Ideas? Heat? Big hammer isn’t doing it

My power steering pump looses fluid. The front of it is always wet with fluid, and it leaves spots under the truck.Any advise on fixing it?Such as: any special tools, level of difficulty, is there a seal kit? etc.Thanks for any help.John

Hopefully now the truck is a tad more visible and won’t get hit a 3rd time.

Does anyone have a cab wiring harness diagram? I got a new led cargo light and the dang thing wont go off (clear only ) so I need to start tracing wiring to see what's going on... Diagram would be very handy Thanks!

So was crawling around under the truck and saw this... Drivers side Passenger side Dont know how they got this out of whack but how to I adjust them? And where should I adjust them too?