2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I know this has been beat to death over the years but I have a question. I never considered XRF because I thought they were high priced but checking I see they are cheaper than NAPA and OEM Spicer. Are they any good?

I just pulled the entire lower dash out, drilled out all the rivets holding the plastic to the metal sub-frame, removed the plastic and put down a layer of fiberglass on the back side for reinforcement, then riveted it back to the metal subframe. While doing this I started thinking about fabbing up a completely new upper and lower dash to replace the plastic garbage Dodge so graciously blessed us with. Has anyone done something like this? I'm not talking about a bare bones dash you see in a race truck but rather something that looks factory. If I decide to do this I'm heading to the local junk yard to find a cab to use for R&D work.

Need a good cheaper bumper. It's only a matter of Time before I hit a deer on my New commute route. Any recommendations?

Hey guys. I am finally getting around to finishing up installing a couple extra sets of driving lights. I have some 50w spot beams that I wired to their own switch and they work great. I am trying to finish up the 100w spot beams now. I have them all wired with a relay system, I just need a power source to trigger the relay. The problem is I would really like them to just come on with the high beams. After taking a step back and checking out some wiring diagrams, I realized that the whole headlight system is based on a ground switching circuit. This wont really work with my wiring set up I have at the moment. Is there anywhere in the system that I could find a g…

Leaving work today my backup lights decided to turn on for the first time since I've owned the truck and not shut off the entire drive home. I unplugged all the wires from the transmission, pulled the fuse for the backup lights and they still remained on, so I just pulled the bulbs out. After a quick interwebs search it looks as if the neutral safety switch is bad, so I got one coming for tomorrow at the parts store. I could see if the switch was bad the lights not coming on in reverse, which I assume was the reason they never worked before. But what would cause them to come on all of a sudden and not go out even after pulling the fuse?

The other night installed a manual temp gauge and was under the dash running the line to the motor. I bumped somthing or somthing happened. I seen my lights flicker on my radio. I then pulled my head light switch out and bam absolutely nothing works. No power at all in my fuse box. Wiring diagrams would be a big help. The harness are shortly to say the keast

Don't kill me but I have a dodge 1500 318 180k and I am have brake issues. When you go to hit the brakes they are hard as hell and you have to stand on them to get stopped. Kinda looked it over today the rubber under the brake lid was very stretched out I couldn't get it back in so I will have to get a new lid plus the fluid was Black.not sure what to start with but I not going to drive it until I get it figured out. Any help would be greatly appreciated

So I hear some people running atf+4 for power steering fluid has done them well then others harshly say not to use it. Well I can not find any synthetic power steering fluid around here and I'm wanting to flush the system this weekend. I want to know for sure the difference between the two and pros/cons of using either. I just installed a new redhead steering box moog pitman arm and tierod and the seal is already leaking on the main output shaft....lmao...within 150 miles

2001 2500. Has a leak since new. Dodge had it in 12 times in the first 5 years. I finally gave in and got a charge kit. Back then it needed a chg every 6 mos. Now it is up to every 30 days. Tried some canned stop leak. Tried dye and black light. finding nothing. Is there a hi teck sniffer leak detector that could be rented? Can not see into the interior ac compartment. How likely the leak to be in there? Checked for dye around compressor and all connectors and every line except the wrapped lines. Any help?

My 2001 2500 2wd is starting to wander. I continually have to steer right then left to hold it straight down the road. Had it into my alignment shop. All specs are ok. I thought about adding caster, but at spec 3 1/2 degree positive already they said that was enough. I am used to 1.5 to 2 degree with the dana 4wd axle. As I said this is 2wd and all front end components except steering box have under 25 k miles on them. Steering sector box? Truck has 175 k on it and I live 1 mile down a washboard road.

long time looker, first time poster. Kinda at my wits end. Installed an air dog 150 a couple months ago. The wiring in the truck from the previous owner was kinda messed up but I finally figured out the wires for the fuel pump to kick it on. So I've checked those and everything else, fuse, relay and grounds. And it won't kick on when I turn the key on. Truck runs but seems like it's getting lack of fuel. Especially on start up. Idles up and down and up and down. And I just changed the filters so I know that has nothing to do with it. Lights have also been flickering at night and voltage jumping around alittle, not sure if that's related. But any help would be appreciated.

Ever since I have owned my truck it has had this terrible "clunk" right under the drivers side foot rest. Some days it made me mad enough to want to drive the truck off a cliff. I have replaced EVERY part under the front of the truck more than once and I still have had this clunk. I had all but given up hope of ever fixing it. When I first felt it I thought " must need control arms" well I replaced them once, still had the issue, then I replaced them again " just because" Ball joints, steering etc etc etc........ Anyways fast forward to a month ago, I noticed that the mounting holes for the control arms were ovaled out, so I welded in some washe…

I'm finally getting my ABS module replaced and getting rid of the abs brake light being on. Do I need to disconnect my Comp for the dealer to reflash/vin code the ABS module?

I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long over due but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors. So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both. Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety. Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lif…

Could someone look up the fuse location for me. I need to know where the fuse is for the trailer running lights. I've still got taillights on the truck and all work fine. No running lights on the trailer. I've got turn and brakes on the trailer. I'm in the field and don't have my books with me.

I may not explain this good but here goes. I need to test the alt for feed back, my apps or something is causing it to feel like its running out of fuel. It doesn't cut out hard, it has that running out of fuel feel to it. The more you mash the pedal no help its dead, let it all the way up then start back into it and it will either accelerate or you have to let it up again then it will run ok. It may run all day and never do it again or it has done it 1/2 dozen times. No codes, well it has a 1693 but nothing in there. I have put three diff. apps on and they all do the same. Fuel filters are clean, fuel pressure is 15. I just cant find the write up. Thanks

Ok. Everyone knows I just replaced my front two ABS sensors. Here is what happening now. Start up roll out slow speeds less than 40 MPH the ABS and BRAKE lights remains off. Once I exceed 40 MPH they pop back on. I can pull over shut off the truck start up again and start rolling out and the light reset again. Once over 40 MPH it trips again. My old sensors works fine but had been broken in the leads. I solder and shrink tube then a few times and always was able to get the light back out. As for the rear speed sensor it dead on with my Garmin GPS so I really doubt I got a bad rear sensor.

Am tired.... and its getting worse and worse of fiddling with the damm plastic lenses on the headlights on my 2002 2500 truck. Clean them off and they look great and I can actually see at night, then another 2-3 months later and the damm plastic gets hazy again and its time to do it over again. Was chatting with a guy on CL and he mentioned upgrading the truck to something like the 2005 style of headlights and be done with these older headlights. Anyone else do anything like this? Thx, FT

My speedo , Tach , amp and temp gauges ,brake and air bag light all quit working at same time. Oil pressure and fuel gauge still work .

I have seen a few trucks with 2 holes drilled in the exhaust manifold and one always has a copper loop like a still. What is it? Why? You can see it here: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/482-holset-he351ve-install-retrofit-2nd-gen-cummins