2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

I just got a southbend dual disk installed in my truck with southbend hydraulics. After talking to some guys about injectors and reading on here and various other forums I decided to go with a set of DAP new bosch 125hp SACs. I would like to know which turbo size would be better to run for this amount of fuel. I was going to go with small twins but after my other truck got totalled, the clutch job, and buying a 1998 jeep to replace the totalled truck, I'm getting short on cash so I'm sticking with a single. Budgeting around 1,500 for turbo and downpipe. I've decided on a borg warner SX-E 57/65/12or14 61/65/14 or a 62/68/12or14. I know that I could probably go bigger wit…

Hello guys, im new to the forum. Im looking for a way to increase mpgs on a cummins swapped f250 24v. Stock engine other than 4 inch exhaust and quadzilla v2. Truck is on 37s and has 4:10 gears. Looking for help witg tuning parameters

I dont like to wax and dont think those waxes mixed in with the wash are much good. I usually wash with dawn dish soap about once a year. Waxing a different matter. Paint still looks good imo. Question, these things getting up in years, when does paint start to come off. I sometimes see 85- 90's degrees for about 1 month max. No paint peeling and no rust at present time. How often do you wax the paint?

So having owned my ‘99 for a little over two months and towing my tractor a few times I think I have decided to see if I can upgrade some things to get some more power. I am as I think that would satisfy my needs. Looking at 7X.009 SAC injectors, a turbo, gauges, and a tuner of some kind to manage smoke and heat. Need some recommendations on a turbo and tuner. Thinking about this Turbo as a direct replacement. For the tuner: either an Edge Comp or the Quadzilla Iquad. Really don’t have the experience to create my own tunes and need more knowledge of diesel theory to be able to get the most out of a tuner so leaning towards somethin…

Something I figured out the other day. I had started my truck cold after doing a valve adjustment and the grid heater was cycling in and out as normal. Then I placed my hand on the back of the alternator near the diode plate and Wow! that thing gets hot. Even with the Quadzilla bumping up the idle to 1,200 RPM with its own high idle the draw of the grid heater is considerable. I'm starting to think it might a be a good suggestion to replace my grid heater here in the future and see if the diode heat is reduced.

I'm looking for an aftermarket fuel pressure sensor that I can use that would be compatible with my edge juice w/ attitude. I've found them on Amazon.com but want to pick one up at AutoZone so if I have any issues I can return it. Anyone have any part numbers? This is the Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RCPDPRQ?ref_=pe_344980_242109030_em_1p_3_ti&redirect=true&pldnSite=1

01 4x4 looking at sxe 62/68/12 dap 150s quad adren. current fass 150,4in ex, built auto tripple disc low stall conv,billet input 354 rear 285 tires

Sorry if the title doesnt make sense Im wondering if its possible to swap from the engine mounted APPS to the 3rd gen style pedal. Both are 6 pin connectors. And honestly i hate that anytime i wanna do something to the drivers side of the engine im running into the sensor being right there in my way. The only thing that would pose an issue would be the TV cable but Im sure theres a way around that.. Just food for thought.

HELP! lol Seriously though. I tried the ME#### "Large injector emissions tune" and she still smokes a bit too much free revving off idle on PL1 Truck must go through the stupid diesel snap test which involves them putting a probe in the exhaust and then proceeding to put the pedal to the metal from idle till it reaches 2k RPM, then letting off till it settles back at idle, and repeating 5 more times (basically no load free-revving it. they don't dyno them here). If at any point it blows out more than 30% opacity it fails. Half the time they won't let the driver do the snap test, they get in and do it...so being lighter on…

Hey guy last night while on the way home I was fooling around with a duramax and suddenly my trucks engine died and I had to pull over off the highway. Still had power to all lights all my gauges and everything. My fuel PSI went to 0 at that time my pressure sensor is about 6 inches from going into the VP and my fass 150 is less than a year old. Idk how it would fail but I’m not sure what the issue is or what could have caused it. Anybody have an idea? I’ve loosedned injector lines 1-3-5 and have fuel squirting out when trying to fire. Any help would be great especially with the work week starting tomorrow!

I have been having alot of problems with my Quad that I bought 3 weeks ago. First I got the p0237 code. I replaced the map sensor. Then I got the p0236 code. I was checking all of the voltage to and from the Quad to see what could possibly causing my issues. Everything has proper voltage except the red/black wire going from the Quad down through the boost fooler to the map. Even on the inside, on the board, no voltage which if i remember correctly should be 5v. Would this be causing the p0236 code? If so is it fixable on my end or is it possible that I was sent a Quadzilla with a bad board?

so the 3rd brake light seal finally gave up and shrunk to the point it was allowing water in. so time to replace got the neoprene gasket on ebay, good price. it fits perfect and as you can see its really thick (the old one was flat and dlush with the plastic housing)

99 24 valve starts ok cold (most days). Longer than normal crank time (45-90 seconds) when warm/hot. Sometimes won't start until 2-3 hours. Has no codes. Has new reman vp44 from Thoroughbred diesel & new crank sensor. Cleaned all grounds, installed a clear fuel line to ip to verify no air. Has 20 lb pressure to vp44. I am out of ideas.............PLEASE HELP.

I'm trying something different. I'm straying my calculation a bit. I know that the Hankook 245's are the same weight capacity as the 235's. Now I'm going to keep the offset from front to back but I'm going to rise +10 PSI to both axles. So my front is 70 PSI and the rear is 50 PSI. I'm mostly highway miles right now but I've had strange wear patterns in the past running 60 PSI front and 40 PSI in the rears. It would feather or cup the edges of the tires. When the winter weather and road conditions come I might drop back to get the bite for traction purpose. With the pressures this high I've notice my contact patch is much smaller for sure.

I'm driving a 24 valve with a Blue Chip Special X VP44 that has the timing slightly advanced to give it 22 additional HP. I also have a set of 75 HP injectors from Dynamite Diesel. They had to be readjusted to reduce smoke. I would like to use them but I need a way to control the smoke or fuel. I see a lot of members are using programmers or tuners for this reason. I'm not trying make a hot rod out of it just looking for a little more performance especially at lower speeds. With the timing advanced I have been told I can't use a tuner that has the capability to advance timing any more than it already is. I don't think with the 75 HP injectors I am going overboard and need…

Finally got around to disassembling my old alternator. I believe this is the factory original one. Unfortunately I stripped out 2 of the 4 screw heads holding the diodes in! Any tips for stripped screws? Anyways, @Mopar1973Man The diodes you sell...do they fit in all Denso alternators found on 94-02 trucks? I have a 98.5, which from the looks of it, is the same as a 12 valve alternator. It doesn't have that plug on the back (see photo from FSM).

So I need a little help with a fuel pressure gauge install. I am looking to get a Isspro electric gague and a Vulcan line kit. I know I need a snubber as well. But how do I go about hooking it up to my vp44 test port? Snubber first or after the Vulcan line? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

Idling in the parki g lot today and I notice 0 FP. So I dig into it and no blown fuse. Plug another relay in and nothing, hot wire the pump nothing. I have power to the pump and the ECM is triggering the relay like it should but the pump is dead. The only thing I did not do is open the cover over the gear rotor to see if something got in there. Even if something was in there the pump is not even trying to run. Any suggestions?

Just a quick question here. What rpm do you guys typically shift gears at?

My name is Gage I have a 2002 24 valve 5.9 I just replaced the vp44 injection pump fuel filter and in tank fuel pump and I'm getting no power to the fuel pump just needing help trying to figure it out the check engine light is on no fuel is being moved at all we checked the relays and fuses everything seems to be fine please lmk tank you