2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

Need more power on the low end how do I achieve that fuel plate is out

I was going to revive an old thread on my issues but it seems ther are more than one. So I will give the Readers Digest version. About 4years ago I started having engine surging problems. It would surge about 3% to 5% and was annoying and would set a couple of apps codes. But the problem got worse and would surge upwards of 14%. When it would go this far it would soon trip an apps code and would dead pedal. Always recovered, though it would take a few minutes. So I broke down and made my electrically challenged arse do some diagnostics on the apps and everything pointed to the sensor being bad. I bought a cheap one off of EBay installed and sure enough no su…

What is causing thi, s passenger battery was unhooked till shop hooked it back up now it’s doing this causing check engine and gen light to come on and tach and speedo to freak out

I'm trying to get the lower egts on my 99 dodge 24 valve nv4500. I have the banks monster ram, pusher 3.5 inch hot side inter-cooler hose, bhaf air filter, fass 95gph fuel pump, straight piped exhaust, edge ez tuning set on 2 setting. I am trying to get better fuel millage, i have never pulled anything with it. i travel at 65 to work and my egts are about 600 to 630, how can i get them lower, thanks

Just replaced vp44 because I install quadzilla adrenaline and 2 days later I started truck and no power. Truck wouldn't make more than 5 psi boost. Everyone said it was vp44. But now truck is still the same. I was making 25psi without tuner. I have newer map sensor and I reset apps. Please help...... I am well versed with a voltage meter.

What’s would cause poor low end performance truck needs quarter throttle to start no smoke or cutting out truck has #0 fuel plate could it be the ofv

I swapped my stock injectors for a set of DAP 7x.013's last week. Checked the oil level before I started it up for the first time and it was midway between the lines on the dipstick. I ran the truck for a day and checked the oil again and it was about 3/8" above the top line. So I'm definitely getting fuel in the oil. I pulled the valve cover and ran it and saw nothing. It was a bit tough to get down to each injector and inspect closely because of the fan blowing in my eyes, but from out of the fan wash area, I couldn't see a thing leaking. I never had fuel in the oil before this, so it was definitely something related to the injector swap. Bad injector? Do I need to get …

Just as the title suggests. What tools do you keep in your truck 24/7? My list is ever changing but right now I have: Tarp Ratchet straps Stretch Net Vice Grip Claw Hammer Pry bar Belt tensioner tool (and belt) Small ratchet kit Adjustable wrench Channel lock pliers Screwdrivers Zip ties Tow strap Bottle jack I can't even begin to tell you how many times I have used all of these tools for everything conceivable and some things I never imagined. What do you keep in your truck?

The bobbing when i come off throttle and truck is trying to idle is getting worse with the increased temperature outside and when i have my ac on when it revs up it blows quite a bit of smoke out. It stops when i get to a speed less than about 10mph. Question is could i break the vss line momentarily or ground it out to trick the ecm that i stopped and return to a normal idle?

Just want to say thanks in advance. This is my first post on here but have been a member for a while now. But I’m looking for some help and I have not tried searching all that much as my setup is different than most. For some reason I can’t get any better than 13mpg out of my truck. Truck info is in my sig. I am running 35x12.50 Toyo Mts on 20x10 Fuels. It has 3.55 gearing too. I am running the dd tune that’s for trucks with 50-150hp injectors but I have changed a couple things on it. Idk if it’s just the way things are setup but I hardly have any turbo lag and my truck runs good and hard but like I said I can’t for the life of me squeeze out any more than 13mpg. The truc…

Well my last order was to order some filter from Vulcan Performance. I got a BHAF and a few fuel filters for the AirDog. Eric being the nice guy asked me "How are my intercooler boots doing?" I told him there stock boots yet and no problems. He asked if I wanted to try a set of his VP "VulCan Performance" boots... I said why not...As for installing them. Not that is a good challenge... I used a good amount of WD40 and lubed them up to slide them over the fittings. So since they are thicker boots they don't flex like the old stockers. So you got to slide them over the far enough so you slide back over the mating fitting. Once again keep them lubed up so they slide for you.…

I just have a quick question iam installing mechanical FPG and i just want to know if i have do do both snubber valve and neddle valve or just one be good enough ? thank you

I'm getting ready for a 5200+ mile trip and with just over 100K miles on the clock I've been thinking about replacing my injectors when I do the valve adjustment before I go. I was looking at Bosch 275's when I came across these on E-bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Dodge-Cummins-RV275-Performance-Injectors-for-98-5-02-24-VALVE-5-9L/161397044745?hash=item2594037609:g:KBQAAOSwxH1T8Kjl&vxp=mtr They're made/supplied by Sundieselsystems http://sundieselsystems.com/performance-products/performance-injectors/ Has anyone had any experience with this brand of injectors?

Is there really valuable parts I would want to consider pulling of a 99 gas model before owner has it towed away, without starting my own junk yard? ? In my area parts not that easy to find sometimes. (Took me couple months to find a fuel tank) Body parts...nothing without minor dents. Interior...shot. Any parts that are rare I should consider?

I have a small leak on injector line #6 rite where it connects to the injector tube. It looks like the threads are leaking a small amout. But enough that when it sits for a bit it usually doesnt start first time. Like it has to prime itself again, but starts no problem an runs fine after that. Im looking to replace the line soon. Just wondering if anyone has tried some thread sealer tape to quick fix the problem?! Just wondering if its worth the time to do the quick fix or if it even works

After 340k miles about it is time for some new battery cables the old one are cracked, yellowing and corroded. After hunting around I found the best bang for the buck was buying parts and pieces from multiple suppliers and create my own cables. Now I'm waiting for the last of the one ought cable to get here to get two feet in but as it sits I have just under 160 dollars spent and this is what I got. A cable repair kit with crimping tool http://www.fostertruck.com/larryb-s-battery-cable-repair-kit-for-dodge-cummins-1994-2009.html 10' of 2 ought red motor lead cable with SAE stamped 25' of 1 ought motor lead cable black SAE stamped 25' of 1 ought m…

Looks like this BD third gen track bar conversion bracket has cracked pretty good after just two years of me driving on the road. I contacted them and they say it doesn't look like their bracket & to send more pics, so I did. This was installed by Five R Trucks in Colorado Springs, CO after my track bar bit the dust in a pot hole the wife managed to run through. That's when I really learned about these good ol dodges.

I have an 02 HO/6 speed with 3.54 gearing. I am looking for better towing performance and economy. What is the best way to get there? I was looking at a Quad XZT+ and a set of RV275 injectors. I don't want to begin chasing the next parts needed to make the new parts work. Still on the stock clutch. That will be upgraded for a good towing/DD version when needed. The XZT and RVs is similar to an iQuad. Does the iQuad fit the bill for what I am looking for? I don't want to change the turbo now because of a new set of injectors or a tuner. Looking for a good update but not crazy requiring other supporting upgrades. If I want to go fast I have another ride that fills tha…

I had my 2001 3500 with Edge comp box an Smarty S03 stack. Always had smarty on lvl9 an comp box on 5x5. Loved it! Truck loved it! Had to remove vp44 to do the tappet cover gasket an damaged the vp44 case installing it back in. Took the pump in to get it fixed an figured to get it rebuilt while its out. An now its tripped some timming code an killd my new vp44 on same settings i had for years before on old pump. Any ideas why this combo would do this to new/rebuilt vp44. The shop that rebuilt it fixed the pump again under warranty an had no answers for me why it would do that. Just scared to do that setup again an have to go thru all that work again pulling pump.

Looking for some of your opinions on matching injectors and turbo for moderate to heavy towing. I tow alot at 10-15k and occasionally 15-20k mostly hay and cattle. I have done a fair amount of research on this topic but haven't come to a decision yet. I've heard good things about the BW screaming eagle turbos. Im considering 100 hp dap injectors. I'm still running the stock turbo and injectors at 100k miles. I have to pull the ex manifold because the previous owner broke a drill bit off trying to install the pyro. Any opinions on a replacement manifold? 2001 6spd Thanks for your help/opinions