Utility Trailers & Recreational Vehicles (RV's)

So slow you can't find the leak but still need to put in more air every two weeks?Maybe that's why they want to sell the on board compressor too:shrug:

If your looking for a solar deal, this might be it. Prices good for today only http://www.homedepot.com/SpecialBuy/SpecialBuyOfTheDay

I picked up some 5000 k axles for my car hauler, swapping out the 3500 k axles. The deal is that the new ones are to narrow and I am hoping to extend them. I have a few options, one is to cut them in center and put a sleeve inside,or box the outside with a larger diameter pipe. Or option two is too cut the spindles out of new axles and weld them to a new pipe cut to the proper length I need to fit the trailer. being careful for a true alignment when welding on the spindles, also I know that some trailer axles are cambered and if I use new pipe I will not have a camber in the axle, so dont know if this is a good option or not. Or option three (which would be the most expen…

I am a bit lost... my last one (back before the dawn of time) had a pilot light! The fridge works fine on AC. Refused to start on propane. Gives a 'F' code (as in U R F-ed). I was able to "fire it up" with a grill lighter... and it kept cold for 24-48 hours. Once I saw a C before the F codes. When trying to start on propane I can hear a clicking at the back in the access hatch. Does anybody know these units?

Ok...On my last outing I seem to be having a problem with the main power lead coming into the RV. What is happening I was laying on the couch and watching TV (Small black and white TV) off my inverter which barely drawing 1.8 Amps and MoparMom would run a little water and the voltage would fall fast. Flip on a light volt would fall. Turn everything off and the volt meter shows low 12's... But just a few lights with drop in below 10 Volts in a short time. So I'm assuming there is still a weak connection between the batteries and the fuse panel since everything seems affected by it.

This is a future mod I'd like to do when spare fund are available. I'm really getting tired of packing along all kinds of lumber and blocks for the trailer tongues. I've seen some industrial trailers with a handy drop foot then you don't need to find a round of firewood or large wood block to place under the jack to unhitch. Seem like I'm going through wood blocks fast because they are left on the ground to absorb moisture and rot. So I found a handy trailer tongue jack that will lift my RV to my BigTex without a wood block on the ground. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/etrailer/TJDA-5000S.html

I have been reading quite a bit about different converters and charge rates, specifically some claims that PD's seem to drop off earlier than other brands. That is not what I have noticed on my setup, so I figured I would test mine from 50% SOC and take some notes. The batteries are a pair of Lifeline AGM GPL-6CT 300AH 6V's, which where new this spring. The converter is a Progressive Dynamics PD4655 that was new in 2013. I got the batteries drained down to an approx 50% SOC (12.21V after sitting disconnected for ~1 hour). I was plugged into a 30A RV circuit on my house, with an input AC voltage of 118.2±0.5V thru-out the test. I took readings every 1 minute for …

I almost wonder if I should regret not buying this hitch! :banghead: http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3200--ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-rail-version.aspx ...and its so cheap, too!

All, I am in the market for a new enclosed car / cargo hauler trailer. I need to buy one before my next move in the spring. I will start by saying that I tow very slow and gentle. I am not one of those 80mph guys with a trailer. I am looking for something fairly large >24ft body but not unmanageable. I am limiting myself to bumper pull for this trailer. The trailer will stay on roads, but will see some dirt roads. I want something stout, ramp gate, able to fill with crap or a heavy old Chrysler and a bunch of tools and parts without worrying about the frame, axles, or whatever. 8 lug axles would be nice, and the wheels would interchange with most …

Yes I screwed up...With the sudden change of weather and cold temperatures I winterized the RV in a hurry and didn't check everything out. I did drain all the lines, tanks (water, black, greys, and water heater). But what I forget to do is check that all accessories where OFF before plugging back in the RV to 120 VAC power again so there the water heater sat running empty for over 24 hours and lucky enough nothing got hot enough to cause a fire nor did it seem to burn out the element. It was still warm to the touch on the tank. So I'll assume the water heater is not damaged for now and find out in the spring of the year. When your done winterizing make sure everything is …

Got an issue with my class a. New VP44 and FASS. I've had some wiring gremlins. RV sits on the coast of CA so there has been some corrosion in wiring from moist air. The point I'm at now the RV will start up, run for a little while and die. If I turn the key off for a minute or so and turn back on all is OK. If when the engine dies I automatically try to turn key off and back on the "Wait to Start" does not come on and battery gauge show's nothing. One set of batteries main power source seemed to have a short in it and would cut the RV out if I grabbed it. Grid heater relay seemed to get stuck on while troubleshooting a no …

I've been thinking for some time a TPM system sounds like a good idea, especially one with heat sensing. I wondered which system, the inside wheel or valve stem cap was better, and what brands have been the easiest to setup and use and is most dependable. I tried a thread search but couldn't find anything but I may not have done it right either. Anyway thanks for the ideas.

I was off on our annual rendezvous re-enacting camp trip. We got back after supper last night... we stopped at TGI Fridays resturant on the way home. I really needed the break from driving. The truck/trailer towed nicely going up... it was a "a female dog" driving home. 3 hours of white knuckle driving back from Western Mass Bershires. Moderate winds & passing Trailer Trucks would blow me all over the road. I think it was the weight shift as a result of empty fresh water tanks VS filled dirty water tanks. I think the fresh water is 100 gallons in 2 tanks over the axles. I dumped the grey water in the field. I don't know what the grey water/black water caps are.…

Hello, I have to rebuild the engine in my 2002 Zetor 6341 Super with a Z7703 engine. I blew the head gasket on the #4 last week. Pulled it down to put a gasket in it and the piston scuffed the sleeve and stuck the rings. I'm just waiting for my inframe rebuild kit. Has anyone on here rebuilt one of these engines before? Are the sleeves hard to pull?

I have an '01 dually with the factory hitch setup on it. I am curious, what size pin did this take in the receiver originally? The hole on mine is egg shaped and larger than the 5/8" pin I normally use. I can take some pics if needed. I am probably going to have to buy a new shank already since this truck sits much higher than the suburban I used to pull the camper with. I'm hoping I don't need to replace the hitch right away as well. We don't usually go far with the camper maybe one or two trips a year no more than maybe 60 miles round trip. Eventually we will venture further but for now I just need to make it safe.

I did a thread search but couldn't find anything. I am thinking about a two camera setup for my hitch and the rear of our bumper pull toy hauler with a switchable screen so I can switch camera inputs. A year or so back when I looked the wireless systems seem to have had reception limits the wired ones didn't have. Any of you that have one type or other I'm interested in hearing what you have, how its working for you and what did it cost installed.

How do you deal with humidity and condensation in winter? Do you have a dehumidifier? I think Dripley uses his Fiver in winter. Also what hitch for the truck is a go to brand and type. I would like to get the best, maybe easier to use. T.I.A. If I do this I want one about like IBMobile has. It's not too huge

Anyone need a 14" camper vent? I bought it for my camper thinking it would fit, but my camper has a smaller 9" vent. $35 shipped?

Okay so I stopped by a scale here at work and played around with some of the weights with and without the W/D setup. Overall I am happy where it sits. It tows excellent very smooth, stable, and no sway or porpoising. As with anything, I may be overlooking something. So input is appreciated. The weight's are very close to what I normally see on DOT scales. I didn't have the family, and I got out of the truck for all the weights so the FAW is about 300lbs lower than normal. The scale I used today also wasn't dead level approaching and leaving, so I would assume ±100 lbs is accurate. Like I said, very close to normal weight on the trailer and rear axle, just a little light u…

While getting my 5er ready for the up coming trip to Catfish Junction I found the AC shroud cracked just about beyond repair and in need of replacement. It has already been partially fiberglassed once and to repair it would coast me as much in matting and resin as it would to replace it. The AC is a Dometic Duo-Therm Brisk Air ,new style, 13500btu. I have found three suppliers of this shroud: 1 Camping World, 2 Icon Direct (thru Amazon), and 3 Dometic ( thru Amazon). My question is: 1 has anyone replaced the shroud on their AC unit, 2 who did you buy it from, and 3 what was the quality of the replacement shroud?