Thought id get some input quick. Im going this weekend to pick up a 1998 24V truck that dont currently run. I dont have gauges yet and im not sure i should tow that heavy beast home? Its a 2 hr drive one way with a few good hills in between. Also i will be parting the truck out. If  anyone has requests let me know.

I have a combo of digital and analog gauges. 

 

I have EGT/Boost/Fuel Pressure on the dash, Oil Pressure by the gauge cluster and my MM3 on the A-pillar. 

 

The MM3 is nice as it shows me things that the analog gauges don't, such as rail pressure, load, a better ECT, and IAT's. I also have a post turbo pyro on there. 

 

Analog is better for the quick glance at important things, as digital takes more time to digest. 

18 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I wonder if it can read our goofy MAP sensor correctly? Even the Quadzilla is close but not absolute on the mark. 

 

It all depends on how it's reported. 

 

The OBDII signal is probably pisa, not psig so the the UG or Quad have to convert it. Some convert it by just subtracting 14.7, which works well for guys at sea level. Some subtract the ambient pressure, which will be close to a boost gauge but still different. 

Here us another option. Very readable. Much better than the picture shows. Got a good deal on a 3 gauge set with the pod from vulcan.

Just now, dripley said:

Here us another option. Very readable. Much better than the picture shows. Got a good deal on a 3 gauge set with the pod from vulcan.

 

I had a-pillar gauges and they blocked too much of the view, so I switched to a dash mount and couldn't be happier. 

 

I've also had a steering column mount and it didn't last long, neither did the triple by the rear-view mirror.

 

So I've pretty much tried them all and the triple dash is the least obtrusive, easiest to read, and cleanest looking IMHO. 

On 10/21/2018 at 6:34 PM, Towrigdually said:

For the nv5600 guys, for awhile Cody at super stick transmissions apparently has been running 50w without problems in multiple transmissions. Might try it myself on the next change. 

 

doesn't have a webpsge, but you can look them up on facebook. 

My decision to try the 50/50 mix of Amsoil MTF and SAE 50 was based on a call to Cody at Super Stick.  That and this month's Diesel Power Magazine has a Q&A section question about this very issue and they suggested 1 quart of Amsoil MTF with SAE 50 synthetic as a good NV5600 lubricant fill.  

 

Even at 50/50 the shifts are a bit stiff when it is cold when first starting out so after starting the engine, I place the transfer case in neutral and put the transmission in 3rd or 4th gear with the clutch out and let it idle to help warm up the lubricant in the transmission before driving off.  This seems to help lessen the stiff shifting which is not all that bad. It is more like a very slow shift.  If I just lightly hold the shifter in the gear I want it eventually goes in gear smoothly........just DON'T rush it or force it.  

 

In the phone conversation I had with Cody at Super Stick, he said that he has been evolving (my words not his) on trying various transmission lubricants and currently he likes the Redline 75W80 for the NV5600.  I will be trying this lube in the wife's truck.  

10 minutes ago, LiveOak said:

My decision to try the 50/50 mix of Amsoil MTF and SAE 50 was based on a call to Cody at Super Stick.  That and this month's Diesel Power Magazine has a Q&A section question about this very issue and they suggested 1 quart of Amsoil MTF with SAE 50 synthetic as a good NV5600 lubricant fill.  

 

Even at 50/50 the shifts are a bit stiff when it is cold when first starting out so after starting the engine, I place the transfer case in neutral and put the transmission in 3rd or 4th gear with the clutch out and let it idle to help warm up the lubricant in the transmission before driving off.  This seems to help lessen the stiff shifting which is not all that bad. It is more like a very slow shift.  If I just lightly hold the shifter in the gear I want it eventually goes in gear smoothly........just DON'T rush it or force it.  

 

In the phone conversation I had with Cody at Super Stick, he said that he has been evolving (my words not his) on trying various transmission lubricants and currently he likes the Redline 75W80 for the NV5600.  I will be trying this lube in the wife's truck.  

Wrong thread??

2 hours ago, dripley said:

Here us another option. Very readable. Much better than the picture shows. Got a good deal on a 3 gauge set with the pod from vulcan.

 

Would that mount still work with a dash mat?

2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I have a combo of digital and analog gauges. 

 

I have EGT/Boost/Fuel Pressure on the dash, Oil Pressure by the gauge cluster and my MM3 on the A-pillar. 

 

The MM3 is nice as it shows me things that the analog gauges don't, such as rail pressure, load, a better ECT, and IAT's. I also have a post turbo pyro on there. 

 

Analog is better for the quick glance at important things, as digital takes more time to digest. 

 

It all depends on how it's reported. 

 

The OBDII signal is probably pisa, not psig so the the UG or Quad have to convert it. Some convert it by just subtracting 14.7, which works well for guys at sea level. Some subtract the ambient pressure, which will be close to a boost gauge but still different. 

 

Idle MAP reading is 28.6 at idle and maxed out at 37.3 which is only 8 to 9 PSI of boost. Needs more than minus 14.7... Lol...

31 minutes ago, notlimah said:

 

Would that mount still work with a dash mat?

I dont see why not. I have all the wiring run at the windsheild towards the driver side then down into the backof the dash. Could not make my self drill a hole in the new dash pad.

24 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Idle MAP reading is 28.6 at idle and maxed out at 37.3 which is only 8 to 9 PSI of boost. Needs more than minus 14.7... Lol...

 

Interesting. 

SCII can't decipher the ECM reading for whatever reason.  But the late model ECMs do have barometric pressure sensors, so they can report in psig across the data connector. Which the SCII obviously doesn't connect to.

 

@Me78569 explained to me a while back why the information across the OBDII is jacked up, but i've forgotten.

Edited November 20, 20186 yr by trreed

boost fooling, the ecm only sees a max of 16 psi.  

the baro reading on 2nd gens is not reliable truck to truck, same as calculated engine load.....real PITA  

When I first purchased my truck I didn't have any gauges at all, am I confident I overheated the turbo, yes I am no doubt. 

But, now that I have gauges I know i can put any weight I want behind and as long as I stay in 5th and wrap it up, even to 2500rpm, it'll stay cool for the most part. Even though I usually run 60 at 2200 rpm if I remember from back then. 

Now doing this for steep grades for long periods of time, it'll warm up. just ease off the throttle little by little till you gotta downshift. 

And just be ready to turn on defrost heat on full when she gets warm for those stupid long grades. 

9 hours ago, Towrigdually said:

And just be ready to turn on defrost heat on full when she gets warm for those stupid long grades. 

 

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly. 

9 hours ago, Towrigdually said:

And just be ready to turn on defrost heat on full when she gets warm for those stupid long grades. 

 

7 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly. 

 

I totally agree. Most likely the face of the radiator is plugged with oil or mud. Then fan clutch is not locking fully. Poor thermostat function or no fully opening. Rare but broken water pump blades.

7 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly. 

 

It most likely is, but my only rebutle will be that I don't like to slow down when towing uphill. When I do slow down, I don't need it. so it's rare that I do use it, but sometimes I'd rather just turn on heat than downshift. 

1 minute ago, Towrigdually said:

 

It most likely is, but my only rebutle will be that I don't like to slow down when towing uphill. When I do slow down, I don't need it. so it's rare that I do use it, but sometimes I'd rather just turn on heat than downshift. 

 

Can't say I slow down often either, and even on 100°+ days on long grades my coolant doesn't get above 211° at WOT for miles. That's with more than 150 additional rwhp. 

31 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly. 

I like to use all my radiators    

10 hours ago, Towrigdually said:

And just be ready to turn on defrost heat on full when she gets warm for those stupid long grades. 

I had the same problem a few years ago.  I flushed the coolant and pulled the radiator and found it was caked with oil/grime and everything else. I soaked it in degreaser and sprayed it off with a pressure washer and it was good after that.  Easy fix.  If your truck is overheating on steep climbs now it will only get worse and eventually it will leave you stranded. 

1 hour ago, Hawkez said:

I had the same problem a few years ago.  I flushed the coolant and pulled the radiator and found it was caked with oil/grime and everything else. I soaked it in degreaser and sprayed it off with a pressure washer and it was good after that.  Easy fix.  If your truck is overheating on steep climbs now it will only get worse and eventually it will leave you stranded. 

 

Coolant is clean just did a flush when the new head gasket was installed, radiator is newer and clean, water pump is brand new with thermostat and the fan clutch is always locked due to a personal mod. (Because the fan clutch failed)

If I run the truck unloaded Its fine. the only time it gets hot is when the gooseneck is overloaded. 

6 hours ago, AH64ID said:

 

That sounds more like a band aid for a cooling system that isn't working properly. 

 

Yes and no, with modified power the system is not up to the task, brand new. On hot days, long grades mine don't have a chance. Your system is way better than mine. Part of the problem is the rectangular radiator, not good. Cummins says it needs to be as square as  possible to keep the un-swept area at a minimum. Our radiators suck.

 

Your fan is a 26" 9 blade unit, ours is a 7 blade 22". We have a viscous fan clutch that may or may not kick on before the ECT is off the chart. You have a more positive clutch, a square radiator and a little bigger overall.