Mopar1973Man

The only time I would consider 10w-30 would be in the winter time. Trying to find diesel CI-4 or CJ-4 oils locally in other than 15w-40 is nearly impossible.

I'm always pulling trailers either my RV or the utility trailer but the difference is my two typically weigh in at 7,000 to 8,500 pound in trailer weight given me roughly 16,000 to 17,000 pound gross combined weight.

4 thing that will kill a VP44... 1. Fuel pressure too low. Suggested: 14-20 PSI this is for Bosch requirements of 70% return rate for proper cooling and lubing. 2. Fuel Lubricity score too high. Suggested: <450 HFRR all US diesel fuel scores in about ~520 HFRR considered poor by Bosch's standards. Be careful of the products you select because some actually make the score worse. 3. Excessive AC Noise. Suggested: <0.1 Volts AC measured at the alternator BATT stud. 4. Poor Fuel filtration. Suggested: Using 2 fuel filters. Or even a good quality single filter with a 2-3 micron rating. * footnote for #2 - A lot of products are either injector cleaner or cetane booster this is one product you need to try to avoid using because typically the higher the cetane the low BTU rating is of the diesel hence the MPG's fall then on top of it high cetane fuel in the summer tends increase injector noise. You should never mix products together. Read over the SDS sheet and the chemicals. Then think of how those chemicals might react with the 2 cycle oil. http://www.howeslube.com/MSDS_Sheets/US/Diesel_Treat_SDS_-_U.S.pdf

Some people when they get lucky grab a 12V tappet cover and slap it on and don't worry about it again.

PCM, ECM and VP44 all get there ground from the battery ground cables. There is no body ground connection for those units. Did you have the field lead pulled too? But its odd there is no AC noise measured. The only reason I asking about the field lead is Pepsi was explaining how his was wore out field brushes causing EMF noise from the arcing of the brushes.

I've been know to go out camping leave the RV for long periods. I would hate to have some smart ar$e kid come by and see the switch on the tongue go click and have my entire fridge spoil. Not to mention I don't want any connections outside where road salt is going to attack the electrical. Not to mention if I need a quick way to cut power open cabinet, CLICK! 12 volt is now gone. I had a night where the dog was passing gas and set off the propane alarm and talk about a fight to find my leatherman, hunt there the 12V fuse panel pulling fuses, till it went off. There is a reset but it only last for about 30 seconds and trips again. At 3am in the morning you willing to just cut the power and go back to sleep deal with airing out the RV in the morning.

Like I said place my thumb over the hole 2 more pumps. Throw the plug in. both the 1996 or the 2002 neither truck leak nor do then blow oil out. But I can tip the plug and it over fill slightly so I can get a sample and know its still full. With 2 trucks here and all 4 axles overfilled slightly no issues its got to be a myth about making axles or pinion seal leak with a few extra ounces.

Know what would work really well??? Either make a outerwears or buy one but take the cloth sock and spray it camp dry. That would repel all the water from the filter.

If you were in Central Idaho I would be glad to help you but sad to say no one is... Sigh. It's been a long day. Worked at the shop till I ran out of parts and the boss man kicked me out the door. (Not really). Got to split and go home early. Ate lunch and chilled out. Headed for town early and help a fellow fire fighter get the watering down on the road. He's not all the bad of a driver but the pure size of the truck does intimidate most people looking over the nose of the hood. So after I got back to the parking lot I bailed for the board meeting. Had a change of hands in the board members of the fire dept and things are changing. Now I've got another fire fighter to train on the truck but he's never really driven anything this big. Going to be a challenge to teach to a guy from the ground up on how to drive 65,000 pound Kenworth carrying 4,000 gallons of water.

Simple solution is to take each bolt out and put a dab of silicone or loc-tite on the threads of the bolt and tighten again. That should help seal it up.

The only thing I can say is ask the store owner. I've found some stores/stations use water block filters or some use just filters. Micron ratings might vary from brand to brand.

Little secret there is quite of bit of air that slips through the gap of the hood. I tend to see more rain and such from the hood gap than the underside of the truck. Not unless your a big puddle jumper then you might see more of splash problem.

Well I just found out I've got a fire dept. board meeting tonight and a oxygen sensor to go install yet this evening... Just never stops does it?

Here is my setup... To the very left is the DC fuse panel, analog volt gauge and cutoff switch. On the floor is the 1,200w inverter and solar controller. To the right is the 120V breaker box with transfer switch for the inverter.

BHAF you can't go wrong but the heat shield as ISX has proven isn't really needed being the air filter temperature is about 2-5*F over outside temperature while driving. Idling of course it with rise but no big hurt while idling. I will admit the heat shield is impressive...

I typically use plain old silicone sealant and 85w-90 GL-5 gear lube (Petroleum). I always over fill slightly I take my thumb and place over the hole and pump in about 2 more barrel pumps more of gear lube. This way and inspection time I unscrew the plug tip it a for a brief second take a sample on my finger and screw the plug back in. So the overfill thing is a total myth.

Could you please post your AC voltage. A lot of people assume a much higher number than what it should be. Normal: 0.01 to 0.05 VAC Failure: > 0.1 VAC

Now to put more in the job pot... OR-WWF-Pittsburg fire is now getting going. Now I've got to wait for the phone to ring for the Fire Chief to assign me to a possible wildland fire. We'll see soon. (More info. http://hotlist.wildlandfire.com/threads/41632-OR-WWF-Pittsburg)

Gets even more interesting. Now my morning watering job has gone from just watering to now teaching the water tender as well. I'm going to have another gent with me in the morning I've got to train out on the big Kenworth (Cummins 400). As for the work at the shop the owner is getting buried he's got a waiting list at least 7-9 days long right now. I just finished up doing a parking brake and carburetor overhaul on a older Ford School bus (Local Rafting company). In between all this get paged out for a fire call this morning to a neighbor of the shop I work for. A land owner across the river from Lindy (Shop owner) decided to burn debris without a burn permit and on a 105*F day.

Well there has been some changes to life for me. Like I got called to do a computer job for a local mechanic to set up his OBDII scan tool with a update. While I was there I started talking shop and did a bit of diesel talk too. Needless to say he was rather impressed. Following night he calls up with a vehicle down in front of his place http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8711-newer-ford-powerstroke/ . So I deal with it and get the owner moving on again. Now the mechanic calls me up and ask me to come in and deal with a school bus (With a Cummins 6BT) that has a charging issue. So in about 3 hours get it all figured out that its a A/C system load issue. So now he's dropped a bunch more on me to do more or less been hired! OK so now thing change up even more. Monday evening the Fire Chief calls and asks if I want to make more money? After the joking and BS he tell me the FD will hire me for $15 a hour to water a road in the city of Riggins. It its about a hour job to do every day. So I'm taking morning shift on the watering so now I can water the road early in the morning and then head back over to my job which is only 3 miles away. Till it slows down again I'm going to be hoping.

When installing the injectors did you tight the injector hold down first or did you tighten the crossover tube first? Correct answer is to seat the crossover tube first then tighten the injector cap then return back and tighten the cross over tube completely. Really common to get a high pressure fuel leak in the return rail creating weird issues because of tightening the injector cap first.

I know you don't have a Smarty so that tells me to test your alternator for AC noise. Also you might try to have the ECM reflashed to reset the fuel table. You might read over the diagnostics as well. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes

As far as I knew they all came with at least a hose some with a slobber bottle. If it comes out the tappet cover and the gear case is a rubber plug you have the modified version. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

Here is a replacement option... http://www.rvgauge.com/

The only bonus is deep cycle batteries have a slightly deeper sump for lead sulphation to pile up in the bottom. But if you properly maintaining your batteries you'll clear 10 years on the cheap no-name batteries.