Mopar1973Man

Huh? Stock injectors. Your fine yet for turbo even with the RV275's you still fine. Even with my +50HP injectors its still very controllable for EGT's. The problem is that people try to tow at the same speed as a empty truck. This where things go wrong. You need to gear down and slow down a bit on grades. Even out here in Idaho I tow most grades in 4th gear (5 speed) without any problems EGT's wise as long as I'm at my torque curve peek. (1,900 to 2,100 RPM's)

As for the the output side of the pump you can pass through 2 filters without any loss. (3 micron on the AirDog and 10 micron fleetguard in the stock can). As for the suction side you can add a pre-filter screen.

Still makes me scratch my head this why the AirDog series was create with a pre-filter and water separator before the pump. Then create a Raptor without the filter and then blame the owner for not installing the filter before the pump. Maybe Pureflow should look at there own design and reconsider that this is not a prefect world and fuel is always dirty and has debris in it. So why isn't Raptor re-designed to include a spin on filter before or something to protect the pump like the AirDog's?

35*F here... Get ready for clear sky day and possible 55*F high.

Fuel leaking out the pump motor. Regulator spring issues and wild up/down swings in pressure. Complete geo-rotor failure where the pump locks up blowing the fuse.

Ummm... 54*F and partial sunny here. Lawn turing green and next week I get to fire up water for the irrigation system and hydro generator.

Getting all the wood framing done. I'm curious to see how you finish this out.

Some how I'm not convinced. How does it sharpen? Keep the teeth angles correct? Adjust rake height?

I've called his cellphone and left a message for him. But no return phone call yet.

Same here when I bought mine from Staples they will not touch the PC software. But as a end user you can do what you wish to it for software.

I've straight piped my stock pipe and pull my ring for while. Then put it back in. Then I destroyed my turbo with that hose clamp and had it rebuilt. Then stuck the ring back in the turbo bark blew it out and I caught it time before damage was caused. I've left the ring out since then.

That is something that frustrates me about modules. I which they would explain there timing curve a bit more. Smarty seems to have setting that aren't explained very well. Kind of like the duration setting. Even Edge Products are just as bad.

Good to see you back around... Is it the 5th gear nut that failed in the trans?

Like again I made my way home from the Fire Chief house tonight and I know the highway speed limit is 65 MPH but I continue to drive 55 all the way home. I had a guy tailgating me on the way home and I pulled off on Rainbow bend road to loop back up on the highway. I'm glad I did because I had two deer jump out ahead of me. I had plenty of time to slow down and give them time to clear the highway. But I had that tailgater I might of been home lot later...

That's a big problem with laptops. Laptops are very limited for ventilation so after while the vent plug up with dust and lint and BOOM! The whole laptop is fried from overheat. What is funny all computer today have heat management of some sort. Linux can monitor with a Conky panel and you able to watch CPU and Hard Drive temps and keep things from over heating. I know Windows can too but even back in the day the programs seem to be limited for what they can see and what hardware. Something to think about.

Either way all modules add timing of some sort. But where and when the timing is added is the problem. Edge Comp seems to add the timing down low RPM's. But not a 100% certain either.

Here is my beast that I've been using I love this laptop and it works very well with Linux. Only paid about $420 for it in Ontario, OR - Staples... satellite_L875D-S7232.pdf

Check this out. Source Article... http://www.rumormillnews.com/cgi-bin/forum.cgi?read=303675 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XqZoaWKv2k Personal note: My hats off to the lady for holding here ground and not speeding up just to satisfy other jerks on the road.

Glamping... I had to go look it up... Ugh!

But cycling isn't normal. By Sanden Compressor manual the compressor should remain locked for optimal performance and never cycle more than 3 times a minute. If cycling more than that compressor clutch damage will occur. So its best to keep it locked up so that means charging the system properly with freon too.

More than likely not. Being most all parts in the pump are harden steel there isn't a whole lot a person could do. Maybe clean it up a bit with sandpaper. But more than likely if you did the tolerance would be all goofy. This why most are just better off replacing the pump as a whole. But as for why I tore this one down is to bring information and understanding of what is inside the pump and possible reasons to why they fail so we can correct things to get better life from your pump.

That photo is without the compressor running and equalized. I need to see with the compressor running. If it dropping the low side below 30 PSI its cutting out the compressor till the low side pressure returns.

I think a person could get a seal kit and reseal a pump but as for rebuilding it and getting it right and calibrated with new parts I don't think it could be done properly. Not saying it not capable of being done but optimal pumping wouldn't be there. @ Katoom There is that broken disc again. But it would surprise you how many "Injection shops" still tell customer their VP44 failed from a torn diaphragm. I still get phone calls today about this diaphragm failure.

THat's why I asked for the pump so I could tear it apart and look and see what all the talk of this diaphragm. To this day I don't see this rubber disc anywhere. So far I part with the parts a bit and found most all parts (moving) are harden steel. I'm still digging all over the internet looking for a seal kit that includes the "diaphragm"...

From what I can figure out is temperature of the fuel will effect timing of the VP44 so the colder the fuel the more advanced the timing. This allows more time for the VP44 to inject the fuel, convert from liquid to vapor then to ignite. Where hotter fuel would ignite easy and would require less timing. Then of the fuel got excessively hot then defuel the VP44 to attempt to protect it from damage. But you would be shocked at the temperature it has to get to to trip a code of VP44 over temp.