Mopar1973Man

Truck will run off the batteries for several hours. So just unhooking the field lead show do it for you. Then like MnTom suggested take a test drive and see if the problem still exist.

Why do that? When there is a Aux Power stud in the PDC. Best to fixed the source of the noise problem than attempting to filter it. Typically deep cycle batteries have less CCA and more Amp/Hours storage. So your trading out the cold starting ability for storage and long term draw function. I would stick to normal starting batteries.

When you do the BC test all your doing is ruling out if the ECM is bad or not. Being it starts without the ECM that means the ECM has taken on damage of some sort to prevent it from starting.

Bit too high I would try for another spring 17 PSI. As for the previous bogging problem you might still check the alternator out. I just talked to Pepsi71Ocean yesterday and found out his transmission and alternator issues were caused by a $10 set of alternator brushes. This created enough AC noise to measure 0.7 and 0.8 AC volts which was enough to create lock up issues and stalling issues.

Dorkweed's way of messing up. Or... After he's done stacking it all.

Still why is utility trailers excluded? I've seen some out weigh some RV's.

Have to go picking on my hair...

Naw... I'm not that greedy...

Here is the owners manual...

Basically anything the ECM/PCM has a sensor for.

That's a question I can't get answered... Why is that only RV's require a Weight Distribution Hitch where most all utility trailers don't? Like my Fire Chief has utility box trailers that gross more weight than my RV but don't require a WD hitch. Even my BigTex 70TV is really close to the RV in weights but doesn't require a WD hitch either. But some can hitch up to a bumper bull flat bed trailer grossing 13,000 to 14,000 with a tractor no problem without a WD hitch but on the flip side RV requires (or highly suggested). Why is this?

Doesn't hurt. Live data tool (like ScanGauge II) would do just fine if you want to watch engine data.

Typically our trucks can haul roughly 9,000 to 13,000 pound trailers. Hitch weight of about 900 to 1,300 (~10%).

HX35W turbo is a 12cm2 exhaust housing and a HY35W turbo is a 9cm2 exhaust housing.

Funny how a isolator can make a quality mechanical fuel pressure gauge in to read junk pressures.

Diesel Auto Power or Vulcan Performance is my only two I deal with being they sell VP44's with a new PSG unit on top where you pay extra money at Blue Chip for new PSG, NAPA I can't confirm if the PSG is new or where they get rebuilt.

Sign of a bad ECM. WTS light should come on for a bulb check each time.

Yea the P0216 code... Mechanical failure of the injection pump on the timing piston. It seems your pump has taken on damage. I would clear the code and see if the code returns.

Actually no. Because if you truly running for MPG's you boost should be below 5 PSI if so there is no flowing exhaust really (Back pressure). I'm still running 3" exhaust just straight piped and no issues at all with MPG's. Actually you find slightly warmer intake air temps promote better MPGs more than anything. Between 100-140*F you'll get you better MPG than colder air will.

DW I could and you didn't even swing up into Idaho to say "Hi!"... Geez...

I found a article a while back that explains a weird behavior of the IAT sensor. Say for example the IAT is forced 143*F, the coolant is actually 195*F and the outside temperature is <60*F you go start the Wait To Start doesn't give any grid heat pre-starting but post-starting there is grid heat. But now if the outside temperature rises to 100*F now there is neither pre-start grid heat or post-start grid heat. The only sensor left on the truck that can sense temperature is battery temp sensor. So the best I can say is the PCM communicates this information to the ECM over the CCD network. Battery temp sensor is designed for controlling charging voltage vs. temperature. But the article I did find the system will use some of the information from the battery temp sensor when and what I'm not sure exactly.

SRW to DRW really doesn't change the carrying capacity of the truck. It just make for a more stable ride that's all. Like adding training wheels to your truck.

Could be any measurement you want for ratio it can be gallons, ounces or even liters. 128:1 Ratio. 128 Gallons of fuel to 1 gallon of oil. 128 Ounces of fuel to 1 ounce of oil. 128 Liters of fuel to 1 liter of oil. All are the same.

That rattle is caused by any performance module. But as boost rises the timing should retard which it does typically. Also the colder the air is the worse the problem gets so warming the air reduces the timing rattle and does produce better MPG for daily driver.

I had one break a wire and so I bought just one sensor. The ABS/BRAKE light remained on till I replace the other sensor then it went out. Even Wild & Free had the same problem.