Mopar1973Man

Like I said I'm going to have to check. http://jacobs-oil.com/

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view Give a clue. But I can tell you if the parts are damaged it would be stalling all the time. All parts are harden steel.

If I remember right the RWAL system on your truck has a bleeder as well look back by the rear wheel line and there should be a device tee'd out of the system this a RWAL dump device to dump pressure in a captive reservoir. Might look at that...

More so the CANBUS connector but for test purpose I would pull both CANBUS and wire tap.

Mobil I can most likely do. But all the other are not sold up here. (Castro, AMSOil, Schaeffers, etc.)

Please could you list these oil brand names down so I can see if I can get these oil locally?

Yes. When the timing is over advanced from * Cold Air - The colder the IAT temperature the more and more timing is advanced. * Cold Coolant - The colder the coolant temperature the more pronounced timing advancement. * Low to Zero Boost - Low to zero boost will advance the most. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature So with more boost pressure there is more retarding of timing. Yes. Wore out injectors with excessive low pop pressure will fire early causing injector rattle too.

One line is enough being the flow return is pretty fast.

Not pointed at you but showing a example of research for other members to make up there mind. That's all. But still I would like to see Bosch test more so than Cummins.

Exactly. Just keep flushing till the fluid is the same color going and coming out. SuperTech is Walmart brand power steering fluid.

Has anyone taken time to look at ratios? 8 Gallons of fuel x 128 = 1,024 Ounces Adding 1 ounce to 1,024 ounces of fuel (1,024:1 Ratio) Attachment is MSDS and links below are the different chemical used just to show you break down of products. You can look up the CAS numbers of each thing and dig deeper. http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB5938980.htm http://www.epa.gov/iris/subst/0436.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB7479115.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_111-76-2.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_95-63-6.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/ProdSupplierGWCB9895825_EN.htm http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_1330-20-7.htm http://s07.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/corporate/trading-shipping/downloads/msds/in-country/netherlands-str/md-distillates-petroleum-hydrotreated-light-cas-64742-47-8---str---en.pdf http://www.chemicalbook.com/CASEN_100-41-4.htm This is to teach everyone that you can do your own research on a product and deem if you want to use said product or what? But at least I show a way for you to break down all the products used in a additive so you can figure out if you want to use this product or not. 264-137ND-msds.pdf

Welcome to the family!

Run Supertech Power Steering fluid year round with temps as low as -25*F not issues with whine or steering. But I always flush the system out before winter and start winter with a fresh batch of power steering fluid that isn't all scorch out from summer heat.

Because there isn't any difference. 40 weight is 40 weight. The 5w and 15w are you cold weight characteristics. So you start-up characteristics changed a little bit but the full heated characteristics remained the same of 40 weight. You would have to change to 10w-30 or 5w-20 to see changes. It the second number you want to drop. But once again there is no one around me that sells a CI-4 or CJ-4 oil in any other weight than 15w-40 period. All the 10w-30 and 5w-20 is all "S" rated oils which are not designed for our engines.

There is a rebuild kit for it... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

True but what your seeing is things like Xylene that is added to the fuel for pour point depressant. This will evaporate off and still leave the petroleum product behind. Take a peek at today MSDS sheets for just plain old #2 diesel you'll be shock at what is added these days. What would be better yet is a product designed by Bosch for there own fuel systems. Even Dodge and Cummins to this day post weird information in concerns to Bosch fuel system but Bosch has there own standards. Might not be bad per say but I don't know of very many people that actually sit down with calculator and say "I pumped 22.493 Gallons that is 2,879.104 ounces of fuel and need to add in 7.19 ounces of additive for 400:1 ratio." Most take the bottle and pour in a huge gulp of it and guess. Then other fill the fuel filter up with straight product and start the truck even harsher yet. So is this over does a good thing or bad thing? Depends on the product and how much huh?

Thinking of that I've seen rare cases after cleaning connectors and adding dielectric grease to them, I've seen where they build up a bit of pressure and push it back out of the socket and because it never really locked or the socket lock is broke.

Possibly too but it never hurts to inspect everything to fine out there is nothing wrong. At least then you can rest assured that everything is just a OK...

Every since I got on the 2 cycle oil I've never used any anti -gel either and see winter temperature as low -25*F. So what I've always done is my homework of where the quality fuels are and who adds PPD (pour point depressants). Ask yourself how I got this picture if I didn't do my homework. Hmmm?

He's right on the the mark but here is the diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

Start by reading about the CCD network... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus Then verify all the CCD network is all connected properly.

The 3rd Gen trucks were built around the EPA rules more so that actual efficiency and power. Kind of like going back in time and seeing the old school muscle cars of the 60's then looking into the 70's of how they smog them out with EGR valve, air pump, modified cam, etc. All EPA junk and killed off the muscle car generation. So now looking at Diesel Trucks we are going around one big circle all over again.

Not really. I'm still running 3" exhaust as well. Because if you driving for economy/efficiency then there is no driver pressure or boost pressure so 3" is just fine. Now if your racing I would say for sure 4 inch exhaust would gain you much more because drive pressure is way up and so is boost pressure.

Two forms of verification (ScanGauge II and hand written logs) Remember my ScanGauge II numbers are from Home to point A and back home. The fuel logs are from fuel station to fuel statino and might not be the same one. Also my odometer is off by 0.5 MPH so my ScanGauge II is more accurate over my hand math logs.

Here you go. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/45-2001-dodge-ramrar/