Mopar1973Man

CR injectors are expensive but still and all I agree with John on this one. New is the best option and replace all in one shot.

You still should have a error code for battery temp sensor.

I tend to rinse down my engine about once a week or so keeping the road dust and dirt from collecting as goopy grease on the block from leaks. But I've only replace one alternator since new. Still have all my OE idler bearing and fan bearing.

Bunch of alcoholics... Oh well. I'm going to grab my light weight stuff Whiskey and toss it in the RV for midnight sipping. I could go up to a friends parents place and get a few hits of the White Lightning.

Might have the alternator re-tested for AC noise output. Double check for P0336 error codes for the crank sensor if the tach is not reading or incorrect then the transmission will shift funny and alternator charging will be affected.

MPG fooler and/or warm air intakes help too. This tend to retard the timing. IAT temps of 100-140*F will bring the timing down and make them quieter. Tighter valve lash 0.008 on intake and 0.018 on exhaust. Lower cetane fuels. (~40 cetane) 2 Cycle Oil (128:1 ratio)

Funny... After I changed my oil and cleaned the under side of the truck I've not see any oil leaks as of yet. Kind of one of those moments!?

Correction... Move the sender FARTHER from the VP44. Closer you get the stronger the water hammer pulse are and the less time it takes to destroy a fuel pressure sender. What people don't under stand is there is roughly like 600 pulses a second coming from the VP44. In a mechanical gauge the pulse are very audible as a buzzing noise that changes with RPM's but with a electric sender the same buzzing noise can be heard over the clatter of the Cummins. But it still there eating away at the electric senders.

Good question for you AH64ID? What is the battery manufactures float voltage and bulk voltage requirements? What is the battery manufactures suggested charge rate? All batteries have a designed float and bulking voltages for optimal charging to prevent gases of the battery. Typically slow charging is better for any battery because of the the gassing issues that might occur at high charging rates. Ultimately the best charger would have a battery temp sensor and adjust charging voltage accordingly. But I know most RV converters don't have such a option.

Also check your crankcase vent too. I've seen some really poor mods done to the crankcase vent that causes pressure to build up and blow the tappet cover gasket out. One of my small reasons I never suggest extending the crankcase vent with more rubber hose.

Typically the killer of track bars is the oversized tires. Since the OP is still running stock size I would worry much about custom bars or modifying personally. Pick a bar of good quality and go for it.

You might want to get in touch with ISX on the HX35W turbo he's done a bunch of work with video and other wise for these turbos.

Welcome to the family. Hopefully you find the answer to any problems you might have...

Talk to Ed Grafton (Yankneck) he would know the Quadzilla angle.

Wow. Just looking at those pictures its soooo close to being like my rig. Yeah... The green carpet I think needs to go... Don't you?

As far as I know you just pull the vacuum pump and PS pump as a unit from the truck.

Yes. I've towed even on 5x5. What's really wild is towing up a 6-7% grade set the cruise and then turn the Edge Comp off from 5x5 and watch the pyrometer. It doesn't change. Because the truck has to fuel X amount to pull Y amount of weight up a 6-7% grade so regardless of settings it shouldn't change much from Edge Comp to OFF. With the Edge Comp on 5x3 and towing the RV I've had the rear tires break loose on paint lines on the highway, smooth spot of asphalt, or a bridge seam.

I'm running HX35W Turbo with no issues with +50HP injectors and Edge Comp on 5x3. Normal empty cruising 55-60 MPH is about 2-3 PSI and 550-600*F. Towing at 55-60 MPH with 8,000 pound trailer it floats around 750-900*F no issues. Climbing 6-7% grade I can pull it right at 53-55 MPH and float between 1,000-1,100*F but that being smart and dropping from 5th into 4th gear. I would say turn the Juice up more but I know you got a Automatic.

When you get a chance give me a call and we'll walk through it together.

That's all it does is let the ECM/PCM see the idle to WOT limits and store them that's all.

That the part I hate about RV's by the time you start digging into the walls and ceiling you can uncover a whole lot of sin hiding behind a thin piece of vinyl wallpaper. Hopefully you bind that roof panel back together to insure structural strength.

Just got to look around. I know where all the public scales that leave on the display like one in Horsebend, ID. Or the Shell station in Council, ID just ask the cashier and they write down your weight. Or my other favorite in Grangeville, ID there is a feed store that leave the scale display on 24 hours. I try to check RV/Truck weight twice a year.

Enjoy Dave... LOL! (Yes... I was nice enough to backup your old one!)

There is on just down the road from me...

Stock SO engine produced 235 HP. Stock RV Cummins ISB produced 275 HP (RV275) or roughly +40 HP New nozzles, pop testing and flow matching by the time you do all this it might be cheaper to just buy new injectors.