Mopar1973Man

It going to be a nasty dry summer just looking at what we have for snow. January 21, 2014 - 9:40am Looking southeast Looking northeast

Remove the turbo and then remove the wastegate motor (spring loaded). Now using a small hammer a penetrating oil tap the arm back and forth till its freed up. Some members here have had good luck doing this and other ended up breaking the arm off trying (seized completely).

Like I just returned from the RV site this morning and there is another thread start where a gent wants to pull with a Ford 1/2 Ton Ecoboost and asking for MPG's. The only thing I stated was consider diesel powerplant it will do better more BTU's per gallon. Boy... OP jumped my post for that one. Seriously I don't see what anyone is gaining in getting smaller and smaller tow rigs and wanting larger and larger RV's. Makes no sense. Especially the common place is Ford Ecoboost with a big 5th wheel. I never forget the experience with Camping World. The first thing the dealer did was sit down and look up the specs of my truck GCWR and GAWR front and rear of the truck. Then did a search of all RV on the lot meeting my price range and weight range. Then proceeded to go from RV to RV. Make sure that you keep a system of listing the GVWR of the trailer and forget the dry weight. Way too many get wrapped up with dry weights (this is only for the manufacture for shipping reasons). Another common is any gas power plant vehicle is to cut 10-15% off of the trailer weight allowance to keep from pushing a engine transmission too hard. But that what I can give for advise for now... Good luck on the venture... You know you'll be more than welcome to advertise your new business here too.

Input shaft is still turning and you using the syncros to attempt to stop the input shaft. This why you having a hard time getting into gear. You might want to look at either the throwout bearing (wore enough that the clutch is dragging) or pilot bearing (wore enough dragging the input shaft). I had the rare one where the springs on the friction disc broke open on me.

P0234 is a stuck wastegate for sure now. MAP sensor is working fine because its seeing over 20 PSI of boost and defueling the engine.

No kidding. (I better not post a picture of mine right now)

I'll find out more about this tomorrow. I gotta head out shopping at the local store and head to my fire meeting tomorrow evening. So I'll get plenty of time to bench test the change.

Yes that is correct for cable assembly. Mine is set up the same way. Be smart and order both cables left and right sides.

MAP sensor is seeing too much boost for too long for P0236. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/166-p0236-map-sensor-too-high-too-long As for the dirty MAP sensor... That's becoming a Internet myth too. I've not pulled either MAP or IAT sensor on over 3 years now with a exhaust brake and not having any issues. No such thing as a dirty MAP sensor. But looking at the code the MAP sensor is working properly but you building way more boost that stock and holding way longer hence the error code.

Once again I found the check ball wedged back into the coils of the spring. I wanted to get a picture by the time I did get the camera the check ball fell out in it own and rolled across the shop floor before I could press the camera button. :banghead: So I got a bit more aggressive this time. I added a new twist to the spring I bent the very end of the spring into a L shape inwards so the tip holds the ball from starting into the coils. Time will tell...

Might not get over boost hard enough to stay below CEL from lighting up. It can do it though...

Which MAP code? P0234, P0236, P0327 or P0238??? Any of the above except P0236 will put it in limp mode. Just like driving with low oil pressure. It won't take long to destroy the injection pump.

We are heading for +40°F weather and no snow on the ground. As for plugging in the truck I typically saw 100-110°F worth of coolant temperature at start up with 750w block heater.

Come come Dave... You know that 300k miles without a picture is rather meaningless...

Is there any error codes if not then the APPS is most likely fine. Typically a APPS error will light up the CEL. What your fuel pressure like while towing?

POR15 or some waste engine oil. I do live in the rust belt I just keep the truck washed off. suggestion to John is remove the line if you can and take it into a part store and get part numbers at least even if they don't stock it. Then you can use them as a cross reference to RockAuto or similar places.

Here is the article on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/55-drum-brake-wheel-cylinder-upgrade

Just for translation for your link... Автор говорит: "Моё стандартное вождение в пробке. Авто - Nissan Pathfinder" The author says: "My standard driving in traffic. Cars - Nissan Pathfinder"

Double check there is a Load Range G tire out there with a speed rating of Q (99 MPH) and its still a ST tire.

I've got a electric rock.

Might want to check on 5 gallon bucket prices typically are better.

I spend a good hour laying on a creeper looking up at the frame and everything with a flashlight. I take notes of oil leaks, fluids level, color, and smell. Look for worn parts or damage parts. I more or less treat my truck like a airplane because if a airplane has a failure it usually turns out rather poor. When I live its the same thing. If my truck breaks down and leave me walking might turn out very poor or deadly. No cell service and might have to walk in some seriously cold weather. I'm responsible truck owner. What taught me a lesson was a ex-girlfriend. She bought a brand new Ford Ranger pickup. Nice truck and fun to drive. We'll on our ride back from over in the back country of Washington she slid off the road and blew a tire off the rim. She assumed the spare was good because it was never used. So far from true. Well the truck had a lock to keep people from stealing the tire she had no idea how to even unlock it. Then after that she had no idea where the jack and hardware was. Then after finding all that and lower the tire down to find out it only had about 15-20 PSI in the tire. So it was enough but very squirrelly driving. Now I check everything... Like in my last maintenance check of the BigTex 70TV trailer I found my trailer spare was flat. I never assume anything anymore.

Good Gawd John when was the last time you gave that thing a rust treatment?

Yea He's right Moog bars are too big I remember reading it in the instructions of the Luke's Links documents.

I make it part of my schedule maintenance to check the spare tire and it cable for damage at the same time check the tire condition, tire pressure, etc. So while I'm doing all this I'll lube up the cable winch and put it all back together.