Mopar1973Man

I agree with Bill I would rather be the one to tear down the engine looking at all the damages one piece at a time and documenting everything. Then have a shop look it over as well and between the two make a judgment call on what needs to be replaced, repaired, etc. I know on the assembly process I would do my own if all parts had been machined for me to fit. But usually its just easier for a shop to assemble it for you. Something about taking the time and effort into making this kind of repair really gives you a big learning curve and then being proud of being capable of doing the job as well. As for me I've done a few V8 360's and 318's and even a 383 out of the Charger in my days.

Work. As for jobs and making a bit of money as long as you keep your mind open to almost anything you can always find a small job for extra cash. Like tonight I got a Fire Dept meeting and I'm going to talk to my Fire Chief about bringing his 06 Dodge down so I can change the clutch in his truck. In the past I use to help a friend bone out wild game and make money doing that. I've been as low as dish pit in a local restaurant to manager of a motel. Done all this right here in Idaho. What's amazing about this is all these jobs I've never done before but if you open minded and willing to learn why not?

Here is the battery I'm using. http://www.trojanbatteryre.com/PDF/datasheets/L16REB_TrojanRE_Data_Sheets.pdf Typically you get about 12-15 years from a set of batteries as long as they are maintained properly and and not discharged too deeply. I still have a re-occurring power bill but its trimmed way down during the summer to like $30-$40 bucks tops winter time it does go up to about $100-$130 tops. Power outages around here are very common place in the storm seasons and outages might last for days sometimes longest I've seen is 14 days without power. I opted for the wet cells because I can maintain the electrolyte much better and equalize charge the batteries monthly to keep the sulphation down to minimum. As for AGM or gel cells you end up paying more for a battery but typically the life span is much shorter because both batteries are sealed and do vent moisture over time and then fail once the cells dries out.

I'm also the same way light frost and wiper solution will typically knock it off. But heavy snow or ice build up is a different story and the good ol' fashion ice scraper comes out. I would typically at this point fire up and set the 3 cylinder high idle and exhaust brake. By the time I'm done scrapping the entire windshield the heat has caught up enough to get the last little bits by the time I start moving. But this is rare for me. I typically store my truck in a unheated shop.

Hey wait what am I drooling about I live in the woods. :doh:Somewhere along that line you should consider power options. I see you'll have plenty of firewood for heating all winter long.

No. I never seen it happen with my truck when getting fuel slosh below 1/8 tank. This pump has never tripped a P0216 code yet. The only time you need to clean these sensors is if you own a Exhaust Brake. If not there should be zero reason to even pull them. Heck even with my Exhaust brake I quit pulling the IAT sensor and MAP a few years back to see if I could actually foul the sensors. Has not happen yet.

So very true. The only other way to warm up a truck quickly is with high idle and exhaust brake. This way you create a virtual load for the engine and create heat. Don't want to do that either that a wonderful way of destroying the alternator being its only rated for 140 Amp tops and you dropping a excessive load of 195 Amps on for 2-5 minutes most likely overheat the alternator in a quick hurry.

Radio mostly. But the steering wheel controls went back over to the Central timer to be sent out on the CCD network. So its the central timer and the radio as a communication pair. Still a easy way is to measure the CCD voltage and see if there is 2.49 and 2.51 volts in reference to ground. If not start unplugging all the accessories one at a time looking for the voltage to return. The one that allows it to return is the failed unit. You only need PCM, ECM and instrument cluster to work.

I suggest you practice with the ABS computer plugs first being they are right in front of you and easy to look at. But Bill is right just slight the red tab over and then squeeze the release and lightly tug it will slide right off.

Only to a point. I would imagine if the intake air was heated to 120-140*F constantly it should improve warm up times. That's the way it was back in the 1970's muscle car they had a thermostatic vacuum valve that controlled heated air for the air cleaner to air in warm up times. But some where in the 80's that all went away and Cold Air Intake was the rave and electronic fuel injection came out. EGR isn't a good thing in any sense. All you doing is fill the manifold with CO2 and heat and not making a burnable mixture for the next cycle. But heated air would help out I don't see any reason why it won't.

You might try talking to my guy that does my saw work. http://www.yellowpages.com/ontario-or/mip/drapers-outdoor-power-equipment-4199353

40 warm up cycles to self erase codes. I would personally just erase the codes with a OBDII code reader and take it for a test drive and then check again to see if the codes returned. If so then you'll have to deal with the codes.

It's a different life style that's for sure. Just give your self time to adjust and don't let it get you down. Like for me moving from Los Angeles, California to New Meadows, Idaho was a huge step. Now today I couldn't imagine moving to California or even Boise, Idaho to live. Just way beyond me.

Correct. The Radio is on the CCD Network because of the remote steering wheel controls in the upper models. So the remote steering wheel controls sent there data over the CCD Network to the radio to turn volume up and down or tune to your favorite station.

Ummm... Product will be out very very soon... http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/high-idle-switch-98-02-cubby.htm

I'm all over the place. I'm always working on something somewhere. But welcome to our little family here.

Everyone is just one big happy family. There is times when some family member don't see eye to eye but we all get along. So welcome to the our little family of Cummins diesel nuts.

Not much for comfort in that little engine room. I'm sure it gets rather hot in there during the summer...

Edge Comp doesn't seem to have that issue. Mine is quite old now and survived many jump starts on other vehicles. I've never had a dead battery on my truck yet to this day.

That's way too hot... Ekk! I would check the radiator first thing. Really common to see the face of it all packed with grime and oil.

Any where she says to stop... Congrads to the both of you.

Not a bad deal on the truck at all. As for the hot rod that really nice...

I love the kit and its just what you need but for some reason I don't see the price being right. I'm sure you could build your own bracket, buy a filter base from NAPA for much less and spin on a filter for about $100 total. Even all the fitting and hose would be cheap from Eric at Vulcan performance. I just can't see $350 worth of parts there.

Jacobs brake on mine but it requires to be bolts directly to the stock Hx35 turbo.

One of these days I need to crawl under mine and get the same thing done. Got the seal kit sitting here...