Mopar1973Man

Need to adjust the switch when you install it for proper position.

Highly suggest yo go over to Tractor Farm and Family and talk to Randy the Admin over there. He's also a bee keeper and could help you out a bunch on getting started.

No loss here. My truck been parked for 2 months now head into 3 months. As for the cold air denser rule after doing the calculations at 10*F vs. 100*F weather there is a increase of about 6 MPH at 70 MPH so if your travelling 70 MPH it more like 76 MPH with wind drag. At 55 MPH is more like 59 MPH (+4 MPH). So you might have to cut back a extra 5-10 MPH on speed to get back to normal wind drags. Winterized fuels are typically higher in cetane and lower in BTU content. Since both of you tow trailers the length of vehicle also plays into the figures. Like even my low slung BigTex 70TV still pulls me down from 21-22 to 16-17 MPG empty or load doesn't matter.

Time to ditch the gauge isolator. 99% of all gauge or low fuel pressure problems stem back to a isolator issues.

Batteries need to be load tested. Starter needs to be pulled and check for contact wear and brush wear. Need to do a voltage drop test on the battery cables. Then double check the fuel system isn't losing prime and filling with air.

What was your IAT temp? If you don't know what was the temperature outside during this time?

I've also seen those kind of weird swings here in Idaho go from 85-90*F weather fighting forest fires to 32-35*F and watching it snow on your fire make you really wonder.

So for with the RV275's and +50HP injectors you can make some seriously good MPG's. Nice power increase without being too wild and smoky.

If I remember right I think its just 2 bolts. You should be able to pull the unit back to change the one gasket.

I tend to think the same thing I would look at the solenoid and see if its sticking.

Alarms and limits of the Edge unit are just a big PITA. I typically suggest to most to turn all that stuff off to prevent problems.

Hey Gang you might want to check over at Diesel Truck Site for there Harbor Freight Tool contest. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=961

Yes. Slide the white collar up as tight as possible and then lightly twist the line back and forth. The rubber o-ring will tend to stick in place and need a bit of twisting action to get them started sometimes.

Alligator Diesel in Northern Idaho sells a ISSPro Fuel pressure gauge for about $43 bucks. Never did like electric gauges.

Should not have to do the APPS ground wire mod. Also if this is correcting the WAIT TO START issue you have a bad ground for the ECM.

Exactly what I got here for indoor use. Then I got a torpedo style for the shop...

Just for fun I stopped by the tire shop and got some quotes of tire prices... LT285/75 R16 Cooper Stampede A/T $896.00 LT285/75 R16 Cooper Mud Claw M/T $1,064.00 LT285/70 R17 Nitto Crosstek $1,188.00 (50,000 mile tire)

It would do the job but the problem is as you vent it wildly like that now you got to drain the oil from the system and remeasure it. Because you have no idea how much PAG oil has now been blown out of the system. So if you have manifold gauge set and a vacuum pump you can slowly and controlled vent the freon without venting much oil from the system. Too little oil will damage the compressor. Too much oil will put excessive strain on the compressor.

We got a Big Buddy heater as well for a fall back heater source in case of wood stove issues (chimney plugged up, lack of wood, etc.) I've never used one through the night but we've used it for a about 1 winter chasing the bitter cold mornings and then shutting it down. No issues here. Like its also nice for the shop for those day I just need some quick heat and don't want to fire up a wood stove. Also have a torpedo propane heater as well.

WARNING! There is roughly 90-100 PSI in the system if you release a line it will exploded with freon and oil. I typically just use a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump and draw a vacuum on the system slowly. Opps... Looks like I'm missing a bit of artwork from the old site yet.

3 Tanks? Wow that is a rare truck. Even my old 72 was a dual tank truck with electrical solenoid valve... Multi-tank truck are rare any more.

The only thing is you need the dealer DRBIII tool to flash a used ECM or a new ECM because they are sold blank.

Yes for a A-pillar pod or steering column pod. Just the overhead console is too far on this set of leads. Also Ed has informed me he will be making a version to install in the over head console. (Coming soon)

I personally don't get wrapped up with all the hype of synthetic oils. I look at what standard the engine needs to meet and for lubrication and give it that. So if the API Standard calls for CI-4 or CJ-4 engine oils that what it needs. As for weight of oil this gets rather messy but the first number xxW with the W stands for winter or (cold start) this is viscosity the oil will behave like at cold temps. The second number is the viscosity of the oil when at normal operation temperature. More here. (Attached file) engineoilguide_march2010.pdf

Now that you making me think a bit I've got a friend that has a 1992 Dodge that had a really bad slipping clutch but come to find out it was mostly caused by a leaking tappet cover gasket or valve cover gasket. Once the oil leak was stop the clutch slippage problem seem to go away as well.