
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
9.2% <- 15.5% -> 22.5%So the 9.2% would of gone down in MPG's. Lower the offset the lower the MPG numbers. Higher the offset the higher the MPG numbers.
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
I can tell you that the stock calibration is the 9.2% offset. The RV275's with the Edge Comp on 5x3 is 15.5% and the RV275 and the Edge Comp on 5x5 was 22.5%. So being I'm only shifting 10HP from previous injectors roughly and the Edge Comp isn't changed I'm pretty sure I'm close to right. Really close... But we'll find out in the next fill how much I've got to change the offset.So that 17.2 MPG was actually 16.1 MPG (backward figuring).
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
Basically the same distance. Lewiston - http://goo.gl/maps/JCqKO Ontario - http://goo.gl/maps/Cvwvt (Modified to show route taken around bridge construction in Weiser, ID) My numbers are in check... Try again... As for the ScanGauge II I'm going to get it checked on next fill...
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Remanufactured VP44 Pump
(Insider tip)DAP = Industrial InjectionI know where his pumps come from. :wink:Personally I don't worry about the vendors I worry about the source of the pump who re-maned the pump? Like I found out there is only a small handful of Bosch Certified rebuilders and the rest are just vendors selling wares from these rebuilders.
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vp44 advance
Also like ISX and I discussed the 40* of crank is going to be 20* of cam which its driven from. So if say the initial timing is 13*BTDC then you could have plus or minus 10* of either side of the 13* starting point.
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Wild fires
I've tried on many different types of SCBA's but I'll most likely never wear a SCBA on a fire because without my glasses I'm nearly blind and worthless. My optimal spot is working the pump panel and keeping water supplied to the fire fighter at the far end. The only reason I took the SCBA training is just for the off chance there is a HazMat issue or chemical based fire I can still work the pump panel but knowing my personal safety is still covered. At close distance I can still make out the panel. Give you any idea... Without my glasses on my monitor I have to be within 12" of the screen to even read this post. Yeah... I'm blind as a bat...
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vp44 advance
ISX I think has the range of degrees that a VP44 can move.As for the VP44 in stock form it can use the full range of advancement. It just the electronics give more ability to control it and get it advanced quicker.As for monitoring the timing position I would have to say that a DRBIII might be able to such thing. But most normal people don't have about $6,000 to toss out on a tool like that...:spend:I imagine all the Cummins tool should be able to see it too. Once again too spendy for normal people.
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Lift pump replacement instructions ?
Depends on your setup and design you want to take. I kept my stock filter can and still use it today. As for the stock lift pump I can normally change those from the top in about about 15 minutes. So just remove all the stock plumbing from the lift pump and the 3 nuts on top and it will drop on the ground. Then just install your Airdog. Personally I would give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance and see about converting over to old school pushloc's so you don't have a air leak problems. Also this will allow you to add in the fitting to continue using the stock filter can as a secondary catch all filter, keep your fuel heater, etc.
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
Neither Wallet Calc'ed. When it takes $50 dollars of fuel to get to Lewiston, ID and another $50 bucks to get home on a 260 mile round trip just to pop test the injectors I'm sure the displayed lower number on the ScanGauge II was close to right. Not absolute but close. It showed that trip maxed out at 17.2 MPG. Lets not discuss that expensive trip. Todays trip cost only cost $42 bucks to fill in Ontario, OR. I was kind of filled before I left but not exactly tip top. So even in my log book I listed it as a no-fill. But this last fuel stop was a fill so I can calibrate the ScanGauge in a few days when I fill again.
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evil electrical issue need some serious back up
Just because these are new doesn't mean they are working correctly. Might read this post as another member found out just because you got a NEW alternator doesn't mean it working correctly. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
Actually about 3-5 MPG loss. Yes. It's suggested to check calibration of the ScanGauge anytime there is a fuel system change. I've got to run this tank out and fill again to verify my calibration. But historically I've never been higher than 22.5% offset and never any lower than 9.2% offset. My current offset is 15.5% for the old RV275's so I'm not going o be very far off. +50 HP. This is the high point. 260 miles round trip plus city driving. After bucking a head wind home I dropped down to 23.5 MPG. Thunderstorms brewing as we traveled home. No IAT fooler was used. I had IAT temps ranging from 80*F-140*F the best MPG's came on after about 110*F then the numbers jumped good. As the wind and air cooled again then they slumped down slightly not much. But stayed above 100*F all the way home for IAT temps. From Ontario, OR to home. (120 miles)
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EB 2nd gear
Auto's typically only get 3rd and 4th gears for Exhaust brake function. Lets say my exhaust brake has the potential of actually locking up the rear tires in into a hopping skid. So I would have to agree with him...
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Oil leak reaching fan and blowing everywhere
Here is the article about the (KDP) Killer Dowel Pin http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/106-kdp-repairtiming-cover-leaks Here is the damage it does.
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Wild fires
Yup... We still got steel cylinders for SCBA's.
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Oil leak reaching fan and blowing everywhere
:think:There is only a few things that leak oil on these trucks. The tappet cover (or cam cover), vacuum pump seals, crank seals (front and rear). Double check the gear case (possible KDP?)Now as for the tappet cover gasket make sure its installed the right way. I just seen it here locally where a 94 Dodge owner installed it upside down and had it leak too. So be aware of the thicker side goes towards the engine. No RTV required. There is nothing really on these truck that require sealants or silicone.
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evil electrical issue need some serious back up
Ummm... I need you to do some more testing. * Load test the batteries (removed from the truck)* Load test the alternator (removed from the truck)There is no way to drop to 6V and keep the truck running. The minimum voltage required is 8 volts and then the truck will die. So I need you to verify with a DVM or analog volt meter that the battery voltage is actually falling off. You might check ground and positive feed lines into and out of the PDC (power distribution center) verify the power is actually reaching the ECM and PCM as 12 volts. Even with my alternator unhooked I still hold ~12 volts without a alternator.
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
I know... You've seen the box. He lists them as a 40-60 HP injector. Typically come out at about 50HP. They are all flow matched and pop tested before being boxed. I asked about the nozzle size and he said he'd have to get back to me on that later on. (Busy at the time). But I'm sure he be will to tell ya. Naw. It seem to run cooler in the EGT's but hard to tell from just the short trip. I'll see tomorrow what happens.
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
I can't release the price I paid for them since there is was a bit more to the deal. But I'm sure Eric would be more than happy to set you up and just tell him Mopar1973Man sent you along. I had a Search & rescue meeting tonight and cruise into Riggins, ID. I got to admit the ScanGauge is showing better numbers than the stock injectors even better than the 275's I had that were wore out. But I'll report more tomorrow night. I got to make a haul down to Ontario, OR.
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
UPS shows up at little after 12 noon. I start... By 2pm I fired up the truck. No priming required. This thing is stupid fast now. But my previous 5x3 Comp setting is still rather clean just a bit of smoke. Running really smooth at idle, EGT's are much lower that the previous RV275's. Bit of launch lag but OMG! When she lights you better hold on. Just tinkering around on a few straight stretches I was hitting 85 MPH in no time. I have to give Eric over at Vulcan Performance a big Thank You for the killer deal and the awesome product.
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Electric radiator fan?
Let's say that your A/C compressor adds more load than the fan does. Being the A/C compressor is constantly running compared to the fan that only locks up at high temperature and free spools the rest of the time. As long as the coolant temp is below 205*F the fan is free spinning for the most part.
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Back to stock injectors for a short time
Just looking at my old 275RV's +40HP they are a 7 hole. The new ones are suppose to be 7 hole as well but a +50HP. When there was a huge price difference between 50HP and 40HP of course I went with the 50HP being cheaper also Eric assured me he was going to pop test and flow match the +50HP for me where the RV's just get pulled off the shelf and shipped. :whistle:So I ended up with a bit more quantity of fuel, but get personal quality, and a super good price. How could you go wrong... :cool:Yes... Brown truck should be here today.
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Shift Point's
I rarely run mine high through the RPM's. don't get me wrong I play with the truck to and wrap it up tight now and then in the high 2K's but typical driving I rarely over 2K ever. Using the above videos... Economy minded... http://youtu.be/1EbH3g1_-eI When I'm playing... http://youtu.be/3JWnyRrHPPc Brakes I never touch the brake pedal till my road speed is below 25 MPH. It's all exhaust brake and down shifting.
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Wild fires
Snow? What snow? Most of our snow is all gone. We only got snow above 6,000 feet now. We're all wondering if we are going to get a typical high water or not. I'm already to cut firewood.
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2nd Gen 24 valve newbie questions
I use standard old green or yellow coolant from NAPA or WalMart. Nothing special is needed just make sure to keep the coolant change at 30K miles or 36 months. If you don't you'll be changing head gaskets and heater cores. Typically you just unscrew the lid and the filter comes out in the lid. Unsnap and snap in a new one. If you want you can refill the filter housing with can fuel so not to make a mess on the shop floor or driveway. I've got a wiring diagram on the site in the download area. I'll flip your access on for ya in the morning I'm really tired tonight. As for the transfer case seal. I've never done one yet. So I can't help you on that one.
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What cargo/tie down modifications have you made.
I've got a 2x4 box frame at the tail of my bed for common goods to keep them from sliding around the bed of the truck. I'll have to grab a picture tomorrow and post it up.