Mopar1973Man

They don't get any shorter...

Positive probe (DVM) -> Positive post of either batteryNegative probe (DVM) -> Negative post of either battery

I can tell you that dropping my old RV275's out and putting back in my stock injectors I lost about 3 MPG. My trip to Lewiston, ID I maxed out at about 17.5 MPG round trip. Hence why the replace are being purchased because the old one where just too pissy and misfiring to much at idle again so after seeing a few day of driving and the MPG is lower with stock I'm going back to +50 HP and should see the brown truck Friday. I know what I'm doing Saturday morning...

Nothing. You can't adjust the APPS sensor for the PCM. Also you should never adjust using the PCM voltage this will absolutely cause problems for the ECM then being the IVS (Idle validation switches) in the APPS sensor will be in the wrong mode. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment

I'd say you got lots of clearance.

Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. Check DC voltage then Check AC voltage. DC Voltage: 13.5 to 14.5 DC Volts (Passing grade)AC Voltage: Less than 0.1 AC Volts (Passing grade)If you get a instant 31 Volts AC your DVM is low quality and is not capable of measure different frequencies other than 60 Hz household. Oscilloscope is the best way to measure alternator output but not everyone has one.

What you need to test is load test and AC noise test. A really good bench tester will have the ability to test diode function and be sure its not leaking AC noise. Here is my homebrew test.

This all but done now. (Paid!)Thanks to Eric over at Vulcan Performance I got a killer deal on a set of +50 HP injectors that with be pop tested and flow matched before shipping.

It's all based on current weather conditions like trying to recharge a A/C system in a the dead of winter is going to have much lower numbers than charging A/C on a 100-110*F summers day. So I would hold for now and see how it performs on a hot day if the cycling problem returns then check your pressures again. Wild & Free is right there is a balance to how much liquid and gas freon you want in the evaporator too much liquid or too much gas and you lose the cooling abilities over a range of weather.

:cry:RV275's injectors are completely wore out and not worth pop tuning. The Nozzle and needles are all shot. Injectors are suppose to pop at 300 bar at least the shop I was at wanted 305-310 bar as a typical mark. Mine were pissy and leaking at 260-270 bar. Average pop pressure was 270 or so. So they are all firing low and early. This also accounts for the random misfire somewhere to because of the pissy nozzles. The guy was nice enough to show me a good used injector and how it suppose to hold up and they are worlds of difference. Then he showed me the pintle needle difference and what is normal and what isn't. Another tidbit learned was that injectors are typically short lived on rotary pumps like VE and VP44 compared to the in-line P7100 pump.So back in the box my dud injectors went and now off shopping for new injectors either RV275's or +50 HP injectors.

Hmmm... 3 gallons on the shelf in the shop if I remember right I might have to do inventory quick...

Yeah it about right on. Thing is as it get warmer in weather the pressure will increase. Now what is your vent temps like? You should see roughly about 35-38*F if the compressor stay locked.

Nice Truck... Seriously very nice truck! :thumbup2:Once again welcome to the family.

As long as the weather isn't too cold there isn't much harm you can do to it.As for fuel flow rates ISX should know the number roughly speaking.

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Some how you getting compression gases from the cylinder into the fuel system. The only 2 I know of is a copper shim on the injector is damaged or the head is crack allowing compression gases to leak into the fuel return rail. The other though is maybe this is all backwards. What if this is a vacuum you hearing? If the tank vent is plugged and the lift pump is pumping till the tank is pulled into a vacuum and quits. Then you open the filter drain release the vacuum and good to go. How about loosening the fuel cap and and see if the problem goes away?

If so he's possibly got... [*]Injector copper shim damaged [*]Cracked head Compression test on a hot engine possibly show it. Also checking if there is pressure in the fuel tank.

What fuel system are you running?Any drawstraws or similar? Something doesn't sound right though. Typically fuel system doesn't hold any pressure even long enough to get out of the truck and open the drain of the filter.Is this problem fairly consistent?

You should add enough to keep it from cycling. Even Sanden Compressor specs say it shouldn't cycle more than 3 time a minute other than that clutch damage can occur. Also too low on the low side during compressor operation will cause freeze up problems. A normal house refrigerator will have a low side of 2-5 PSI to get cold enough for the freezer. So over charging causes it to be warmer.Disregard the lines I goofed... But take notice to the temp on the inside ring for R134a you want the needle close to 35-40*F. 30 PSI is 28*F and will cause freezing hence why the compressor shuts down.

Compressor shouldn't cycle. It should remain locked up and solid. So the low side pressure is falling below 30 PSI and kicking out right? So that means you need more freon. Table included so you can get enough freon loaded up. I typically try for about 40 PSI on the low side. The only time the compressor should kick out is of the high side gets to hot and the pressure is well over 400 PSI or if the low side gets to cold and the pressure is below 30 PSI.

I try to get the cheapest things for brake pads in hopes to get the least amount metallic material in the pads. This will of course have weaker braking power vs. a high dollar pads but the lack of metallic material keeps from eating the rotors down to paper thin in a few years.I don't know what it is about me but I've only done one set of brakes on my truck since I bought it brand new. 2002 with 213K miles. The Mopar Mom's 96 with 149K miles I never done brakes on it yet and keep inspecting them though. This is a gasser truck and auto to boot. don't ask me but I normal drive in such a fashion that I don't need brakes very much. Even in Mom's gasser I use the trans to slow down with and use the brakes more so to stop me and hold placement that to slow from high speeds.

Isolator I would suggest you skip on. Most people end up removing it because it skews the reading of the gauge. A lot of times the isolator loses its antifreeze and the gauge drops out and the owner goes to panic mode not knowing if the lift pump actual died or the isolator died. Most times is the isolator but it will require removal and retesting. I've been direct plumbed for nearly 10 years and never had fuel leak in the cab. When your running air brake line with 600-800 burst strength I doubt a 10-20 PSI lift pump is going to cause it to leak not to mention its the very same stuff use for big rigs.Q: Why is it that people will direct plumb a oil pressure gauge from the engine with cheap nylon but go into panic mode when it comes to direct plumbing diesel fuel? :think:As with all plumbing connection I NEVER use any tapes or sealants. Automotive brass is self sealing and if done right it will not require any tape or pipe sealant. As with all my plumbing there is no Teflon tape or pipe sealant used anywhere. At least for me I don't have to worry about a small bit of tape or something flow to the injection pump and plugging it up.

Welcome to the family.As for the lights it seem there is more there. You might have to visually have to look it over to get a clue. Most of what you talking about is sent over the CCD network to the cluster for display. So I would start by checking grounds and wiring for damage.

I've never really worried about the air in the fuel too much. After a few WOT runs the air is long gone.