Mopar1973Man

Temp Gauge information... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4597-Anyone-know-what-the-factory-engine-temp-gauge-lines-actually-are?highlight=temperature+gauge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3181&d=1316638408 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3182&d=1316638423 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3183&d=1316638439

Typically when doing a cooling filling I will pull the thermostat out fill the block till it just about to run over and then assemble the thermostat and finish filling the cooling system. As for the rear of the block its slightly warmer but typically nothing that going to cause issues in normal operation.

Even with full temp 190*F my cap side will measure much lower. As for the up/down is a sign of sticky thermostat which may or may not get better with time. Some get worse. Normal if it warms up to 190*F and sits that's a good. Happens. Some people get lucky and some end up with crappy batch of thermostats. No it doing just fine because water pump failures are very very rare on these engines. As long as its below the other high side mark your fine (215-220*F) If it passed 225*F it will trip the Check Gage light and Check Engine light set a error code for excessive temp and then go into limp mode. No. There are some 12V engine owner that cut the fins off the pump to reduce coolant pressure and flow. Cummins water pumps rarely fail. But if it bothering you... you could pull it out and check.

apparently you safe because you would of had problems in the first year.

I've got 10 years from my factory batteries. Any lead acid battery that you keep maintained by topping with distilled water and keeping them charged you'll never have any problem with a lead acid battery. Most here know my house is battery powered by 24V battery bank costing about $3,800 to replace. So I'm a wizard when it comes to lead acid batteries.

Best example. http-~~-//youtu.be/il7iJCKfmaE

Well the original owner of Pureflow had the idea of producing a quality fuel system that would end most of the VP44 issues. Which it did. Now he sold the company and the new owner stepped in with a bunch of MIT students and ask to redesign everything. Now they have and created this issue. I've even gone as far as talking with one of the sales reps from Pureflow and told them of the issues and problems. All I got was, "We'll advise our tech dept of the issues." No other follow up phone calls nothing. Of course nothing happened either in regards to the pumps they kept producing the same thing cutting corners and skimping on quality looking out for the bottom line (profit).(Personal opinion)

His set is almost exactly the same as a harbor freight set.

Actually there is a goof on the 3/6 cyl mode switch in the drawing.

I've got a old school AirDog with over 5-6 years on mine. The new owners of Pureflow seem of made AirDog/Raptor into junk these days. Cutting corners in quality.

Stuff a resistor in the IAT plug and fire it up on a cold start (less than 140*F coolant temp)

I'm not even that bad... Geez... :sick:I might have a extra 10-20 Pounds but that just bad...

Hand drawn but it will work...

Same here... Good price and easy to get. Another battery I would buy is a NAPA battery absolutely nothing wrong with them.

Students in an advanced Biology class were taking their mid-term exam. The last question was, 'Name seven advantages of Mother's Milk.’ The question was worth 70 points or none at all. One student, in particular, was hard put to think of seven advantages. However, he wrote: 1) It is perfect formula for the child. 2) It provides immunity against several diseases. 3) It is always the right temperature. 4) It is inexpensive. 5) It bonds the child to mother, and vice versa. 6) It is always available as needed. And then the student was stuck. Finally, in desperation, just before the bell rang indicating the end of the test, he wrote: ( Scroll down) 7) It comes in two attractive containers and it's high enough off the ground where the cat can't get it.He got an A.

There is a way to daisy chain the MPG fooler into the IAT setup. I'll have to draw that one..

[*]High Idle - IAT/ECT fooler setup

:omg:Your serious... This isn't good.

Welcome to the family Moe...

Yes those are my 235/85 R16 tires... (70 PSI in the front and 60 PSI in the rear) Of course we hate to have to break out the file and sharpen chains because of rock damage. That serious firewood burner foul there! Yes those round were heavy even in half and yes we noodled them... That is Red Fir the prize firewood of the area. People treat red fir trees like gold mine you NEVER tell a friend even where you got it. As for that load it closer to 1.5 cords. I got in argument over the amount with the friend in the picture. He told me to split the pile and then stack it and measure the cords. In three fat loads like that totaled little over 5 cords measured... (Go big or go home... I went home big!) Point of reference look at the tree there is a 16" measure stick laying on the trunk of the fallen tree...

Here is the article about the CCD network. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus All the codes have a link going to the diagnostics of each one and explains what and how to fix.

Your a real firewood burner when you set your computer desktop wallpaper to show off the prized load.

Because of safety factors. With the high idle flash and box you still have all the safety system in place. The high idle will cancel with... [*]Touching the throttle [*]Touching the brake pedal [*]Placing the trans in gear (auto) [*]Speed above 0 MPH [*]Coolant above 170*F With a choke cable to hand throttle you can't use the exhaust brake as a warm up aid because the throttle is above 0% so exhaust brake is canceled. (virtual loading) Then also there is no 3 cylinder mode with choke or hand throttle which creates more heat than 6 cylinder. (virtual loading)

Ummm... Seriously Stodg is right. If you present it to her properly it will work. For the longest time I use to get the weirdest looks from MoparMom and debate what is needed for the truck to make it last. Well now there is no questions asked about after 10 years of ownership and 208K miles she has no problems with anything I ask for now because she understands my design and what I'm after.

Same here. There is a lot of sites with this kind of mind set of everyday competition with each other. As for the video I still this its a lame idea to even compare by chaining up. If you want to compare truck take them to the dyno or out to the quarter mile track and race. Not drag another truck around on a chain that's just stupid, wreckless, careless, etc...