Mopar1973Man

Maybe or maybe not... Depends on how hot the electronics might of gotten. It might be other things too. [h=2]Possible Causes[/h] [*] Wiring & Connectors [*] Fuel Injection Pump Relay Output Circuit Open [*] Ground Circuit Open Or High Resistance [*] Datalink (+) Circuit Open [*] Datalink (+) Circuit Shorted To Ground [*] Datalink (-) Open [*] Datalink (-) Shorted To Ground [*] ECM

(Sigh) The common display failure... It seems both Edge and Quadzilla both have the very same issues. The only suggest off the top of my head is check all wiring (disconnect and re-socket again). Slim chance that might fix it. Another thing you might try... I know the module is under the hood and might of leak water within might open the end and check the internals. Also this might be the cause of the low MPG's... Module was dying... :shrug:Truely sorry about the above post... :banghead:

Sorry... Didn't mean it that way.. But AFAIK this is a known issues with Juice modules from the beginning and I've not heard of end user fix for it yet.

Here is the diagnostics for the P1689 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 But typically the fuel flow stops or slows to point he the pressure falls below 14 PSI the overflow valve starts closing and the cooling fuel disappears so now the computer on the VP44 (FPCM Fuel Pump Control Module) start losing its cooling fuel and the electronics starting getting hot. Yes. I know there is a P0168 code for over temp but in all these years I've never seen 1 report of it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/155-p0168-decreased-engine-performance-due-to-high-injection-pump-fuel-temperature I consider the P0168 code worthless because you'll never see it.

I stopped by Harbor Freight and bought to 60 count boxes of fuses for like $4 bucks a piece on sale. These stay under the back seat...

Remember I'm in a different class of road and travel... :wink:Flatlander's please don't come to Idaho...

I wasn't sure about the trans port your going to use so I typically suggest against directly inserting the probe in an port. Don't want to block a piston from moving or restrict fluid flow. So if you create a small extender with brass then I think you'll be OK.Like you I replace my silencer ring as well I wasn't to found of listening to the whistling turbo towing over steep grades with trailer in tow. Personally I would look towards a performance module like Edge Comp or such that give you control over your fuel. Because RV275 will boost fuel and power slightly but you'll still have no control to it other than your foot. It nice to have performance box for the day of snow or muddy roads where you can retard the fuel flow to aid in traction. Things to consider.

I know this isn't a solution but... All you eggs in one basket problem... :banghead: This is the one reason I will not upgrade to a juice. I'd rather have separate gauges for boost, pyrometer, fuel pressure so the chip dies I just unplug the Edge Comp and keep rolling. In your case unplug the Juice and go blind you now lost your gauges too. Being you got military background you should know to keep a backup plan... As for the solution all I can say is call Edge products and see about getting it sent in for repair. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/44-manufacture-contacts/26-edge-products

Not to hijack you thread... But since its fire related...What happen was I had a lightning strike fire right across from my house and so I got smart grabbed the scanner and proceeded to listen. There is a fire station less than 1 mile from me. Guess what? There is no one there to man it any longer! The responding people came from Slate Creek, ID nearly 40 miles away! Plus USFS from McCall, ID 35 Miles away. I'm like OMG! This is a complete mess! I call the guy I've been working with try to help him out he didn't even know there was a fire in progress (no radios or pagers)! 2 Days later USFS and 1 man from Station 5 (Slate Creek) put out the fire.So never the less I made a few more phone calls and talked to the Chairman of the board and the acting fire chief (temporary). I was correct there is no one to respond from Station 1 which is 3/4 of mile from my house. I told them if they reinstate me back to my old rank (Station Captain) and allow a second man to join under me we'll man that station. Which getting reinstated is becoming a slightly administrative problem.So never the less I've been work with Station 2 and Station 1 for the last few weeks now repairing equipment, training people how to use the trucks, (Military 2 1/2 ton) in the mean time fixing station 1 and repairing my trucks and on top of it trying to get my equipment picked out again (radio, turn outs, etc.)

Good you did find then just follow the diagnostics the best you can and see if there is a wiring issues...Might also check that alternator voltage (AC and DC).

Here is how to install and calibrate the stock APPS sensor. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/35-apps-sensor-replacement-procedure Here is how to install and calibrate the Timbo APPS sensor. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing Thing is typically APPS sensor won't create a misfire. But VP44, injectors, or low fuel pressure most likely would.

That's impressive! Nice Salmon... Now are you going to smoke it?

For stock its about right it might vary depending on elevation and grades. If the Superchips is programming properly it shouldn't throw any codes no matter how high the boost gets. 35 PSI is as far as you want to go with a HX35 turbo. No. Because the tip of the sender will hang up the piston in the cylinder behind the test port. Best to be in the trans line or pan if you can. I wish I can find the article about that over on www.Idahoturbodiesels.com

Exactly... The 16's tires are really common out here. But as for the 17's they are not as common and most of the little shops out here don't stock them. Like Right now if I blew a tire I could drive to Riggins, ID (15 miles) and pickup a new 235/85 R16 tire I know they stock it. But as for 17's most likely I would have to place a order for it. Brakes... I got 185K from my OE brake pads. Why would I need to upgrade to 17" wheels and 3rd gen brakes? Exhaust brakes are wonderful tools!

I think he meant the elbow off the turbo that comes down and turns towards the intercooler. (Educated guess)

... or you'll be sitting a a stop sign holding the clutch in and have the truck start walking forward through the stop sign into traffic. Scary deal. I agree fix it as soon as possible.

... or just bump the starter and get the pump to run and test at that point. But that just a dead head pressure and no flow. True pressures is idle and WOT at highway speeds.

Raptor and AirDog's have the same kind of electrical hook up so it's all plug N play. The Bosch VP44 injection pump does require 70% of the fuel to be returned to the fuel tank for proper cooling and lubing of the VP44. The only way to do it is to keep the fuel pressure above 14 PSI all the time.Question do you have a gauge in the truck?

What some one needs to do is measure the amperage draw with cold fuel (near cloud point) and then set the fuse just above that amount of draw. Because warm fuel should be thin enough to keep it from even being close.

Article is here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing Just wish I had the tools to loan you... Even I don't have to test compression or leakdown.

Here is a few to dig back on... Drag Coefficiency https://www.google.com/search?q=drag+coefficiency&sitesearch=forum.mopar1973man.com

Click!..... Door is unlocked...

Could of broke the input shaft or the clutch hub? :shrug:He's going to end up pull the trans just so he can see what's up with the truck.

Welcome to the family and I see other family members have jumped in and started to get you straighten out. I tend to agree with then so far as a start...

With the A/C put a set of gauges on it and check the pressures hi and lo side.Transmission could be a valve body issue. Check your line pressure if you can. You might talk to Pepsi71ocean.Tach I would check the crank sensor lead and the routing of the cable going toward the damper in the front. Sometimes the cable gets rubbed but a pulley or damaged.