Mopar1973Man

98.5 to 2002 typically was 265's but when my door sticker was 245/75 R16. Still in all I count from 265's.

That is a stellar looking engine harness. Could you possibly tell me what you paid for that service? Being up here the ranchers tend to butcher the electrical and sometimes the only way to fix it is to just pull the wiring out and let @Auto Computer Specialistdeal with it. After seeing that above I'm sold... Very professional looking.

Too long on intervals. Aim for 75k tops. Long life is a joke being every cold start you dumping 600 to 700 amp over the coolant jacket and will charge coolant and start shifting the pH lower. Do not attempt to run the coolant to the limits. Either test with pH test straps or DVM. If you can measure voltage between battery ground and red probe just touch the coolant in the radiator then it getting time to change. 0.4 volts change is required 0.2 volts borderline.. keep an eye on it.

Trans temp lead is touching metal. There is one lead that is with a ring terminal. Make sure it's not touching and metal. I'm using the trans temp and engine oil temp. Just double check that wire.

Another trick idea. Add a ISSPro EV2 trans temp gauge, also order the optional relay for the gauge. Now program you fan on temp and the trans temp gauge will automatically control the fans for you.

The little kit that comes from heater treater has a 9V battery clip for testing the motor on the blend door unit. Most of the time the shaft breaks so the motor just keeps running push the blend door full hot, then one tick back it reverses and keeps turning making it cold. I had this exact issue last summer with a customer. The plastic shaft broke flat so it attempt to work but the motor kept turning so either full hot or full cold no middle ground. This is due no sense of limit (hitting a stop). Temp fix I did was pull the blend door motor set the temp for the customer by just moving the blend by hand. Then when the heater treater came in installed and tested making sure it hit it limit and stop. Be aware there is timing marks inside the blend motor if it not in time it will behave very strange. Yeah I've skip that step once and had the timing of and it foul the limits would almost act backwards cold is hot and hot is cold as it attempted to adjust temperature.

Look in the part number book. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Head over to heater treaters and get the blend door shaft. I'm pretty sure the plastic shaft broke and it not controlling the door correctly. Fairly easy to install. Pull the carpet back and cut a little square out of the foam padding. Using a Phillips screwdriver bit and a 1/4" wrench and remove the screws. Follow the calibration process of the gears and install again. It will work right again.

441k miles still running the OE water pump. The secret is frequent coolant flushes to keep the pH levels correct. What happen people don't flush the system often enough the pH level starts to drop on the acidic side and starts rotting the metals of anything the coolant touches. Now it starts eating the seals and once the acidic coolant gets into the bearing the water pump fails. No I've never used distilled water either creek water from my irrigation system or my well water. Again 441k miles still going on the OE water pump. No fancy coolant just NAPA green antifreeze or the yellow universal coolant.

Vulcan performance boots there is a little secret. What I found out the Zep Orange Degreaser will clean the pipe nipples and make the boot slick for a short time. Makes it super easy to install and place. When the degreaser dries it will lock the boots in place and never blow off or even slip. Nothing wrong with VP boots simple to install using my method.

No a problem. That what we are here for.

Good. Too many around me don't know that and don't know how to do a double flare. I've done a few long ago but I could if it need too, but I would practice first. Just wanna make sure on that little thing being when done a single flare typically it leaks for sure.

At least is can be repaired. I'm assuming you have experience doing double flaring right?

Might talk to @pepsi71ocean he's done brakes lines IIRC...

Could be worse. Driving along in McCall ID at 25 MPH and your coming up on stopped traffic... I started to press the brake pedal and have the ABS pump fight you. Once I overwhelmed the ABS system the light was thrown and I stopped the truck inches from the car in front of me.

Quadzilla first off. Then makes sure you have a good final ratio between 3.55 to 3.73 after tires. Then get ahold of me and I'll build you a good economy tune.

Super simple. Under the truck the drag link from the pitman arm to the right tire is the adjustment point. So drive straight up to the a parking spot and stop. Set the parking brake and dont lock he steering wheel. Now loosen the clamps on the drag link and adjust one direction or another till the steering wheel is centered. Tighten the clamp and test drive. Repeat if needed.

Microsoft overhead memory, CPU, and hard drive usage are huge. Most people running Microsoft Operating Systems are always looking for a little more speed being Microsoft overhead on CPU usage is huge. One of the few reasons I ditch Microsoft and moved to Linux, no longer have a boat anchor to hold the CPU down constantly running activation security software, antivirus, malware software, firewalls, constant reporting back to Microsoft, etc. Matter of fact I just rebuilt my roommate's PC from Windows 10 (Dell Laptop) to Ubuntu 20.04 LTS and she is very happy it 3 times faster to boot up and barely uses any memory at all. I've not had virus issues, malware issues, hacker issues, or defrag a drive in over 12 years. Ever since I dropped Microsoft products. Something Microsoft or Apple will NEVER do... Publicly list out the blueprints to the world. This is one of the huge reason why Linux is lighter machine load but strong protection over any other OS. https://blueprints.launchpad.net/ubuntu

We are restarting winter. Getting down to +25°F and already snowed another 2 to 3 inches. All week is suppose to snow maybe rain late afternoons. Global warming... doubtful being ive been freezing for over 7 months now. I'll be glad to see weather in the 70s and freezing nights are done and over. Still. Can't fire up water in the yard, can't prime the RV water system, can't leave my power washer outside, still ran down to a job to verify the engine block was dry so it didn't freeze.

How about an article on install and setup? How about listing the vendor you got it from in the vendor section? (Hint hint hint)

Just as you two see I'm working towards getting rolling by May for camp. I've got some RV repairs to do a well but now I'm slowed down with the snow again. Yup it just dropped another 2 to 3 inches last night. Making it wet and muddy to lay under the RV to do belly repairs. Still need to repair the tank cover I lost 2 years ago coming back from AZ.

Boy I need to update my computer really bad. I did all the plug in stuff like RAM, SSD hard drive (root folder) then a hybrid SSD/mechanical drive (home folder). 800 watt power supply. I just need motherboard, CPU, and updated RAM. I'm still running the same PC since, well 2006 or so. Ubuntu Linux 20.04 still seems fast and doesn't really slow down at all. I just keep replacing fans when the bearings fail. Replace hard drives when Ubuntu Linux reports SMART drive data has issues. I've got 16 GB RAM but only use 4 GB in worse case. Here is what I've got with live running data from both my webserver and local machine in real time.

Back when I last blew the head gasket. I sent the head in to be cleaned, checked, and surfaced again. When I got the back and installed my +150 HP injectors quite literally fell in the holes. The body o-ring was a bit small sides from the dirt or after cleaning up the head. I just finished up installing the injectors and hope for the best. Nevertheless, the o-rings create a prime loss problem every morning hard start, and white smoke even with block heater and grid heater. Nose down starts easy. I ordered a new set of o-rings then proceeded to lose the o-ring in Thor for 2 months. Then I found them again and hid them in Beast. So last Thursday I took the time to change the o-rings. I will say I was running that hot at some point the rubber was rather solid and not very flexible. Change all 6 o-rings in just under 1 hour. Didn't even bother with cracking 1, 3, and 4. Just fired it up rather easily. No fuel leaking on the manifold and stopped the air leak at the injector bodies. I've known I've had these injectors for quite some time now and my engine load at idle is slowly slipping away I'm now between 5 to 7% engine load at fully warm compared to brand new at 13%. I'm about half-life on the pop pressure yet but I'll be looking forward to getting rebuilt soon. I'm kind of itchy for the springtime warmth to return then I can get on to verifying my current tune and them building a towing tune so I can tow my RV down and catch up with @JAG1 and @IBMobile this spring.

That was still a very fun day even with the bolt dropped. I've been trying to promote people start getting together and sharing there knowledge here on the website but we also need to do it in real life with the people that live near us. This why when @First Diesel Middletoncalled me of course I'm going to do what I can to help out. This why members around the world come here for information and support for their Dodge Ram Cummins trucks. This why the member map was added so members can see who is around then and make connections with other members. Even like I told Michael about the 911 section and the map at least people can see where your at and then come to assist you. The phone number during registration is so I can help you out directly over the phone. Some time I know its going to be much faster giving a call to the member in need than posting 40 replies trying to get the info, and come up with the solution. Then like @Doubletrouble started a club of motorcycles. You can have a club of any topic you wish. Hence you might want to make a wrench party club for the state of Kanas, who knows but this why I built all this so you guys and gals can get help from other members in real life, over the phone or on the internet.

Well I got more repaired on the Caravan. New front windshield, new rear view mirror, new tires, rear left wheel bearing, front brakes, etc. Surprising the interior water leak was rust holes around the windshield glass. That's all fixed. As for fuel mileage is super good I've topped this 4,200 pound van to 25 MPG. Typically around here you'll see about 20 to 22 MPG. Oh for information value I did the weight on the axles a d calculated the tire pressures and it turned out 34 PSI in the front tires, and 26 PSI in the rear tires. Rides nice and tire wear is nice and flat so far. A/C was recharged, it is super cold all the way to the rear of the van. All the rear controls work good. Heat will fry you out, A/C will freeze you out. I know I'm coming up on an oil change soon, should do a full fluid dump. Power steering, transmission, brake fluid, coolant, and engine oil.