Mopar1973Man

Could you throw a link to this please?

Quick bit of math...34 Gallons x 128 = 4,352 ozs of fuel4,352 / 200 Ratio = 21.7 Ozs of OilSo this would be first dose... All following doses would be change the gallons to the amount pumped and it will figure out the oil amount...For example:14.783 Gallons x 128 = 1,892 Ozs of fuel1,892 / 200 = 9.4 Ozs of oil.Simple right?

This why I sunk my teeth into this one and held on for the ride. I'm tired of all the goofy and dumb ideas of chopping wiring, adding filters, etc. for a problem that should be corrected and not band-aided.So far I've mastered the VP44...So onward to the Tq Conv lock up issues!

As long as its between 4.5 and 5.5 then the go to next step... They want to verify you getting +5V signal to the APPS sensor nothing more...

Well as for noise and such if there is fluid in any of the cases check it closely for metalic debris (glitter). This will give the clue of what is going on. Debris or black graphite is a bad sign. :rolleyes:With all bearing it best to pull it out of place to check it. Like with U-joints pull the shaft out and move it in all direction feeling for binding or gritty feeling. Same with the center support bearing twist feel for loosen and binding.If the trans in neutral coasting does it continue or change?How about if you get it in to neutral of the transfer case?

Welcome to the family...First off the S&B cold air becareful with those kind of filters it doesn't take long for the media to wear out and be passing dust into the engine. If wash the wrong way you can be placing dust and dirt on the inside so when it dries the engine inhales it. As for fuel additive the only additive I use is 2 cycle oil nothing else. Cetane booster tend to reduce BTU content and MPG's. Injector cleaners tend to damage the injectors and pumps. But with CR engine it 200:1 ratio not 128:1. I would highly suggest you upgrade fuel filter to protect the injectors from damage.The biggest thing to improve MPG is to slow down! The second one is reduce your rotational mass/rolling resistance in other words use smaller tires with a narrow footprint.

Ok... Power is supplied from the RED heavy gauge wire for the trailer plug. (40A) Ran through a relay and triggered by the exist backup lights. So normal reverse light come on automatically. As for in the cab I have a over ride switch in the cab which allows me to flip on forcably and light up the ground and hitch in the dark... Full write up here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/76-backup-lights

I've got the Jacobs Exhaust brake on my truck which accepts the 3" stock down pipe. Also the EB is ran off of vacuum using a solenoid valve to control vacuum. As for 4" exhaust I've not found a reason to upgrade to 4' pipe yet. I'm getting excellent MPGs roughly 22-23 MPG... EGT's are very controllable with my Edge Comp and RV275 injectors so why mess with it.

That's just wrong...

True the 12V (2nd Gens) where awesome truck and awesome MPG's but that was all design to fit together and work together. But now take old technology and put on new technology engine and expect the same outcome. It will never happen. Way too many variable to get that kind of MPG out of Frankenstein... Like me in stead of Ppumping the truck I learn how to get close to what you guys have in 12V... Not exactly 27 MPG but close to 24 MPG for a truck that weight another 1,000 pound more than early second gen I say not bad..

Alternator diodes. Like I just got off the phone last night with Chad (another member here) talk to him about his alternator and TQ conv and surging problem. So far what is happening is new alternator fixes the problem but in about 4-5 days the problem comes back. But now while the problem is occuring the AC voltage is jumping as high as 53 VAC but VDC is holding steady at ~14.x volts. But now take the alternator fuse out the problems are gone. So now we are trying to figure out what is causing alternator failures that are burning up the diodes. The only thing that comes to mine is the grid heater hanging up longer that it should putting alot of stress on the diodes. (Shoot from the hip and this unproven as of yet). Chad promised that as soon as he figures it out he's going to post his videos and testing results with us...

Never could understand the desire for Ppump conversion on every truck. There is so much drivablity with CR fuel system vs. static timing P7100 pump. Then like Rogan points out all the electronics that need to dealt with somehow. I say it best to look forwards and learn how to better what you got than trying to go backward in time retrofitting older fuel system parts to a newer engine.

Hmmm... Need something to break away from stock timing... Get the timing curve more aggressive like a programmer. But I don't think they produces programmers for those little cars?? (Or did they?)

Don't worry... I'm just...

Trick... Pull the coolant sensor (ECT) lead and allow it to trip a check engine light and Check gage light. Then rehook up the sensor then clear the codes... Weird problem with Dodge ECM/PCM combo's I see the same thing sometimes with P0500 codes I can't erase.. So doing the above will allow the tool to actual erase the code. Don't ask why its this way I don't know but I know the above trick works.

I still run the factory 190*F thermostat and no issue with coolant temp. Climbing grade I do see about 208*F but that is still very serviceable. Fan clutch is a big deal. I would make sure it locking up and pulling more air through the radiator once again it can pull air through if the face is plugged up with dirt, oil, and grime. Even CajFlynn our Million mile truck owner will tell you there is no reason to exceed 60-65 MPH while towing anywhere in the USA. He tows cross country through just about every state there is with large boats. Typically he keeps his speed down and never allow the boost to climb more that 20 PSI on any grade. If the boost has climb above that he just slows down and follows the truckers. CajFlynn's 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 53 Block over 1.2 MILLION miles hauling boats. If this man can do it day in and day out no reason you can't...

Like myself...* AirDog 150 (17 PSI @ WOT and 19 PSI @ idle)* BHAF* RV275 Injectors* Edge Comp (Set to KILL 5x5)* Straight Pipe 3"* HX35 Turbo (Elbowed to 35 PSI) * Jacobs Exhaust brake Mount to the turboTowing I can max out at 1,400*F if I was to stomp to the floor. But normal every day driving I see roughly 500-700*F rolling along at 55-60 MPH. So I'm not sure what you need to upgrade it more or less relearn you driving behaviour and most of the problems are driver induced...

Nice systems from what I've seen of them but in my case the would be crushed in a short order. Here is my crushproof lighting system. Cost a fraction of the price and come with 100W not 55W...

Finally broke under $4 in Idaho Payette, ID $3.989 for diesel.But up here in New Meadows, ID its still $4.109...

A/C compressor stay on full time. Temp knob had no bearing on the A/C compressor. But it will blend heat into the air...

See I told you... So if you want to control heat (EGT's or Coolant) take your foot off the throttle and allow the truck to do it job without being rushed. Now all you got to do is catch up to my MPG marks now so far I'm averaging 13-14 MPG (towing) 22-23 MPG (empty). Something none of thought of is a boost leak... :banghead:

Dang... There isn't any buses up here in this part of Idaho so I guess I'm safe... :lmao2:As for the input shaft and flexplate I don't see the need for upgrade really. But as for the TQ converter that is what is going to take a beating. If the clutch is weak it will slip. Then you know you got to drop lockup to gear down and then hit lockup again to gain Exhaust brake function. I know the 47RE trans has a history of weak input shafts and flexplates but I don't see anything that the exhaust brake is doing more that acceleration to exhaust braking. But I'll have to bow out of this one being I'm not a auto guru...

That is a PITA... I was hoping you had a wall that you could say peel open and add a stud to. But with cabinets on one side and tub on the other just ain't happening easy. I heard of several people managing to peel open walls and adding studs for there new flatscreen TV's. Easy no... But it can be done...

MAX A/C is the only position that closes off the outside air and recirc the cabin air. All other positions use outside air. Recirc ....................... MAX A/COutside Air ................ A/C, Bi-level, Vent, Floor, DEF/Floor, DEFA/C Compressor ON .... MAX A/C, A/C, Bi-level, DEF/Floor, DEF