Mopar1973Man

Are you talking like HHO cells where you create hydrogen gas from water?I can't say that I have been you got to keep one thing in mind you don't get something for nothing. With that being said if it is the HHO cells your talking about you'll most likely find out that you put more load on the alternator trying to produce a very small amount of hydrogen gas.

That's a sweet idea Russ. :cool:I end up cussing mine out every time because the regulator would fall on the shaft and now you need 3 hands to get it back together. Good idea!

Be aware auto-ignition device like the refer and water heater work off of flame rectification to detect flame is burning or not. So if the spark electrode is corroded and the burner tube then the refer might be trying to light and can't see the flame so it shuts down instantly to prevent explosion hazard. Back to a older post Russ... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4158-Norcold-refridgerator-propane-operation-trouble

Here is what I've got in my RV made by Progressive Dynamics Intellicharger... http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/rv_conv/rv_converter_pd9140a_2.html Also have the charge wizard installed... http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/charge_wizard_9105.html

Funny... I've got a tube of blue loctite here which I rarely ever use. I just torque the fastener down to it proper ft/lbs number and not bothered with locktite. My truck is still holding together...

Check this out I've been wandering through the database of applications for Ubuntu (Synaptic Package Manager) and stumbled across a cracking tool for hacking wireless signals. Produced for Linux... http://www.aircrack-ng.org/ This is why I really don't believe in wireless Internet nor like using it...

Here you go... This is what I got on the tongue of the RV. Just standard old deep cycle batteries what ever group they are. RV is moved for the summer to the shade of the trees but there is no power back here so once a week I bring out my 2kw genny and charge up the batteries for one hour.

Please don't assume just because you replace the pump every thing is good... Like this poor soul found out his AirDog 150 wasn't up to the job when he installed his fuel pressure gauge... http://youtu.be/NB8o24rw1eU

You might look and find out what you got for a battery charger. I've got a 3 stage battery charger (storage, normal and boost) which happen to totally automatic. So after a period of time the charger turns to storage mode.As for the refer the only thing it needs is enough power just for the controller. Last time I test ran mine with no shore power it ran over 14 days on propane and the batteries where just dipping in the 11.8 volts range. Just two standard RV Deep Cycle batteries.

First thing I would do is load test the batteries in the RV. Corroded cable are not a good thing either. :rolleyes:Curious... Did you keep the RV plugged in all winter to keep the batteries charged or are you removing the batteries and putting in a garage to maintain a charge on them? If the batteries where left in the RV and not charged the winter cold might of sucked a chunk of life from them. Hence one of the main reason I added a cutoff switch in the power cabinet. So if I'm no longer able to maintain a charge on the batteries I can cutoff all the little loads like the house stereo, propane alarm, etc. Because even after a week or two my batteries are pulled down to 12.0 Volts without a outside source to maintain a charge.

Welcome to the family...

Maybe you should talk to some of the big hauler here on the site like CajFlynn. There is a few guys here that haul heavy every day. Like myself I haul firewood all summer long.

Correct 2002 MAP sensors are no longer produced so you end up with a 2001 Sensor and adapter as seen in the second picture.

Oil cooler is behind the oil filter in the block.

That tells me the alternator most likely has bad diodes when you cover the lead with tinfoil (bandaid) you proved without a doubt your alternator is creating said AC noise. http-~~-//youtu.be/UveGtGuswBw

No. Because as long as its locked up it will not gear down it will remain it what ever gear its in.

Ended up running back to McCall, ID today for some other stuff and still keeping the MPG's nice and high... http://g.co/maps/5syup

2002 left and 2001 on the right.2001 MAP sensor with 2001 to 2002 adapter.

I've been using 30 ft/lbs to assemble the injection body. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/62-injector-cleaning

This isn't even a diesel... This is a 5.9L GASSER! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3978&d=1336440372

It's worth it... At least I think so...

Another run to New Meadows, ID to aid a 1992 Dodge Cummins with a leaking return line... http://g.co/maps/5syup

WARNING! Becareful of how you do this! You might want to call the manufacture of the trailer on proper jacking / jackstanding of your trailer! I've seen some bad post where people did it wrong and damage interior walls, cabinets, doors, etc from frame twisting and improper location of the jackstands. On mine I not to worried I got square tube frame and I would jack up both axles and place a jackstand just behind and forward of the leaf springs on the frame. This is to try to load as close as possible to the axles as it was designed. Saturdays?!?! Those are missing on my calendars... Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Fri, Sun (gotta go to church!) Got beer in the fridge but never enough time to drink it... :banghead:

Sorry for your loss... It truly sad to lose a family member to cancer. I'll make sure to say a few prayers for your Mom.I lost my step father to cancer back in 2004 he only lasted 76 days and pasted away. I also did the hospice as well and kept him at home.

Very possible... Now if he's not running a box I would say its very possible. Like Just using a Edge Comp with stock injectors is 120 HP and the EGT's are very managable. But stacked with a box it should be insane...