Mopar1973Man

I found this little video and might be educational to some of you...

Lift pump is junk... Time to replace it...Minimum pressure is 10 PSISuggested Minimum is 14 PSI for longevity reasons.Maximum (Undocumented) pressure is 20 PSI.Normal pressure fall from idle to WOT at highway speed 2-3 PSIMax Pressure fall from idle to WOT at highway speed is 5 PSIHere is a quick video I did last summer... No comments about sucking a air bubble...

At the head... Crack 1,3,4 and then crack the engine till fuel spray is seen. Dribbling on the manifold doesn't count... Remember that Bosch VP44 injection pump can produce at minimum of 4,500 PSI at idle and upwards of 20,000 PSI at WOT. But the Bosch VP44 injection pump can't pump air very well so hence the engine won't start.

So now try the repiming the fuel system...

The lift pump can run a extra 5-10 seconds after the key is shut off. So if it running beyond 30-60 seconds then the ECM is screwy...

Well as for the lift pump it might be slipping the rotor head or the fuel regulator internally is stuck open. So you have to weigh that into your diagnosis.Double check to make sure no wires and pinched during the transmission work.

So I would put it all back together and then hook up a fuel pressure gauge and take it for a drive and see what happens. The fuel pressure gauge will tell you the story. Now are you running a stock lift pump in the side of the block?

Well the only way that will happen is you'll have to pull the pump off and send it into a place that has the test bench. There are very few places that actually have the VP44 test bench...

Easier to just remove the VP44 and everything else... I know it not a fun job but you'll be much happier keeping the oil in the crankcase...

Bump the starter and it will give you 25 seconds of 12 volt signal.

Ouch... P1688 code is a death code for the VP44 and it was cause from lack of fuel pressure so since the fuel pressure drop low most likely you lost the cooling ability for the electronics and burned them up. So you going to need... [*]Fuel pressure gauge [*]New Lift pump (Suggest a Raptor or simular) [*]New Injection pump As for the fuel pressure gauge, injection pump and lift pump all the vendors here are willing to help out and get you supplies. Check out the vendors forum. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

Head over to Vulcan Performance hes got a good deal on BHAF filters. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm As for for the outer wears you'll have to do some creative design work to make a craddle for the filter to sit in so it doesn't wear holes in the outerwears. I had one and the washboard roads of Idaho wore holes in mine in less than 6 months... The filter minder is just a plastic barbed fitting. Use a little WD40 around the neck working into the grommet and with a screwing action back and forth it should come out. Then you should be able to remove the grommet.

There has to be some difference between driving and high idle with a exhaust brake. Because the fact driving you phyiscally demanding the engine to push the truck along but with high idle you creating a virtual load by partial plugging the exhaust and creating pumping resistance. The effect is the overlap of the valve blows some of the exhaust back in the manifold warming the manifold slighly also with the exhaust brake you trapping the heat in the engine without blowing it out freely. Just my 2 cent right or wrong...

As for the high idle software the Smarty will do it but I don't think you get to keep the tire calc. Talk to Prowelder here on the site he's building my design... High Idle Fooler Set-Up for Sale!!

Ok... I need to clear up something a bit more when you checking the voltage at the lift pump plug where you cranking on the engine or was that just a starter bump? Reason I ask is the lift pump circuit from the ECM will be PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) during cranking 50% duty cycle and straight 12V on starter bump withthe engine running.As for the lift pump ground its hidden behind the starter.

Welcome to the Idaho family... Nice to see other Idaho people too...

As for the cruise that only work for the later 2nd gens with electronic cruise contrl and not the mechanical vacuum motor. As for the IAT the only time that gets dirty is when you got a exhaust brake. Non-exhaust brake truck typically don't have a issue with either IAT or MAP sensor.

Yeap... Its a cam cover gasket and its about $25 from Napa...

I think 31 is a connector...Fuseable links are just forward of the starter relay and the starter relay should be mounted on the driver side fender.

David is right we need to get a bit of information from the truck in the form of error codes and fuel pressure to see where we are at.

Are you going to buy a pop tester and quit your job? :pant:Seriously with your talent and skill for the older 12V truck if you had both a pop tester and a compression gauge you could make some money doing diagnostics and such...:thumbup2:But I need to bring the thread back to topic again of OP... As for starting smoke a puff of any color is normal but as for continueous smoke of blue/white color is not good.

CumminsDieselPwr -><- Mopar1973Man Ouch... (Rubbing hiney)

Wiring diagram is a bit crude but it should help out...So check the starter relay and then check to see if there is 12V from the yellow lead from the ignition switch... It might also be a safety switch like clutch or auto trans safety...

Are you getting 12V to the solenoid terminal when the key is turned to START position? Possibly a key switch issue. But you could do a voltage drop test...

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