Mopar1973Man

From about 1,500 to 2,000 RPM's is your torque curve pass 2,000 RPM the torque start heading down hill on most trucks and the HP starts to flatten out some. Remember this is just rule of thumb guys/gals... I know some of you can provide dyno sheets with torque going well into the 3K catagory.

I've seen several good ideas here already for installing axles seals...

As for the 22 PSI it unknown...You have to remember the orignal design was setup for 14-16 PSI which was the stock carter lift pump.As for the lift pump shutting down it normal. It called PWM (Pulse Wide Modulation) where the ECM command a on time and a OFF time in rapid series. With VP44 with torn diaphragms more people rig up a relay to cut the fuel signal during cranking because the VP44 will be hypersensitive to fuel pressure. But this condition is caused from running too low of fuel pressure.

From my article base... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29:antilock-braking-system-abs&catid=23&Itemid=107 Mopar's Notes: P0500 Error Code - Explained Since 4 wheel anti lock brakes rely on 2 front axle sensors and 1 rear wheel sensor. The CAB is watching the speed output from all 3 sensors at one time. So when on a slick surface like ice, gravel, wet pavement, etc. when you accelerate rapidly and cause the rear tires to spin the rear speed sensor jumps up in speed rapidly and the front 2 sensor could be at zero speed yet. So the CAB can't understand how the rear half of the truck is doing say 35 MPH and the front half is doing 0 MPH. POOF! P0500 code is thrown.

Well I can pass you off to another gent over on www.dieseltrucksite.com goes by the name of csynder he does conversions all the time with 12V and 24V in different bodies... His profile over on diesel truck site http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/member.php?u=44

Well that why I suggest the compression test because at least you'll get some sort of answer to this problem. Easier than pulling a head but tough to find the right tools to do it. (Test injector and compression gauge). But the guys are right if there is compressor blowing into the crankcase that badly it would push oil out anywhere...

Actually the majority of the reutrn flow is the overflow valve which is pinned open after 14 PSI this why there really no reason get get carried away with fuel pressure. Because after 14 PSI your just flooding the return line with fuel pressure racing back to the fuel tank. Now remember your supply line is 1/2" and your return lines ar 6mm (roughly 1/4") so eventiual you get to a choke point where the return line start gaining pressure because of it tiny size. Since there isn't a big line return kit with oversized overflow valve its just not going to work quite right...

:lmao:Really? Scrutinized?! Replaced?! Oh you got to be kidding... The local fire dept can't afford to replace anything. Let alone replace a truck. The oldest truck they had in service during my time was a 1951 International water tender (labeled a engine) and it was slower than a snail (top speed 45 MPH) and all gears had to be double clutched (no syncro's). Then we move up to the 1960's millitary 2 1/2 ton truck classed as water tenders (Top Speed of 50-55 MPH). Then The newest truck there is a 1994 Chevy 6.5L Diesel 3500 (Fast Attack) with 300 gallon water tank. I got tired of servicing 24 fire trucks in 6 different stations every week for absolutely NOTHING! No money! NOTHING! I had to use my own tools and my own truck most of the time too... They hoped in the truck and pedal to the floor without warm up time. The only time that was stopped is if the truck got air brakes then you had to wait for the air to build up just to release the brakes. Sorry to hijack... As for my truck its had a life of luxury now it stays in the garage just below me which is just above freezing most of the time. But yes it does get enough idle time to build a bit of warmth before hauling off. Thing that does bother me is being hitched up to the travel trailer and it still gets idle time before I haul off but the fact most times out of ten I'm hauling the trailer up hill towards New Meadows, ID so it tough to be light when you go from in the yard to 55 MPH speeds hauling up hill. I will admit the engine warms up rather quickly seeing 800-900*F pyrometer temps...

Very well said Katoom... :smart:My last post seems that I'm in a bit of a hurry and drive off... Typically not. I'm the type to fire it up and gather stuff for the trip being tools for a job, trash to haul to the dumpster, etc... By the time I jump back in the driver seat it had that chance to lube up everything and settle down a bit...Back in my not to distance past I ran a few time out the door to fire call and hauled arse down (not speeding mind you!) to the fire station which is only 1 miles away. I'm kind of glad I'm no longer working the fire dept for that reason... I'm sure its hard on the truck.

I snagged that from Competition Diesel forum...I saw the movie and was very impressed and thought about you guys here so I brought home so you all can enjoy... Sorry no... This was a shot in the dark find as is...

This is for starting temps below +32*F...I typically fire up and set the high idle mode (3 cyl or 6 cyl) set the exhaust brake. By the time I gather up things for the day and load them in the truck its about 100-120*F on the ScanGauge II. I take off. Being light throttled till I reach about 160-165*F of coolant temp then let her have it... "Kick the Pig!" :lol:Above 32*F...I just start the engine and drive... I don't even wait for the light or anything jusrt crank and go... Still being mindful of the coolant temp till about 160-165*F then "Kick the Pig!"

I think this article has earn the right to be transfered over to the tech articles.

Yes... And the 98 dash is different from the 99 dash...

It really common for those people that never change coolant till the coolant is rust or discolored. As for me I change coolant every year and flush the block. I usual catch the ones complaining about heater core issues haven't change coolant in many years or hundreds of thousands of miles...

Here you go guys and gals. A 10 minute video explaining the entire fuel system of the 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. It shows operation of the lift pump, filter, fuel heater, VP44 and injectors. Someone really out did themselves on this video! http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i443/TannerSpangler1/?action=view&current=Cummins_ISB.mp4

Either the heater core is plugged up or the blend door is not operating properly. If the heater hoses are both hot then the heater core is plugged up. Normally one of the hoses should be a bit cooler that the other.

Sorry being late to the party... Here is the instrument cluster wiring for a 98...

My last haul of the season I was pulling 14.1 MPG hand calculated for the trip with 16,080# GCW. (~7,800# Trailer)Speed is still a huge factor in trailer hauling wind drag is still wind drag and RV is a huge box rolling down the highway cutting through the wind. I normally tow at 55-60 MPH. I know that Idaho laws states that no trailer maybe towed any faster than 65 MPH (PERIOD!). This is utility trailer, RV, or semi-trailer... Also Idaho laws states that there is no minimum speed limit so I may travel as slow as I personal want or what is safe for weather / road conditions. Also most all trailer tires (ST's) are rated for only 65 MPH beyond this your asking for a blow out! So what is it going to hurt cutting 10 MPH off my speed and relaxing while I haul my RV to it next destination? Less chances of a tire blow out. Better MPG's. Lower EGT's. Less stress on the driveline...

Ok here is the wiring map for ya... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/wiring/1999-Dodge-Wiring-Pg3.jpg Then here is the P0113 diagnostic... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=147:p0113-intake-air-temperature-sensor-voltage-too-high&catid=59&Itemid=107 Then the High Idle diagnostic. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:high-idle-mod-diagnostic&catid=26&Itemid=107 I think I got you covered...

Something is wrong...If the IAT is going to -40*F then the IAT lead is open and should be tossing a IAT high volt code.

I've talked to a lot of you about how short my daylight hours are because of the deep canyon I live in and how late it is for the sun to come up over the mountain and then how quickly its sets over the west side mountain... Well here is a place that only sees 3 hours of daylight rioughly.

Interesting conversation between ISX and Katoom... Might have you two compile that conversation into a write up...

Time to replace it with a ScanGauge II...

Got the thread moved for better exposure...

Mr. Mindless is right is a really short frame stub in the front with a weird angle of the dangle...