Mopar1973Man

CPP from what I heard has some issues with the company. Might wanna pick another provider.

Yeah I know... It's not fun we managed to get the passenger side house window removed. Had to fix the center post since the rivet rusted out and the glass strip was crushed under the glass. Rebuilt a majority of the passenger wall now and got the window re-installed in the wall just before weather started to change on us. Being it snowed last night and more snow on the way this week it might just close down our efforts for a bit.

Like this morning waking up to about 2 inches of fresh snow. Then to fight global warming it just nice warm +22*F outside at 7:40 MST.

If you see smoke your typically too advanced and too heavy in fuel. Remember without wiretap the Quadzilla is only 60 HP tuner. If you had the wire tap I'd have it setup to ramp at the start of the rise from 100% CanBus. That being said I can build more power yet. If you want smoke turn all the CanBus to 150%.

Here soon I'll have a Dodge Caravan for a get around vehicle once I get some work done on that vehicle. Hey I can't complain when I'm sitting on a vehicle I paid nothing for and have a title for as well.

Waiting on the injector body o-ring to come from @dieselautopower... Soon as they come I'm going to change all those o-rings. This morning to get the truck started it was getting rather tough. Grid heater working fine but when the fuel pressure gauge sits at ZERO as your cranking I know there is air in the fuel system. Stand by I'll keep you all posted.

I've got to ask other members here, "what your are seeing for winter weather?" Here in Central Idaho we've seen snow storm blow over but not drop much snow in the valley floor. The mountains around me are dusted in snow. Nothing deep once again. The temperature has dropped to 24*F above. Everything is frosted this morning and cold. Now I've talked to a friend down in the Parma area and he's had already a good 2 to 3 inches of snow but next day melted off.

Looks good. Like I said give it a try. Be gentle at first till you know how it doing Any smoke or knock changes are thing to be aware of.

Give it a try. Just mind the smoke and sounds. Excessive timing will produce more rattle. Excessive fuel will show in smoke. Just remember that need timing retard to build boost. Don't forget.

Quadzilla is turned off. Doing nothing your running strictly on the ECM. Try this maybe?

Purely a band-aid fix for the pressure vs crack issue. Still be best get the radiator ASAP and fresh cap. I get it there is life and shipping is slow so sometimes you just gotta do the shade tree mechanic tricks to butter over till parts, money or time are available to do the repair proper.

Yeah that would be optimal but hes such a long was from here and at least I've got Mark which has done several interior repairs and water leak repairs. Kind of racing against time with weather and temperatures. Lucile area is about another 1,200 feet lower than my place I've already seen temps as low as 26*F here. Lucile is more rain than snow and typically stays above freezing but not always.

I've been working down in Lucile, ID on an RV. The RV is a 1979 South Wind with a Chevy 454 CID. This RV had been parked for over 13 years up Race Creek Road. Then Jim bought the RV for $700 dollars. Quick re-cap I got busy fixing the engine enough to drive it from Race Creek to Riggins, filled with fuel, and drove out to Lucile. Now, this winter I started working on it again but now doing water damage repair. I brought a friend in Mark Hall to help out. So now the RV has water leaks from both the roof and from around the awning. After cutting into the wall from the inside and inspecting everything we opened up quite a bit trying to get to solid wood and steel frame. Spent pretty much an entire day just tearing out the cabinets, seating, and a table. Just to get access to the wall. I'll get photos tomorrow when I'm back at work on the RV. Never know what I might be working on next...

Not much you can do with a aluminum core. Nothing but aluminum can be welded to it.

Nope it will leak out. You'll need the second step to seal. Caps are cheap and if you just break off the vacuum valve it holds no pressure but loses no coolant being it just pushed into the coolant reservoir.

The biggest thing that made a huge improvement was the W-T ground wire mod. Ac ripple is now about 11mV AC. Since then I quit having alternator issues completely.

Make sure to clean all rust and black oxidation off the terminals. If you want to never clean them again just keep them moist with engine oil. That's all.

I vote for dirty terminals. Most likely would say it was during starting the engine and being it takes about 500 to 700 CCAto turn over. Being the connection was dirty and high resistance yup it will melt lead.

Yeah even myself I'm also fighting the hard start in the mornings because of loss of prime in the fuel system. I'll admit when I did the head gasket last time I notices the crossover tubes and the injectors went in rather easy without much force. What I've done so far is change the crossover tube o-rings. I've just ordered a set of o-rings for the injector bodies. I ordered a second set for extras to have on hand for customer rigs. I just rolled Beast back into the shop and started doing an inspection of the head area for weeping and appears to be dry. I really need to roll the power washer out and give the engine a good washing down with degreaser from all the scattered oil and fluids. Get a bbetter picture of what is actually leaking or not. My morning starts have been long winded and rough starting. Lots of white smoke but once the lines are cleared it starts good all day long with no smoke or anything. Yeah I need to just put the wrench time on my own truck now.

Might of needed just to loosen the line holders a bit and allow them to move into place better. Last set I got that was technically new but laying in the cab of a truck I had to assemble one at a time them place the holders back onto the lines. They lined up perfectly. Just because the lines are assembled doesn't mean they were placed right in the line holders.

Here you go. Some info...

0 to 3 is where you run the Quad. You can run higher but the wire tap is not present so no extra fuel is provided. 0 - Stock 1 - Valet mode 2 - Stock Fuel with timing 3 - CanBus Fuel with timing

I'll jump in with you. I'm in the same problem right now with my own truck as well. After I did my head gasket the last time I notices that crossover tubes and the injectors went back in rather easy without much force. I'm betting my issues is just the o-rings. I just finished the o-rings on the crossover tubes. I just got off the phone with @dieselautopowerand ordered 2 sets of injector body o-rings. Now beyond that for things to look for is... Return banjo at the rear of the head. The sealing washers might be bad and leaking. Return tee at the rear of the engine with bad o-rings. Bad quick connect seals in supply or return at the rear of the engine. AirDog pump with quick connect leaking air in. You might try a bit of grease around the stem to see if it temporarily seals.

No. Only as a band-aid fix for cracks or leaks. Even blown head gasket (coolant leaking out) as long as there is no pressure you could possibly get away with that band-aid for quite some time.

Cut the vacuum valve off the radiator cap. No pressure means less of a leak. Now maybe epoxy would hold up as a patch.