Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the family.Most of what you listed out as a goal can be done. As for the dead pedal issue 2 things are needed fuel pressure and error codes to verisfy things.I'm not much of a auto trans guy but there is others here that can bounce on that problem better than I can.As for parts and pieces you might want to check out a few of our vendors and see what they got for prices...

OMG! Maybe USFS (US forest Service) could quit lighting control burns out here and filling the sky with orange haze from all the smoke. I believe the planet is self healing in a lot of respects. Like everything has a balance and will renew everything to that balance. But flood or offset that balance it might take some time for it to over come the in-balance. (like a forest fire). Now with all the horror stories of health impacts its the same way. I'm out in shops and dynos where the shop is flood with diesel soot. Yeah I know its not exactly healthy but geez... Just like working in a forest fire for over 25-30 day in thick smoke. I didn't drop dead nor did any of the other fire fighters. Carbon foot print... Get real... Once again get after the US Forest circus... Nice tree torch from Poe Cabin, Idaho Fire (US forest Circus set the fire!) I better get off my soap box...

That's odd...

Ok give me a bit I'll see about getting it slammed back into the server again. --- Update to the previous post... Sorry I'm going to have to delay the chat program for a day or two till the local phone company straightens out my internet connection. My DSL modem is being very wild and changing constantly. I'm scheduling to get a new modem here really soon. So with this wild modem it near impossible to upload the files without the files getting corrupted in transit... :banghead:

I personally think idling has a lot to do with environment that it does with anything else. Look at northern part of Canada and Alaska most vehicles are left running 24 hours a day to hold temp up other than that extreme cold takes it toll on getting started again. Now on the flip side of the coin you guys down there in south that have very mild weather shouldn't have to worry about warm up much at all. Like right now here in Idaho its been so mild I've not bother idling much just fire up and get rolling. Once again don't get me wrong by the time I get the truck out of the garage and close the door it had plenty of time to pump oil around.

ISX you going to have to come up with something a bit un-biased than that link...

Hell yeah... That looks awesome...

So lets here it... Who wants it back?

Waiting patiently for the report...

Stock is 6mm ID... 1/2" (12.6mm) ID which is a bit more that double in size... 1/2" lines typically can keep fuel pressure at about 2-3 PSI fall from idle to WOT. Compared to stock lines which is more like 5-10 PSI drop.

The chat software crashed so I quietly removed it back in Aug 2011 and now you guys just figured it out... :doh:But I guess I can load it back in rather easy...

Check this out guys and gals... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5062-Profile-usage?p=45835#post45835

Don't ask... :rolleyes:I take the largest drill I got (which is a 1/2") and ream it out any old way I can. (Gunt, cussin') Never the less the hole is close and the grommet is tight...

But now there is some trucks with many many miles like CajFlynn that has better than 1.2 million on a 53 Block...

Right from the book... 1. Install the wheel speed sensor in the hub bearing if equipped.2. Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.3. Press the wheel studs/hub extension studs through the back side of the rotor and through the hub bearingflange.4. Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound to the splines of the front drive shaft.5. Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts through the back side of the knuckle so they extend out the front face as shown.6. Position the hub spacer and brake shield on bolts just installed in knuckle.7. Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.8. Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread the boltsinto the bearing flange far enough to hold the assembly in place.9. Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/bearing bolts to 166 N.m (122 ft. lbs.)10. Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to 245 N.m (180 ft. lbs.).11. Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut. Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole in the shaft with the opening in nut.12. Install the brake caliper. Refer to DISC - 2500 & 3500 .13. Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed sensorwire under the hood.14. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.15. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.16. Apply the brakes several times to seat the brake shoes and caliper piston. DO NOT move the vehicle untila firm brake pedal is obtained.

4 mounting bolts 122 ft/lbs1 drive axle nut (4WD) 180 ft/lbs

Southbend Con OFE will hold it...

Hence why a filter minder was installed in the stock filter box to measure the level of vacuum on the filter in inches of water column not inches of mercury.

Carry my big socket and wrench set and a spare fuel filter that's all...

Here is another good video on how a turbo functions...

I've been a Steward Warner fan from the 80's really when it came to gauge for muscle cars and such...

Like this...

Once again what you fuel pressure like idle pressure and WOT at highway speed?

Expanding on Pepsi post... He got a CCD Network propblem after the transmission was installed if you turn on the A/C or anyother HVAC setting the speedometer drop to zero and the odometer displays NO BUS and check engine light is tripped. But turn off the HVAC and everything returns to normal. I'm assuming its a ground issue...

Sound like you got it pretty well figured out now!