Mopar1973Man

Apparently the high idle is still disabled.

I've got 2 Dodge's (1996 & 2002) both have good dashes no cracks... Am I just lucky or what I don't know but I've pull the dash in both truck and the plastics are good and strong and no signs of cracking...

I'd say you guy rather well... No back to the thread topic...

But even with my straight pipe 3" it still very manageable with Edge Comp and the RV275 Injectors which puts me right there with a CR Engine truck...

I would repair any cracked fuel lines either supply or return.

You might head over to http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php and talk to Gary he's a guru of 5th wheels and trailers... Same here... I've got a bumper pull... Well at least I gave a tidbit of information but I'll got sit in the corner with Dripley...

Here is the write up... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=68:hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives&catid=36&Itemid=115 Personally after trying a few to correct a misfire issues and then after soaking a injector over night in straight solvent and seeing it did nothing to correct the problem. I can tell you that if your looking to clean a fuel system you have to take everything apart and clean it by hand. So as for keeping it clean is all about good CLEAN fuel and good fuel filters (<10 Micron) As for keeping things lubed up I would look at the list (above link) and consider the options. As for cetane booster just remember everytime you increase cetane you reduce the BTU's of the fuel... Just remember standard gasoline is right at 116K Btu's

After all the time of hearing VP44 failure and how bad VP44 pump are... I now know what every VP44 rebuilder is fighting every day. Where VP44 owners are cutting corners on fuel quality and filters and feed it dirty nasty fuel from gawd knows where.Why is that you here the same guy bragging about AMSOil in every hole but feed the fuel tank with worse garbage he can find? Why is this? Then blame the VP44 for being a $hitty pump. :rolleyes:I'll admit there is a few actual short life span pump that failed premature but not as often as the big forums as pushing it...

Ok first of let me vent here a second... (You've been warned!) I got a phone call from a gent this evening upset at his truck because of hard starting and P1689 error code randomily coming. He admits he's got a Raptor fuel pump, Edge Juice and 100 HP injectors. That fine... But the admits he's selling it because he's tired of all the VP44 failures and problem. WHOA! Stop the train... This is where I'm getting really tired of people giving the VP44 a bad name now pay attention. Now I asked him of his source of fuel. His response is he's running red dye fuel from a farm tank because its free. Then ask him of the the fuel filter he's running. His response is a cheap wix/napa filter. So now whining about VP44 failures but he's feeding it dirty watered down fuel and using cheap filters and wonder why the VP44 are not lasting. VP44 injection pump are a great pump and work very very well only if you feed them right... [*]Fuel lubricity of <450 HFRR (He admits in using 2 cycle oil ) [*]Fuel pressure of >14 PSI (Raptor pump and no lower than 16 PSI ) [*]Filters of <10 Microns [*]Little to no water (We all know farm fuels get water from time to time from sitting in the weather ) So what I'm finding out is people are abusing the pumps by cheating and then blame the pump for the poor quality of fuel and filters used. I'm really getting sick and tired of all the VP44 bashing...

What's you lift pump pressure like?

Problem is the OP doesn't have a crank sensor so in his case it would be a cam sensor...

How about a few pictures of it???

Welcome to the family of Cummins owners...

P0215 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit P0314 (I need to dig deep for...) P1689 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2628-P1689-No-Communication-Between-ECM-and-Injection-Pump-Module P1690 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2629-P1690-Fuel-Injection-Pump-CKP-Sensor-Does-Not-Agree-With-ECM-CKP-Sensor I would try working with this information and see where it takes you... I seen more than enough people report back "Opps it was a corroded connector or a broken wire".

I've got a Prodigy P2 brake controller really good controller and works really well...

According to RockAuto's page its normal for some up and down movement...

It starts out at 4,500 PSI and can go as high as 20,000 PSI (or more). As for the weeping it most likely a bad sealing washer...

I did my ball joints myself and my stock ones lasted till 187K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4147-Ball-Joints-Nightmare!

I would raise the stabilizers again just leave the tongue jack down... Because the trailer is trying to lean to one side a bit and the stabilizers are most likely hanging you up... Or hitch up the trailer to the Dodge and drive the front or rear axle up on a block of wood and the other axle should hang free.

Thing that hang me up is all these exhaust mods will more than likely end up removing my exhaust brake to work...

Probe the socket of the switch with a test light and check and see if there is power on one side. Then using a piece of wire and bridge across bothe pins and see if they light up with the key on. This will test to see if the light are good and if there is indeed power ther at the switch..

If there is no error codes for cam sensor I wouldn't worry much...Does the tach on the dash work?Does the volt meter rise when the truck is running?Most likely working then if yes but your ScanTool isn't capable of seeing Cummins cam sensor...

Done...

Right from the Dodge Factory service Manual... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=88:bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve&catid=25&Itemid=107 And...

Russ is always looking for useful hands to help him out...