Mopar1973Man

A & B sound like good plans...

Yeah you could try the lift pump trick then... Next time its hard starting pull the lead from the lift pump and see if starts easy...If so then you need to tap into the wiring... I really hate to tell anyone to cut wires on a orignal OE harness but since you don't have a AirDog or such you got to do on the stock wires... So yes the relay is fine to use with normal blade connectors/crimps... So what I would do is get a male and female connector on the yellow/white wire so if later you fix the problem you just hook the male female connectors back together and stock wiring is back in one piece. So the you'd have a male/female set going to the relay.ECM -> Female -> Male -> Lift pump (Omitting the relay)Or ECM -> Female -> Male -> Wire -> Male -> Relay (Single lead to relay)Tie the brown lead in at the starter with a ring terminal crimp.

Let me ask do you have a stock lift pump or a aftermarket like FASS or AirDog???

Good Ol' US Forest Circus and there ideas of control burns that got out of hand 7 different times burned over 23 miles of mountain ridge, distroyed 7 homes, and several historic landmarks. Just because its benefical for the evironment... My Arse!!!! Like the fire scienist told me... "Just take a few D8 cat's run a ring around the orignal fire and let it burn out..." But no... They had to light a back burn that started this whole problem... Bad management for sure! I worked this fire for over 27 days...

Ekkk... :duh:Well for the training I had for the fire dept is take a axe break out the grill and the grab the cable with a gloved hand and pull.But in your case we need to fix it without breaking more stuff. The only way I can see doing it is getting the grill out some way so you can access the latch.

Each National Forest has different rules and regulations. Lik I'm cutting in the Nez Perce National Forest. I've got to get a wood permit for that area and its $5 bucks a cord. Now if I was to cut near home I'd be in Payette National Forest and they are about $7 dollars a cord all different rules too.

I'm back with even bigger load...

Well... I just got back from a James place cutting up a elk and wrapping it... As soon as he gets here I'll be heading out to cut another load... Matter of fact James just rolled in the yard... It's going to be a long day..

So I gather the actual horn switch is shot...

Edge Comp here and it a good simple module without any bells and whistles...

I'm back at it again hauling large loads of firewood again... (Myself on the left and James on the right) One of those last minute runs to the woods to pick up a load. We had rode the ATV up the day before and looked around and found several places for firewood. But I was wanting to get some red fir for the pile so out came the saws and start bucking up rounds. I got a tidbit of video I got to process out later on... But I had to share my of use and our prize for the evening...

Yeah last night we laost power at about 4pm and it continued till 2am...Boy I love my solar/hydro system. The house was still operational lights, computers, etc. Just had no internet or phones. So if any of you where trying to find me last night I was without power...

If I remember right its every 20K miles... Here is how to adjust the valves... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20:engine-valve-lash-adjustments&catid=8&Itemid=106

As far as what I know all Dodge Trucks from 89-02 where 16" rims so I don't see any reason why they wouldn't... Know in the 3rd Gens the 17" rims came out...

Yeah I run in the snow and salt up here every year but its hard to tell... :stuned:I wash my frame and underbody about every week or so if the weather is permitting. I make sure to rinse the fender and frame of all the muddy and salt residue.

Yeah the voltage regulator is in the PCM... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg1.jpg

Nah... It fine... But something to bring up is the spring and check ball... I've been wanting to do a write up on it but... What happens is the check ball for the regulator of the FASS and AirDog both tend to hammer the check ball down into the coils of the spring.So the pressure falls so when you pull the spring out you'll find the check ball stuck inside the coils. Most times I just pull the ball out and and reassemble and pressure rises. As for tuning for pressure I know JL Welding has the measurements somewhere but I've got a stack of washers just for adjusting the fuel pressure. So its... Fitting -> Shim(s)/Washer(s) -> Spring -> Check Ball

D'Oh! I missed that... Good catch...

Batteries completely charged are at 12.6 Volts... Normal charging range is 13.5 to 14.5 typically.So if the batteries are slipping to under 12.0V after a few days its time to replace the batteries... Both of them at the same time!

He's right it doesn't matter... But what does matter is the place where the tube is going to be. Is it going to be in a spot prone to be damage because of doing service to the engine? Like the boost bolt points the tube straight up right in the middle of all the high pressure lines. So every time you work on doing a valve adjustment etc. you take a risk of breaking the tube or damaging it. But if it located low on the head like where mine is highly unlikely to get damaged because of where its located. So the pressure will all be the same is just location might cause problem for damaging the tubing...

I haven't seen him in while..Yo Russ... Are you still with us???

I your case I would use the Moog... But in my case I went with the cheapy from rockAuto.com...

As long as the plate weren't exposed to the air it should be fine... I sure the heat wasn't a good thing but it should survive...

This will help... Its for a 2002 but should be the same...