Mopar1973Man

All I can say is take your time measure and measure again before you cut anything... :smart:I did body work for about 1 year with a guy locally and it was a fun job of demo'ing out a vehicle pulling all the damaged stuff off and order the new body panels and such... Always remember the vehicle your repairing is damaged so measuring on a straight rig is going to be difficult...

Dang... I thought you about had it figured out there...

I'm with MarbleCrusher... I do the same thing I walk around the truck with a oil can giving all the latches a shot of engine oil... Most of the time I won't even wipe up the drips (rust preventer). But I do it about once a month because of all the dust and dirt, water, ice, salt, etc...

Holy Cow Guys... You guys haul around quite a bit...

Agreed!

Basically all electrical should go with it... (PCM and ECM) and all the interior... There is many places in the wiring diagrams where diesel and gas is seperated because of differences...

Not to hard to change out if you give me a bit of time I'll get my video on line for ya...

Ahh... You got what I do... (Most likely).My old RV275 inectors which were a hand me downs from CajFlynn (thank you) they finally gave up this summer and were missing at idle but under load they did fine. But cold engine it went away too. So my suggestion to you is pull the inectors and have the pop tested and see if thats the problem.Since I've disassembled my injectors a few times now I know I've got one with a pintle that is sticky. This should show up on the pop test bench.

A & B sound like good plans...

Yeah you could try the lift pump trick then... Next time its hard starting pull the lead from the lift pump and see if starts easy...If so then you need to tap into the wiring... I really hate to tell anyone to cut wires on a orignal OE harness but since you don't have a AirDog or such you got to do on the stock wires... So yes the relay is fine to use with normal blade connectors/crimps... So what I would do is get a male and female connector on the yellow/white wire so if later you fix the problem you just hook the male female connectors back together and stock wiring is back in one piece. So the you'd have a male/female set going to the relay.ECM -> Female -> Male -> Lift pump (Omitting the relay)Or ECM -> Female -> Male -> Wire -> Male -> Relay (Single lead to relay)Tie the brown lead in at the starter with a ring terminal crimp.

Let me ask do you have a stock lift pump or a aftermarket like FASS or AirDog???

Good Ol' US Forest Circus and there ideas of control burns that got out of hand 7 different times burned over 23 miles of mountain ridge, distroyed 7 homes, and several historic landmarks. Just because its benefical for the evironment... My Arse!!!! Like the fire scienist told me... "Just take a few D8 cat's run a ring around the orignal fire and let it burn out..." But no... They had to light a back burn that started this whole problem... Bad management for sure! I worked this fire for over 27 days...

Ekkk... :duh:Well for the training I had for the fire dept is take a axe break out the grill and the grab the cable with a gloved hand and pull.But in your case we need to fix it without breaking more stuff. The only way I can see doing it is getting the grill out some way so you can access the latch.

Each National Forest has different rules and regulations. Lik I'm cutting in the Nez Perce National Forest. I've got to get a wood permit for that area and its $5 bucks a cord. Now if I was to cut near home I'd be in Payette National Forest and they are about $7 dollars a cord all different rules too.

I'm back with even bigger load...

Well... I just got back from a James place cutting up a elk and wrapping it... As soon as he gets here I'll be heading out to cut another load... Matter of fact James just rolled in the yard... It's going to be a long day..

So I gather the actual horn switch is shot...

Edge Comp here and it a good simple module without any bells and whistles...

I'm back at it again hauling large loads of firewood again... (Myself on the left and James on the right) One of those last minute runs to the woods to pick up a load. We had rode the ATV up the day before and looked around and found several places for firewood. But I was wanting to get some red fir for the pile so out came the saws and start bucking up rounds. I got a tidbit of video I got to process out later on... But I had to share my of use and our prize for the evening...

Yeah last night we laost power at about 4pm and it continued till 2am...Boy I love my solar/hydro system. The house was still operational lights, computers, etc. Just had no internet or phones. So if any of you where trying to find me last night I was without power...

If I remember right its every 20K miles... Here is how to adjust the valves... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20:engine-valve-lash-adjustments&catid=8&Itemid=106

As far as what I know all Dodge Trucks from 89-02 where 16" rims so I don't see any reason why they wouldn't... Know in the 3rd Gens the 17" rims came out...

Yeah I run in the snow and salt up here every year but its hard to tell... :stuned:I wash my frame and underbody about every week or so if the weather is permitting. I make sure to rinse the fender and frame of all the muddy and salt residue.

Yeah the voltage regulator is in the PCM... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/2002-Dodge-Wiring-Pg1.jpg