Mopar1973Man

So very very rare I going to butt splice two wires together. I typically use like blade style crimp (male & female) to join wires so there is a disconnect point as well. I would rather solder and shrink tube if I'm joining wires together but rather use some good lead/tin solder and flux and get a good bite to the wire. I've seen oxidized copper not play well with solder either. Then do the small pull test. I normally only strip about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch of insulation off and tin the ends. Now slip the shrink tubing over and bind the two tin ends together. Afterwards slide the tubing in place and use the heat of the solder iron to set the shrink tubing. Now I've got way less that that long pre made solder shrink setup mine are barely 3/8 to 1/2 inch long with shrink. Hide way better in a loom and hardly noticeable being there is no knot in the wire now. Good example my PCM protection fuse.

Not for long we are going back into the freezer here by tomorrow... Single digit temperatures. Ugh....

Very interesting learn a little about stuff from your side being the old school wrenches and the lamp oil engines really cool... Thank you @wil440...

Yup I'm now starting to travel for work some. Hooked up with an old friend and doing work on his 1990 Chevy 350 Pickup. Steering column came loose at the tilt. Then a new hood cable. Getting more complex the master and slave for the cluch needed to be replaced. Bad part thevtubing rust together and broke. Fun installing that line. Now I'm trying to do a thermostat and power steering hose. Sad to say the passenger side bolt on the thermostat broke and the power steering hose to bound up too. Oh fun.

There was write up on the internet how someone replaced the two light switches.

Only thing you don't want to do is draw fuel from then sender basket. Typically much hotter fuel.

DAP you can go with new or used bodies. I've done both with good out come. Then I prefer the VCO nozzle over a SAC nozzle. Then I prefer higher than normal pop pressure over lower than stock that most do.At least my 7 x 0.010 injectors at 320 bar have broke my old MPG record at 28.04 MPG. As for DAP injectors they do perform really good. Turn up the wire tap and you'll have problems holding the tires down.

More common on lock to lock steering it pops more so on the passenger side.

Same here had a few days of 45 to 50F. Now yesterday it was barely 36 and misting rain.

Yeah I looked at the side of the worn bearing. 4 bolts and bearing comes out. While I'm down in Parma ID working on a customer's pickup I got a shot at 1 bearing for 48 dollars at AutoZone in Ontario, OR. Can't complain.

Ugh. I'm tried of just the cold period. Yeah it might be only +20F but that near 100% humidity is nasty just seem to soak right through you at times.

After having tires replace with fresh rubber I found out I've got a bad rear wheel bearing. Shouldn't be too hard to replace. What tip me off is the change of sound as you lightly rock the steering back and forth at road speed.

What are some of the common spots for front end popping noise? Typically heard when turning lock to lock but not always.

Buy a new spring like 6 bucks maybe? Or ask for a new spring from AirDog.

As for the Goldwing it been sitting for years. I parked it after I blew the left head gasket. No matter what I've done after that always had a over heat issue. Radiator rodded out and clean, the water pump replaced, thermostat replaced, full gauges added (Autometer), etc. Still run upwards of 230*F on a cool day. The only way to ride it was near 40*F day then it barely makes like 200*F coolant temp. My theory is the head was milled too much and compression is too high now.

Since I do not have a Microsoft machine to load the tune builder I do the tune work in real time watching the display. Even exporting the data logs doesn't work for me because I have to see road conditions to see why the numbers are, the way they are. Slopes, grades, bends in the road, etc all impact how the numbers come out in the wash. Simply put, timing should retard as engine load rises, then as engine load is reduced timing should go back up. More retard more boost you build, more advancement the less boost you build. Still to this day being I'm back to having my stock HX35W turbo I'm still nearly zero boost at 65 MPH just like 2 PSI typical running. Now roll into the throttle the boost can jump to 35 PSI pretty quickly.

Well don't have pictures right at this time but I do have... 2008 Honda Rancher 420cc 1983 Honda Goldwing 1100cc As for the ATV I'm going to start using it for what its suppose to is recreational vehicle instead of my yard mule. As for the Goldwing it been sitting for years. I parked it after I blew the left head gasket. No matter what I've done after that always had a over heat issue. Radiator rodded out and clean, the water pump replaced, thermostat replaced, full gauges added (Autometer), etc. Still run upwards of 230*F on a cool day. The only way to ride it was near 40*F day then it barely makes like 200*F coolant temp. My theory is the head was milled too much and compression is too high now.

Anti seize is a good friend of mine for commonly removed bolts. Like intake horn bolts, APPS sensor bolts, etc.

That is a complex function there and hard to explain.

Still it all it a gauge provided, the data isn't accurate across the span. I can do the same between Quadzilla EGTs and ISSPro EGTs. There is always a possibly of differences between two guages. As for differences on EGTs is about 50 to 100 degrees varance at times even though both sensors are in the rear port an inch apart. Since the a-pillar is there I use it more.

Should watch NewsMax you'll find out all the athletes are complaining about conditions while in Beijing.

Most of that oil is sent to the shaft bearings and spray the chain with oil.

Kind of like my boost readings between ISSPro boost gauge and Quadzilla on the MAP sensor which is good to about 20 PSI after that it skews badly so actually on the ISSPro at 45 PSI I'm showing 69 PSI on the Quadzilla. Hence I know the accuracy of the stock MAP is worthless hence why I DO NOT display boost number on my Quadzilla. Changing the sensor does not fix that issue which ive already tried that too.

Just watching the news of the world on NewsMax which you can watch free on Pluto TV app. The whole mandate issues are all screwed up. Here locally we act like a normal day. Go to a larger city like McCall everyone is masked up. I still say if you want to wear a mask do it I'm not going to judge you. But all the stores that are doing private mask mandate is the problem. Like NAPA is normal store but go to Ace Hardware your forced to wear a mask. As for moving goods it shouldn't make any difference but when one goes sick doesn't mean shut down a entire company or business. That is happening even around here. So a teacher got COVID and they shutdown entire school and now you have all the kids at home. Then you got parents at home watching their kids and not working... messed up world.

Ummm when the smoke is boiling out of the tires yup. It is the right color. Typically has that burning tire smell.