Mopar1973Man

Haven't bother to put a vacuum on it yet...

Caj we need a photo of the odometer... Totally amazing to see that much miles... :cheerleader:10K to go...

Really there isn't much to it. Switch -> PCM -> Hi Cutout -> Lo Cutout -> Compressor You turn the switch to MAX A/C (or any A/C mode) and the signal is sent to the PCM. The PCM will pass on the signal to the switch but the only time it will not is when the ECM is report limp mode or throttle is wide open then the A/C is shut down. As is the signal pass the two switch the hi switch protects agains too much pressure from high under hood temp and lack of air movement. Where the low pressure switch protects against freezing of the evaporator. So that is the basics...

As for the fuel line most all rough idle problems could be air being sucked in so typically there is no outward leakage or wet lines. Then 12 PSI for a AirDog is low so I'm going to guess you got a air leak some where on the suction lines.

My same thoughts... I got 9 years and 183K miles on mine... Stock is fine with me...

Well as for the evaporator both of then shown no sign of dye on the outside. Notes Remember the UV dye only last a few hours after being exposed to air. The green will dissappear in about 4 hours after leaking out of the system. Is there a pic or schematic that shows the evaporator and heater core together ?

Video is done... It's 350 MB long and will take me a bit of time tonight to upload to YouTube. Now the video is from the re-assembly process so I'm sure you guys and gals could see how it comes apart and goes back together. So the video start from the point of the new evaporator core was installed in the HVAC box and re-assembly from that point to done... So hopefully I remember to upload the file before I head to bed. --- Update to the previous post... Click and enjoy...

The cruise interaction was later in the Common Rail truck... don't ask which year but here was a year where the cruise would use the E Brake to slow down the truck.

But make sure to pull the intercooler and clean it out as well as all the piping to the manifold... Because if oil residue is at the turbo you going to most likely have it in the intercooler and piping too...

Information on ScanGauge II... http://www.scangauge.com/ Information on UltraGauge http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

Stock air box is junk too... Over time the plastic will deform and the seal around the filter will be lost and the dust will leak thruogh. You can grease the seal to death to keep dirt out or just switch to the BHAF and be done. But oil resdue and dirt is a bad sign on the compressor side of the turbo. (Bad oil seal - Remember oil pressure is always higher than boost pressure so oil will always enter) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/turbo/turbo.htm

Ye you could but still going to need to flash the ECM to match the trans and also flash the VIN number to both.

The 2 engine are phyiscally the same as far as I know... Yes you'll have to reflash the PCM and ECM to match for the transmission. I pretty sure the ECM software is what makes the 20 HP difference. Because I've never heard a vendor sell a 215 VP44 pump it either SO or HO VP44 pumps...

That's good news if it was only a wiring fault on the VP44 chances are most like good... But still wonder how long the VP44 was without fuel pressure though...

Well the AD150 has to be installed at least... Then you can see if the VP44 will reset codes or not... Basically if the VP44 is OK it will not trip code again after the AD 150 install. But of the P1689 or other VP44 error codes return your going to be replacing the VP44.

Very interesting... Thank you Dobie...

Neither UltraGuage or ScanGauge will replace addon gauges (Boost, Pyrometer, Fuel Pressure). But both with report all error codes, give you a good trip computer and show you values from the engine sensor. (SGII will not show the MAP sensor correctly on 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins works correctly on all other vehicles.)

Don't do the intank pump... All the error code are right on and correct... The lift pump failed by having a open circuit... Then the fuel pressure fell and the electronics of the injection pump started over heating because of lack of fuel pressure and the heat generated by friction spinning part inside the VP44 pump. So now the electronics dies and so does the truck... But THe P0232 might be the reason for the it won't start again.. Not sure of that internally of the VP44 or wiring issue.

Been using cheap ol' NAPA 190*F thermostats my max temp is 202*F typically.

Are you getting power to the compressor clutch?

Yes I did last year at this same time... But the core has failed... It's leaking... I pressureized the system with compressed air and ran the A/C to move the dye around. Then shut it all down and watch with a black light in a dark shop and never found any green dye in the engine bay area. So this means the evaporator is leaking again... I even pulled a vacuum back on it and checked and it loses 5 in/mg in about 10 minutes time. So it a good sized leak... So now that I got the new core I'll grab the video camera and record the re-do of this... And you guys will find out its easy as pie to do... (Serously!)

Very interesting way to look at it... 7,400# = 3.7 Tons (Just weighed my truck today)21 MPG Which is 77.7 miles per gallon per ton for my truck. As for my Mom's 96 Dodge... 5,500# = 2.75 Tons (Using old weight)14 MPG (On a good day) Which is 38.5 miles per gallon per ton for a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Ext Cab Short Box 5.9L Gas engine with automatic trans (3.55:1 gears). Hmmm... Going out long... Honda Rancher ATV (420cc engine fuel injected) 835# = .4175 Tons (With me in the saddle - rough weight)30 MPG 12.5 miles per gallon per ton.... Weird way to look at it but it does make sense...

Like you said everyone is in a hurry to go nowhere... I'm sure I've told this story before but I've had people pissed off at me and tell me so when I've stopped for fuel but when I ask the person how must fuel mileage he/she gets "Oh 12-15 MPG" you know the person get rather pissy when you tell them to slow down and enjoy 20-22 MPG. I've also got another follower that calls on a regulare basis and he was asing would he be able to make a 190-200 one way trip with 100 gallons of diesel? I told him I can get 700-750 miles out of 35 gallon of diesel only if you slow down and get off the interstate. He typically drives 75-80 MPH... :banghead:

No... Just seem I got the wheel twisted left about 30-45* angle to hold straight line down the road. Even when the truck was brand new it was very slightly to the left and now it growing and getting worse it just seem like way too much over correction. As for slop there is very little that I can tell... I'm expecting to replace parts in the front end after 180K miles there has to be some wear in parts... But since my budget for part is thin I need to know which one is the worse right now and start with ugly and work my way back to easy breezy...

I think I explain that poorly... I didn't mean you sacrificed performance or HP/TQ but we can't drive our truck at MAX HP/TQ and expect to have high MPG's. Like in my study of it Economy comes with engine load of less than 15%. So if I dyno'ed at 381/831 back in 2007 that mean I'm only using 15% of 381 Max HP/831 Max TQ which happens to be roughly 57 HP/124 TQ. I've still got all the muscle I need under the hood but only use a very small fraction of the power now very efficently...