Mopar1973Man

New Meadows, ID - $3.989McCall, ID - $3.999 $4 bucks a gallon is here... I drive way slower (55 MPH) I use to kick the cruise up before to keep traffic flowing now I won't. If you don't like it... Pay my fuel bills...

www.idahoturbodiesels.com Been helping these guys out...

Thanks W&F I let him know next time he calls me...

Dang... That's getting close to be wireless truck... Everything hidden, everything tucked away... Technically everything in a conduit...

Member looking or information information on ball joints. Whats the best deal and best brand? Could you guys help this member out? 1999 Dodge Ram 2WD 3500

Can't unplug it... The dinger/door chime is inside the central timer box. So if you unplug that you loose a bunch of stuff like your wipers, security alarm, keyless entry, etc... The best you can do is find the central timer and look at the side of it and you'll see a grill hole for the chime you can cover it with duct tape and then warp the unit in cloth to muffle the noise...

Sorry BlueOx there is no hydraulic lifter per say in the this engine... Solid tappet that ride the cam...

Well I can speak for the older engines 12V and 24V engines... There shouldn't be any fuel fired till the piston is near TDC. This should fire the fuel into the bowl of the piston so technically there should be very little fuel to cylinder wall contact. Now as for the Common rail and it multi-firing events (pre and post) it really possible... So that does bring up a wear issue...

Hard to believe that high... (I'd love to dig up a article for ya but my internet is in LIMP MODE... Really slow)

Holy Cow dude... That's going to be sweet when its done... Wanna do a 24V next?

Still holding a constant 21-22 MPG every trip to McCall, ID now...

Congrads to you Dorweed I think you got Mighty Whitey broke in finally...

Got a pair and Yes... I'm left handed... Push towards the driver side... (Clockwise)

Just unbolt the balancer pull off by hand... Then unbolt the cover and remove... Just becareful not to bend the cover if prying to it get lose... Might be better to loosen with a putty knife. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm

Fuel pressure is rather marginal... You might want to double check all you electrical...

It's been down to -25*F and no additive for gelling use... I still just running my 2 cycle oil at 128:1 ratio... So far no problems.

CAN BUS is down by the ECM and engine mount...

Boy Rogan you got a good talent for shooting pictures... Wow!

Slow again like usual Rogan... He just called last night and is just crossing the 960K mark... On a personal note Caj told he had hurt his back doing a job on a boat a few days ago. Now he's fighting a sore back while he drives cross country. I hope your back heals soon bud... I even said a few prayers so maybe you get some relief...

Yeap... Rogan correct... The code there should be enough for any body shop to mix the proper paint color...

I've got my set of JL Welding certified fan wrenches...

At idle or at wide open throttle? Seem you got a air leak possible? Old school trick is to park nose down and see if it start easier. Compared to nose up (drain back).

Great to see you return back to the site...

It could... Creates a issues for that side... I would rather try all the little cheap things first before ever pointing the finder at things that are expense like ECM/PCM or VP44... So double check and check all the small cheap stuff before pointing the finger at bigger money...

Really odd... The error codes you provided are of 3rd Gen code list more so than 2nd Gen...