Mopar1973Man

No. I had the standard speaker set up. The only thing you need to do is order the faceplate for the stereo and then the stereo wiring kit for that truck. You can reuse those speakers just as well. The amplifiers are on the front two 6x9 speakers. Face plate https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6700-Dash-Ford-74-03/dp/B0002EXGVY/ Wiring kit https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1817-Harness-Chrysler-1984-2006/dp/B0002BF0DE/ Here is what I'm running for stereo. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017Y5W2PO/

Typically 60% of the volume is returns as long and the pressure behind the overflow valve is above 14 PSI and then the fuel is return below that the value is close and nothing is returned. Being just quick math at 65 MPH and about 18 MPG which is a fair average your only injecting 3.61 GPH of fuel this means the remain volume is returned again only if the pressure is above 14 PSI behind the overflow valve. Stock lift pump (Carter) was only a 60 GPH pump at barely 13 to 14 PSI back when I fought with them during the Campaign phase which failed...

Nice Ford Truck looks good. I look at the step rail and just think I'll never fit under that truck just to do like an oil change.

Exactly what I did. Ditched the stock head unit. Installed a Kenwood Bluetooth stereo. Then upgraded the cig plug to USB. The part I don't like is the Bluetooth to FM seems the volume is always weaker than Bluetooth to a head unit directly like what Beast has. Being I bought a FM transmitter for Thor also use in the Mini van. Either vehicle seems weak for volume.

Yup, you are absolutely right. Yeah there is things I wanted to do and now I'm gearing up this spring catching up with @JAG1 and @IBMobile for there camp trip. Now I have no one to answer to but me. Time to be a bit selfish. I've earned the right too.

There is a two wire plug on the socket just a PITA to remove so you can check. But you should be able to somewhat reach it from the driver side. I removed mine and installed 3A USB charger. One plug is my Garmin GPS then the second is to charge my phone. Since the USB charger is QC3 it will charge pretty fast. Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket, ADSDIA 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 Car Charger Power Adapter Outlet with LED Display for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV Golf Cart DIY Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PN5YZX3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_883DAW4JAFP7E8N52KS5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Where is the nice metal lids?

Right out of ASTM testing labs. There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!! This is why I don't use cetane additive. Being my winterized diesel up here is closer to 50 cetane and Dodge requires 45 in the winter. Then 40 cetane summer. Adding more cetane will only reduce MPG number, reduce amount of BTUs per gallon.

My hat is off to you sir. I understand the tending to family far too good. Being I cared for my father till he passed in 2004 on then my mother passed in 2020. The things you do for family and my opinion its the best thing to do. Might be cold and cranky but you got family.... Be there for them.

Well I got a real winner. My customer owns a 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. She was having issues with the clutch slipping and the rear main seal is leaking. I will warn that the DEF tank is part of the cross member / skid plate. Ok. Leave it installed get the transfer case I'm glad I work on the floor I had to flip that transfer case in such a manner to get it out of the little hole I had. Whew! Past that issue. Not trying ot unplug wire and separate the wires from the transmission and cross member. Another PITA. Whew! Got past that one. Now get the transmission down and out after prying it out of the clutch yeah seriously. Trans is down and now for the clutch not to bad but with 290k on the clock the dual mass flywheel was beat up on the springs. Son-of-a-bio... Yeah that stupid front bolted flexplate crap... Good thing I got out of the way that flywheel is very heavy and it hit the floor kind of hard. Not worried I got a full Valair clutch / flywheel going in. Now I'm pulling the adapter plate then realized I forgot the starter. The 2 bolts on the bottom were TIGHT the one on top I couldn't do with a 13mm wrench. We geared up and got the plate loose and got a fairly straight shot down with my 1/2" DeWalt Impact gun with a fresh battery. Nope That top bolt won't budge. F___... Time to get creative. Ok just unwire the starter and then pull adapter plate out with the starter. Nope. I can't get the damn starter solenoid lead unplugged. Of course on top and can't get a good squeeze or pull on the plug. At that point Mark and I gave up. Yeah I got smart this morning and asked a friend to come over and throw tools for me. So at this point I still can't get the starter un-wired the adapter plate has one bolt holding the starter. I'm one tired and sore puppy.

Yes it is... Don't bother. It won't do you any good being its not something you just set and forget. It takes time and studying and logging to get a tune built and correct. Something that took me years to prefect on even my own truck. XZT is not a good solution. Being that has to be programmed before it leaves Quadzilla. Quadzilla Adrenaline you can do all the tune work on your mobile device. Again this takes time and studying to get a absolute optimal tune. I've got a few tricks that I've tried on a few members trucks and works out really good. Cool as it gets cruising the highway for EGT's.

Another view of 17*F as the sun comes up and man that wind is super cold cut you like a knife.

Confirmed what I'm saying... Yup You gotta stand on the throttle once in awhile to shake things up and make that mighty Cummins use it all. Like freeway on ramp stand on that throttle for the what 1/8 to 1/4 mile and let it eat. Like myself I use a full range of throttle on my trucks like two days ago I was using Thor (2006) and on my way home I would down shift when its clear and the stand the throttle to about 80 to 85 MPH and then back out back to cruising speed of 65 MPH. I can drive in such a manner that I never bring boost above 10 to 15 PSI on either Beast or Thor and never work that wastegate, being I typically drive with economy in mind. Att the same time I know I got to work that wastegate now and then. Hmmm... Maybe that why Beast (2002) never had a wastegate issue. The previous owner of Thor (2006) was well kind of rough on it. But didn't take care of the failed wastegate solenoid and the P0243 code now I can reach the P0234 over boost code so I might have to check mine ot be sure it not stuck either as @AH64IDsuggested in my other thread.

I think that's what happened in town yesterday. Pup did a fuel filter on the 4th Gen clean the bowl up with brake clean and every thing might of caught the o-ring wrong and it started to leak. I pulled the cap inspected and then the fuel dripped all over the bowl so in it went again but this time fuel soaked. No leak after that. I'm also very careful about torquing those plastic caps too being its possible to break the socket stub off the top or strip the threads out on the cap. Who in there right mind build a fuel filter cap with a 1-1/8" hex on top that your going to use a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket? Of course there is a dummy out there leveraging up on the end of a 1/2 inch ratchet to pull it home TIGHT! Don't want it to leak... SNAP! or STRIP!

Yup you can... I've seen and been in -30*F before and next day or so warm up near zero does feel warmer than the previous days. Still cold be it how fast the cold soaks into to you is the difference. More or less a zero degree day wouldn't chill you as fast compared to -30*F that feels colder faster.

Ugh. Man that just cold. Back a about 4 years ago we dropped to -40*F in New Meadows, ID minus anything is just plan cold period.

@wil440 imagine if you popped the 140 stock fuse? So far on my truck never tripped the breaker or the protection fuse for the PCM.

Personally I'm getting tired of temps below 32°F. Like yesterday with 3 MPH wind it was +7°F with wind chill. Then being out in the cold most of the day. Even if it makes it to near 40°F. I'm so ready for spring.

Good point. Those are cheap too to try. Even cheaper go and make a wire jumper between the two pins of the flasher socket in the fuse panel and it should light up solid and no flash too. I upgraded to all LEDs on Beast... So I've already got a updated flasher can built for LED bulbs. My full circuit load is tiny now being it like 1 amp total.

Very possible, I've seen several here locally and free a couple too. Kind of like a Kenworth with Cummins 6BT I worked on the owner wanted me to free the exhaust brake vane. Good luck it was so froze up because the previous owner never used it. There wasn't anything I could do to free the exhaust brake. Again you have to work all these components on a regular schedule other than that when it sits idle too long it just seizes up and then the fight is on.

Very possible... If both fuse 4 and 5 are good then the multi-function switch would be my next step.

Be aware if the wastegate is frozen be careful trying to free it up. Make sure to spray plenty of PB blaster, WD-40, or similar to get some lube down the shaft into the cast iron housing. Might even consider heating the cast body to expand the metal a bit and allow the spray lube to creep into the shaft more. Then carefully with a hammer tap a few strokes on the gate or arm and work it back and forth slowly. If its not moving just soak more lube and let it soak for time. Wastegate sticking only occurs when people drive so mellow that they never build enough boost to get the gate open at least once in awhile. Then the carbon and rust build up till it sticks, typically in the closed position. At least my two trucks see enough boost to open the wastegate at least once a week, yes I mat the throttle and let them eat once in awhile.

I was just called into the local Chevron station to aid in looking into a fuel leak on 4th Gen Cummins. The filter had been changed and later on it started leaking from the screw on lid. They pull it checked the o-ring (no damage) reinstalled the cap and no more leak...

I would just hold out if the Quadzilla if its coming but I woulds consider still get ting it now because of tuning time it will take to dial in. Wouldn't take much more that a few minutes to hook up. The Edge Comp uses the same plugs that the Quadzilla uses. Plus one pyrometer probe install. Way better than the Edge Comp trust me when I went from 27.2 MPG as a high mark then figured out the Quadzilla and bet my own higmark at 28.04 MPG.