Mopar1973Man

Really isn't any way to do that... Because if you forget to flip it off it will over fill the tank and push it out the vents and such... You need a split tank valve (electric) and hook the aux tank to the existing fuel lines... Then just flip a switch and draw fuel from the second tank. Yeah this says carb... I snagged from a gasser site. But this is the valve you need...

Yeap it look like its heading that way... I really hate to suggest anything that mean spending big money but it looks like your out of options...

Now remember driving style is 80% of this number... So if you think it give you ability to be heavy on the throttle it doesn't... I'll get the ohm value off mine rheostat in the morning...

CAB = Controller AntiLock Brake Yes... You need to have a new (or used) reprogrammed with your gear ratio, tire size and VIN number... As for which will go bad first... Kind of like the Chicken and the Egg which came first?

236 - Boost too high too long 1475 - Aux 5 Volt too high 122 - APPS sensor Low Volts 577 - ? (got to look in other books) Double check the +5V signal in the MAP sensor and look and see what the voltage really is... Check and see if something is shorted out...

Right now I'm running a rheostat plugged into the IAT plug. This allows me to adjust and try to fine tune the IAT temps to get the most. So after yackin' with ISX and talking theories I went back up with temp to try 140*F IAt and this time added the winter fronts to feed warm air at the engine. So if your going to follow along with this you would lose your grid heater in the morning. But it throws no codes because the IAT temp is legit number so the ECM assumes its true. But basically if you want a toggle switch design you would build the ECT fooler basically but use IAT plugs on it then use the proper resistor for the temp you want... (Look back at the first few posts)

Done it again... Mild weather 30-40*F, No wind, Cruise Set @ 55 MPH, IAT 140*F (Forced), Winter front (installed) 22 MPG on 40 mile round trip. I left today to get a couple gallons of paint for paint a room. So I headed to New Meadows, ID set my cruise for 55 MPH and took my time. On the way up canyon I was doubtful about numbers because I was watch 600-800*F EGT's but still 3-5 PSI boost. But once I made it ot the flats in Meadows Valley it fell 2-3 PSI of boost and floating 400-600*F. I was gain number rapidly. Once I hit New Meadows I had 16 MPG even after climbing the grade out. Now got my paint stopped in a friends place BS for a bit and came home set the cruise for 55 MPH home again. I'm all smileys because now I know the warmer air trapped under the hood is actually helping!

I know its a short video but this is what the blend door motor does...

Here you go more info on it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fca/fca.htm

All right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm

Hmmm... No problems here... Every monthly I do a inspection of my check levels, vehicle, lights, latches, doors, etc. So when I'm doing this I break out the oil can and hit every door hinges (front and rear), hood hinges, latches, etc.

Yeah I would be very very careful... Cummins engine is right around 1,000 to 1,100 pounds... Getting crushed by a Cummins would really ruin your day...

Just be aware that if you got loose paint or bare aluminum it will do strange things... The paint it will remove any old paint rather quickly with just a garden hose to rinse. Then as for the bare aluminum is will blacken the aluminum...

Come to Idaho... New Meadows, ID - $3.809McCall, ID - $3.859Riggins, ID - $3.769 I'm now also kicking the MPG fooler into high gear to get the most out of it I can now...

Just unplug the IAT and stuff a resistor into the plug... Simple enough that's all I'm doing...

Well once again the warm air wins the battle... Today I re-installed my winter fronts, up the IAT to 140*F like ISX suggested and ran for McCall, ID with morning temps as low as 17*F and my return trip was barely 30*F. Then got home for a short break and head to another job in Riggins, ID and then return home bucking a 10-20 MPH wind home... Hit the drive way with 21 MPG... High mark of the day at 23 MPG... Cruise set for 55 MPH... There is just no two ways about it warm air physically and logic hit better numbers all the way around... Sure gives new meaning to CAI's... They are not what there cracked up to be...

Hmmm... I would just bar the engine over by hand and see what happens... If a cylinder is flooded you'll feel it...

I got a guy that has been in touch with me by email and been trying to figure out his CCD Bus problems. So far nothing I suggested works. Currently he can see the 2.5 and 2.4 vold bias voltage at the OBDII port he's only got the ECM and PCM plugged in to the bus all other modules (Radio, ABS, AirBag, etc.) are unplugged to try and isolate the problem. But still it will not communicate... The engine will start and run... Tachometer functions but all other gauges are dead. No AirBag or ABS lights... But unable to read error codes at all. I'm hoping one of you might have an idea...

Well that is a important factor to make sure you reach operation temp before you get to your destination... Yea if I was only ot drive you distance I would for sure keep it plugged in too.

Thanks for the reminder that one tends to escape me at times... But W&F is right double check everything that can be cancelling the high idle from starting...

Yea... The stock gauge is not a very accurate measure of pressure...

Cracked head most likely... Way to check is to disconnect the return line at the rear of the engine (quick connect) and then pressurize the coolant system with 15-18 PSI using a cooling pressure kit. The crack would be from the coolant jacket to the fuel return rail that runs out the back of the head.

2 main issues with isolators... 1. Lose coolant and drops low.2. Inaccurate readings. After had a few call me at different states of problems typical what happens after they plumb directly to fuel the number always changes (goes higher!) Usually I tell them to re-test without the isolator and 99% of the time the pressure was fine it was just the isolator either lost coolant or damaged internally some how. But only 2% of the people actually go back through the trouble of reseting the diaphram and reloading and priming with coolant. But once again owners choice. The other issue with isolators is cost... A needle valve is only $8 bucks at a NAPA store isolators range from $40 to $60 bucks.

No problem here I must of got lucky on mine I still got the factory trim in the only drilled 1 hole to attach with bolt and nut...

Myself... I'm looking down the barrel of pan gasket, vacuum pump seal, and gear case re-seal... Lower end of the engine is getting well messy... Sure ain't my puke bottle... (Don't have one! )