Mopar1973Man

There was a guy that managed to tap into the Cummins ECM with a program called ROMRaider and this is one of the few pieces of information I captured before his site went down.

Might check for error code not all errors will trip the Light...

Ummm... No I wouldn't go that far... I've sat down and learned from trial and error and from the other members too... Like this video I created because of ISX bugging me... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU

That is a mystery I can't answer between the 2 trucks... Like if I go down to Boise, ID and hit the interstate and drive speed limit everywhere I'll see roughly 16-17 MPG. But now if I avoid the interstate and use all smaller roads and keep my speed down (RPM related too) then MPG's natural rise for me... Now the only thing I could say that might give a clue tha P-pump's don't advance/retard timing but I know that VP44 do retard timing at high RPM's As you see for me running high up the RPM scale just retards timing...

Then there is a few of us that never got certain things.... [*]No warranty card in the box. [*]No extra high pressure spring. [*]No AirDog Sticker. I didn't know about this till about 2 years later... :banghead:

Like I had a conversation with another member last night about this subject... It's best to put the vehicle in a inclose building at least. Remember the block heater is just 750w and the block is not insulated so if your parked out in the wind it makes the job keeping the block warm very hard. I Keep my truck in a un-heated shop and the temp might get as low as 34-35*F but the block heater can heat the coolant and manifold well into the 120*F bracket compared to outside in blowing wind of 0*F where the block here can barely get 80-90*F... And yes a Cummins will start just fine at 0*F without a block heater...

Anytime the tach needle pass the 2K mark you can garantee a loss of MPG instantly... Like for me to run 55-60 MPH I see 20-21 MPG everytime... But now to hit the interstat and run 75 MPH which now puts me at 2,200 RPM now I'm down to about 12-14 MPG... Funny... If I stay in 4th gear (1:1 ratio in the trans) and go 45 MPH which is roughly 1,900 RPM's I'm clearing over 25-28 MPG But of course that's with 3.55 gears... The other factor is going from 55 MPH to 65 MPH the wind drag nearly doubles...

2002 is the only year that works absolutely right on... 2001 is most of the time doesn't work right at all... Now I'm seeing a few 2000 trucks I wonder if they happen to be later model kind of like the cross over point to the 2001 model? But if the odometer is not displaying like above then you need to use a code reader.

Not bad... My first one failed at 45K miles and wiped out the VP44 at 50K miles...

Sorry to say you'll have to see what it like under road load. 35 seems a bit low though...

Single P DONE mens your not seeing the ECM codes... There should be 2 P DONE's... The video above... P-PCU---------P0500---------P Done---------P ECU---------P1693---------P Done Take notice there is 2 computers PCM (first) and the ECM (second)... So a single P Done means you got half the codes...

Yeap we need the error codes of whats happening... But its sounding like a VP44 problem...

True in might be in the service manual and within spec... But something about tighten up the clearance even more that typical bother me...

Question? What is your fuel pressure ar at this 2K RPM's? Is the fuel rail draining off from a weak fuel pump or plugged filter causing the engine to surge because it trying to fuel more and it can't... 12 flash code means the battery was disconnected at one point. Vacuum leak? You'd be surprised what a vacuum leak will do to these newer electronic fuel injection vehicles...

Personally after doing the study work on the Carter, Carter HP, and the Holley pumps... I hate to say none of these pump are worth buying to feed a $1000 dollar injection pump. Holley come up short because the fact all holley pumps are not designed to be used for diesel fuel. Then they are made from the very same design of a carter. So the Holley has the exact same weakness as a carter pump except the regulator is better thats all. But the actual motor life is typically short at about a year or two and it fails. Thing is to be truthful there is so very few pump that are actually designed for diesel and can keep up with Bocsh requirements. That bring up another tidbit what is Bosch's requirements??? Bosch's Requirements is that at least 70% of the fuel must be return to the fuel tank to properly cool and lubricate a VP44 injection pump. Ok... That said... Now I know typical stock truck can draw upwards of 20-22 GPH worth of burn rate. So if the stock pump is only rated for 35 GPH so that means 20 / 35 = 57% of the fuel volume is comsumed and only 43% is being returned... No enough... But now increase the fuel pump to say 100 GPH and now do the math. 20 / 100 = 20% so that means 80% is being return under the heaviest load and plenty of cooling and lubrication is occuring. But there is a hitch to this Now the lift pump has to be able to keep above 14 PSI at WOT to keep the cooling and lubricating going. Once you start dropping below 14 PSI the overflow valve on the return line start to close that means reduced cooling and lubrication so once the fuel pressure falls to 10 PSI the valve is closed and all extra cooling and lubrication is gone...

As long as you drive sensible and keep your speed moderate you'll see the 20 MPG all the time...

Don't feel bad... I've got a whole rash of ad notices going out because the time all the ads started and it now 1 year later... Thing is I'm waiting for the list to thin out and then will go one by one and fix each one... No I've not forgotten but it one of those thing I rather spend the entire day going through all the vendors and redo in one shot instead of one here and one a couple days later... But ISX is right... I've got a bunch going on locally and been gone a bunch...

Most see 2-3 MPG gain over stock injectors... RV275 are exactly that... 275 HP... So if you do some math 275-235= +40 HP...

Funny part is if you take care of it in the first place you'll never have to worry about cleaning, removal problems, rusting, corrosion problems, etc...

what kind of problems?

Comes down to the simple fact that all metal expands... So at full operating temp how much expansion of metal do you have? Now that things tighten up and running higher RPM's how much valve float or interference would you have? There is a reason for why Cummins has these valve set this way... (Yes. I know the shrug smiley is AWOL!) :banghead:

Really odd... The stock bulbs that came in my Dodge are over 9 years old... Made by Sylvania... Now all the after market bulbs I tried I've seen to have a live of 1-2 years...

Problem with Holley Blue and Black neither pump is designed for diesel fuel (from Holley's mouth). Then the other problem is that the pump has the same weak points as the stock carter lift pumps. So if you don't mine buying a Holley pump with 30 day warranty that you'll change about once a year... After going throught the lift pump battle myself and trying to find something that last more that 1 years I found AirDog... Since then mine have been running flawless for 4 years now. AirDog, Raptor, And Full FASS come with a lifetime warranty so if the pump should fail just replace it under warranty... At $200 a piece at the time and replacing them every 15K to 20K miles in just 2 years I spent $600 bucks on a fuel pumps. Then add the $125 for the big line kit... Now I'm wishing I would of just listen a long time ago and just bought a AirDog the first time and saved all the money...

Welcome to the forum...

It not good on any engine to run short trip to the point the coolant temp never reaches full operating temp. Over of a period of time the engine oil starts to breakdown from contaminates from fuel, moisture, etc. I know of a Ford Diesel local that "Had" the same live and found itsself parked in a back yard now because the owner ate the engine... Like Mom's 1996 Dodge Ram its got a 5.9L Mopar Magnum V8 engine. I use it alot in the yard... Well my yard is a whole 4 arces tops... So like going down and getting a load of firewood from the shed and bringing it back to the main house. Even if I idle it the whole time it barely even shows 140*F of coolant so every other trip I will phyiscal get out on the highway and drive till its at full time and then turn around and return home... I know this little truck sees very little travel being it gets fuel once a month... But the whole idea is to heat the oil up to get all the contaminates burned off and moitures out of the oil.