Mopar1973Man

Actually an open circuit is going to cause a high volt code being there is no ground. The +5V and sense at the ECM will see +5V and hi volt code is thrown. Now if the if its shorted to ground now the voltage goes low and now will trip the lo volt code. So an open circuit will make the gauge go hi in value, and shorted to ground will make the gauge value go down. This should help explain this... +5V & Sense -----> ECT Sensor <------ Return to ECM Ground.

Ah. Now I know what you are talking about now. I guess your pulling the yolk to get that ring off.

Another you could do is pull the entire engine harness and send to @Auto Computer Specialist they do harness repairs of this type.

that should cover the p0336 code.

So lets start with the code I know its not list here. The P0243 code is a wastegate solenoid issue. Either there is no +12V power or no control from the ECM on the ground side. Now I can say that this wiring diagram is not very helpful at all. The wire colors are wrong here too. The plug at the solenoid is Dark Blue (ground to ECM) then there is pink/yellow. Then tracing back from the solenoid I do have continuity from the pink/yellow to the C130 connector. At this point the wire swaps to red/orange color heading to the TIPM. Now that red/orange wire now there is two connectors in the TIPM that have this red/orange colored wire going to the module. One is constant hot +12V the other one is dead even key on. A friend informed me it might be powered with tach signal (engine running). I've thought of cutting in a new key hot power line to the c130 connector and going form there. I don't want to start chopping up wiring to make this work. The other problem is there is no continuity from the c130 to either red/orange in the TIPM. Now I'm stumped. Little info or help would be nice... ADDON: I finished my oil change and then fired up and checked the orange/yellow wire at the TIPM and there is no power present. Fuse is good. Power across the fuse as well. Even with the solenoid removed from the turbo and unplugged there is no code for the solenoid being missing. I figured it would pop the code fairly instantly. According to the 2006 Dodge FSM • When Monitored: When the ignition is on. • Set Condition: The ECM detects an open or short circuit in the Wastegate solenoid circuit.

@JAG1Sorry to say I can't use a stock air box too restrictive for Beast. I'm sure not going to dust a good engine with washable filters so BHAF is the solution. Filter in a wire mesh cage.

IR Thermometer could be had at Harbor Freight for cheap. https://www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html?_br_psugg_q=infrared+thermometer It's not like we are measuring temperature for exact. But these cheap temp guns do work and will temp roughly tell you how hot or cold something is.

Might pull the sensor off the back and use some silicone spray or WD-40 to displace the water.

Here we are January 01, 2022 Starting the new year.

I'm more of a manual guy. But... I'd say upgrade the cooler only if your trans temp was up to 200°F too often. Then I would up grade. Seriously my Dynamic 46RE built 1/2 ton Dodge ran seriously cool most times even hauling trailer. Proper built trans will run cooler. Also proper final ratio. Even that truck was running 215/85 R16. So that made it 3.6x:1 or so.

Blue Chips special X is too advanced. That's your hard start or possibly the key is crushed and timing is advanced. I've seen both cases causing hard start. Fuel pressure to high could cause hard starting. Fuel pressure should be 7 to 12 PSI. Should not be any higher during cranking. Try unplugging the FASS and see if it starts easy. Excessive pop pressure on injectors greater than 330 bar. Make it tough to start cold. For easy starts low fuel pressure and retarded timing is way easier to start.

Even AFe with the airbox is a mouse condo. BHAF is pretty good choice and I've not seen and had any problems.

Leave the hood open. Most mice and rats won't hang around typically.

Just enough to lube everything up. If you rev the engine it might squirt a bit more or fling it off the rockers.

+50 HP are custom made. So yes they are pop tested and flow matched. You'll also find the +50 Hp are typically a bit cheaper the RV275.

...VERY COLD TEMPERATURES EXPECTED OVER THE HOLIDAY WEEKEND... ESPECIALLY SATURDAY MORNING... Skies will clear and temperatures will become very cold late Friday night into Saturday morning. Low temperatures in the valleys are expected to be from around 5 above zero to 10 below zero, with mountains generally in the 5 below zero to 20 below zero range. Sunday will be not be as cold, but most locations will be in the 5 above to 5 below zero range in the morning. Fortunately, most winds will stay below 10 mph during the coldest periods. However, the Camas Prairie will have dangerous wind chills down to 35 below zero Saturday morning, with a significant risk of frostbite. Other areas will have lighter winds and will not be quite so cold, but even light winds can lead to frostbite at those temperatures.

Ummm... Well Beast is only 438k miles and Thor is only 238k miles. Must be thinking @dripley being he's been to the moon and back.

I prefer the A-pillar with ISSPro EV2 gauges because the EV2 are USB programmable and you can set the warning light to any values you want. Adjust needle movement being more accurate or more averaged and smooth. Quadzilla display I only look at it for tuning purposes so typically I don't have the display running. But the ISSPro gauge warning light make it super nice because you can tell what is wrong but level on the a-pillar. I though of adding a tweak and getting the relay option for the gauges and I could tap the cluster possibly and hook them in so when the warning lights popped it would set the light and chime the central timer. Now that would be super cool.

How do you know? Hmmm... Been watching?

22*F out this morning and snowing really fine powder. Then getting ready at about 10am to head to Lucile to work.

I'm running DAP's 150 HP (7 x 0.010) VCO Injectors popped to 320 bar. With these injectors, Quadzilla Adrenaline with my Economy Tune I broke my old high mark and topped out at 28.04 MPG. Just this last summer.

Do yourself the favor and opt for +50 HP injectors over the Bosch RV275's. At least you can get a custom built injector set that is flow matched and within a small margin for tolerance. Just really sucks to dump in more money for Bosch stock injectors that are 6 random injectors. Like another member here just got a bad batch of RV275's that popped at 220 to 260 bar. I would also suggest the Quadzilla over the Edge EZ. Way better control of timing and fuel parameters over the EZ that is just a dumb box tuner that can't really be adjusted to meet your needs of good economy and/or performance. Hua... Well I've been doing more mobile work lately running all over the local area handling broke down vehicles or trucks that didn't start. I'd love to hang that up and do more the web work than travel work being its barely 16*F right now and going down to near zero tonight. Sucks to start your morning fighting the ice and cold. Ugh...

All I can say is give DAP a call after the holidays and see with the gang there has to say.

The other way is to get your hands on a Smarty S-03 programmer and then flash one tune to the truck and then return to stock and your done. The high idle software is left on as a freeble. https://www.dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a As from DAP's site...