Mopar1973Man

That sucks. I would get some zinc and a few other vitamins and start treating it now.

For me it just a plastic snow shovel and carefully push the snow off the roof.

At least on my old 1996 it was a couple of wrenches and unscrew it. Might need extra fittings to couple the line back together.

First thing is to flush the system before pulling the old pump off. Make sure to get all the dark fluid out or any metal particles out. Then you can install the new pump. As for flushing and priming is the same thing. You want to jack up the front axle so the tires are just off the ground. This makes turning the steering wheel easier. Now remove the steering box return line from the power steering pump and cap the port on the reservoir. Route the return line to waste contain on the floor. Now turn from lock to lock slowly and it will naturally pump the fluid out of the system into the waste container. Keep adding fluid to the reservoir and keep going till the fluid clears up. Replace the pump at this point. Now with everything back in place EXCEPT the return line. Now do one more round to draw fluid through the pump and some what prime the system. Then return the return line back to its port on the reservoir and refill. Now continue the lock to lock till no more air is seen in the reservoir bubbling up. Once that is complete you should be able to start the truck without any issues and have power steering instantly.

After watch another video about compression ratio it more or less translates to better torque number being the crank throw is longer which gives compression ratio a boost but the biggest thing was since the crank arm is longer it will provide more torque on the downward stroke. 2nd Gen 24V SO engine with the lowest compression ratio at 16.3:1 vs any other generation which could be as high as 17.5 or so. Also keep in mind that big power most builders reduce the compression ratio to allow for my boost pressure. For us daily drivers there is going to be little difference between 16.3 to 17.0 ratios being just compression test will net roughly 400 to 450 PSI cranking the engine over. Then when you calculate 30 PSI of boost the cylinder pressures could be as high as 1,100 PSI. No matter how you look at it you blowing 30 PSI of boost in a cylinder squeeze it again to 16.3 or 17.0 ratio its still going to light off at the time injection is programmed on the Quadzilla. Pressure makes lots of heat.

So to explain that... If the RPM < 1200 then the ECM is in control completely. If the RPM > 1200 then the Quadzilla is control. Now when the fueling is dealt with the numbers your setting is ECM stock value times a percentage. This gives the ability to go below stock rate and set it based on a percentage. Now when the message of fueling is to be changed it will send the priority bit and then ignore all the ECM message then inject the new message with the changed fuel message. Same with timing as well. Octane is the ability to resist compression ignition. Too low of octane and pre-ignition knock could occur. Cetane is the ability to promote compression ignition. High cetane will ignite easier in the colder mornings, comes with a cost of lower BTU's. As stated from ASTM Labs... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!!

All relates to the what you trying to do. Idle and engine load has nothing to do with it. It more about like my 5 speed there is ZERO slip once the clutch is released. The only way to make it spool quickly is to retard the timing deeply and blow more fire and expanding gases out the manifold into the turbo to spool quickly. Now most automatics and the torque converter will allow quite a bit of slippage to get RPM's up quicker so these don't require as much retard time or amount of retard to get spooled up being the slippage is part of that factor. The only other would be a lower stall on the torque converter would require some more retard to spool. This is something people tend to forget is launching and then put 15 to 16 degrees in the 1,500 RPM slider and wonder why it bucks and shutters a bunch daily driving. 1,500 should be somewhere between 13 to 15 degrees of timing typically. Even when you go WOT there is the "Low PSI Timing Reduct" and the "Timing Reduct Scaling" this adds more retard for heavy throttle change. Then the "Max Load Timing Offset" which can retard up to 3 degree on light throttle change that pushes past the "Light Throttle Load Limit" each one has its place and time. Again when the timing is set right the EGT's and engine load should drop very low. Too much advancement will land you in "Negative Torque" where the piston is still traveling up to TDC and the fuel is ignited too early and now acting like a brake slowing the engine till it breaks over the TDC and then power comes out on the downwards stroke. Usually the excessive advance will show up in the oil temp being the cylinder walls have more flame front and the coolant jacket is heated more so the oil cooler doesn't cool as good. My oil temp is measure at the filter housing and typically 160*F compared to 195*F coolant.Too much retard you notice the engine is VERY quiet sounding there is no rattle at all. There should be a very light rattle during a cruise state but should be a bit quieter under load.

Typically because they were popped lower and then after the break-in period the pop pressure fell more so now the droplets are larger and going to need more timing to make up but the injector is already early because of low pop pressure. I've seen this with many injectors that are popped lower for flow rates and then typically the lifespan of the injector is shorted being it falls below 293 bar (Dodge FSM minimum pressure) rather quickly. Now if the injectors were re-popped back to at least 310 bar it would most likely clean it up again. Lower pop pressure provides the most fuel but at a large droplet size. Higher pop pressure provides less fuel but at a finer droplet size and burns cleaner.

Yes it's an option but it would be nice to verify error codes one more time and see what the author gets for TPS value. At a true idle it should show 0% TPS. Again if the current APPS is electronic IVS then it voltage required to set IVS state. Now a Timbos APPS is angle set IVS. As long as the wiper inside can reach the Idle Position contact the idle position and the idle software will be set.

7x0.0085 is typically 75 HP injectors. As for injectors you have to weigh in the pop pressure the injectors are set up too. Like myself I'm 320 bar which is +10 bar over stock. This is for atomization value but comes at a cost of needing to advance timing more. Now if your below 310 bar you need to retard some because the injectors are firing early. Size injector you need to start at 85% or so for canbus fuel and ramp up. Best to have 5 to 10 PSI of 100% stock power for cruising zone. When you ramp up to 150% start your wiretap at the same PSI of boost that way gain the power of both together. Bigger turbos need deeper retard to get launched and spooled. Stock turbos and auto trans can start out advanced. Like my NV4500 needs to start at 13° so it can spool up the HX35/40 Hybrid. Optimal timing should produce low EGTs. For example at 55 MPH my average is 450°F EGTs and 65 MPH is 550°F. Engine load at 65 MPH is below 20%. This gives me a high mark of 28.04 MPG. That is good efficiency. If you generating heat you not setup right. Good starting point you should see 19° of timing at 2k RPMs. Tires and gearing make huge impacts. Optimal final ratio should be closer to 3.73 after tires. For example 245/75 R16 tires 30.5 inch tall and 3.55 gear produces final ratio of 3.69:1. Lower ratio number than 3.55 is a huge problem. 4.10 is getting too low geared. Bigger the tire the lower the ratio number like 37 inch tires on 3.55 is 3.00:1 which is very bad ratio, creates lots of heat.

That is my thought is the APPS sensor is not setting the proper IVS (idle validation switch). Being that if idle was grounded it would ditch the APPS signal and use the 800 RPM idle software. Then when throttling is grounded then idle software is ditched and APPS value is used gence you higher than normal idle speed because it not setting the idle ground for IVS.

Even with the check valve on my old 1996 Dodge was still draining back on long periods of being parked. Yup it was a dynamic transmission with modified to pump in park.

Most likely all black wires. There will be 2 going to the sender. Then 2 will go to the pump. There is a blue clip inside the plug. Pull it out and then with a small screwdriver lightly lift the lock and each pin to remove the wires.

All that stays in the tank. Leave the stock sender all there. Just pull the 2 wires out the inside plug of the sender for the old in tank pump so its not running. Install a second draw straw in the tank but not in the sender basket. Reason why is you don't want the hot return fuel in the sender basket. I've been outside the sender basket since 2006 and never once had hot fuel. Fuel temp are typically <120*F unless a super hot day, and towing may I might reach the high 130*F. My last install I did a custom mount for the AirDog 150 pump where I drilled and tapped the frame and hung the pump between the cab mounts to guard the filters and pump from debris strike damage. This was done on a short box truck and this trick cannot be done with FASS it just too big to hide!

Most likely making negative torque. More or less have expanding gases in the cylinder before the piston makes it to the top. So part of the power is lost in that part of the stroke and then when the crank passes TDC then the expanding gases are pushing hard. EGT are higher than they should be... Also if you monitoring the oil temp you'll notice the engine oil temps will be higher being there is more flame front in contact with the cylinder walls longer so the coolant near the oil cooler get heat soaked and oil temps rise. 66 MPH = 2,000 RPM = 550*F EGT's = 162*F Oil Temp 55 MPH = 1,600 RPM = 450 EGT's = 158*F Oil Temp Anything that is generating heat is a loss of power... If you truly getting all the power consumed all your temperatures should be low. The only way I could reach 725 to 775*F is hauling my RV on flat ground or climbing a 7% grade typically. Already got to 28.04 MPG on this tune... 425 miles at a half a tank typically if I'm running light foot.

I'll get another photo in the daylight and see the damage to that tree. There might be another limb broke off by spring time. The next limb is leaning out over my power to the house and could break off. As for RVing I'm planning on getting it together by Early April and being ready to travel somewhere outside my typical Lewiston, ID to Boise, ID range. I want to see some other state than Idaho and meet up with some of the other members too.

Personal thoughts on this... Bad battery terminals could create a point of time hooking up the the jumper cables to the battery and then with the Quadzilla being wired directly to the battery could cause a surge effect of sorts. This is most likely why I don't have these issues I'm not directly hooked at the batteries for either ground or the power. Power I get from the PDC terminal at the alternator fuse then the ground I get off the body. So there is no way to surge anymore that typically is in the electrical system. Now as for my terminals I've still got my factory terminal yet and in super good condition. Just kept them covered in engine oil that all and never had corroded terminal of weak connections ever. There is nothing tied directly to either the positive or negative terminals on my truck except the W-T ground wire mod which now has a new ground for the ECM/VP44 and the alternator charge lead. No other accessory wiring is tied to the batteries. All accessories are wired at the PDC stud.

Going by memory... If I remember correctly the cable typically is ran on the front shoe and down to the ratchet arm. The adjuster can only go one way being if you install it backwards then the adjuster will add slack every time you hit the brakes. But I've not done drum brakes on a Dodge in a long time.

Flip out towing mirrors are out there too.

Possible if the parking brake cable doesn't have enough slack to drag the brakes but that would be the other way around tight at first then lighten up later.

The only thing I can think of is the cable is too short maybe and causing the auto-adjuster to pull the shoe too tight.

Be safe out there the roads are rough here this morning...

What's weird I've had my Quadzilla all these years and never thought to unhook the Quadzilla anytime I made the hundreds of jump start for other vehicles. The only Quadzilla failure which I don't think was a failure but the ground screw came lose and started running rough and misfired. Traded with DAP / Quadzilla Power and kept on going. Still to this day I've never unhooked my Quadzilla for jump starting. Is this because older version vs newer version? I don't know but no issues here...

Merry Christmas to you all... Hopefully there is something nice under the Christmas tree this year for all of you...