Mopar1973Man

Goes from the trans hump to the passenger wall. It is rather huge but as long as the dash is hung like shown in my pics the HVAC will slide out under the dah and you'll need to lift the dash ever so slightly in one spot but it comes right out. 2 stud in the cab and 4 stud in the firewall engine side.

Here you go...

I look at it this way as long as you make the 20's club your doing excellent... 16-17 MPG is normal... Below that you better break out the toolbox and find out what's wrong with your truck... These are empty numbers...

Answer is... With the clamps in position, tighten the clamps to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.)

That is always been a sore point to me... If someone is going to wire in a trailer lights or trailer brake do it right the first time... I see all kinds of scotch loc's and plugs and goofy crimp on connectors. If you can buy a weather tight plug (male and female) and put in your self that fine but don't hack up a good wiring with crimps... Now as for you method with shrink tube and soldering will do the best job over time...

MoparMom said... I'm still running up and down the stairs building fires in the wood stove... It not cute anymore...

Geez... I'm getting rather tired of the cold temp and even colder night temps it just to wet and cold for even going out camping... Check this out here is tonights low temps...

Geez Russ... I think you need to get a able body high school kid ot relative to stop by with a tube of clear silicone and pull the light up and give them a dab of silicone and snug them back down.

Well gang... As of 3:07pm yesterday we lost power to a tree that fell throught the power and phone lines. It remained out for over 14 hours. But also brought forward the fact I need to do some maintenance on my power plant. The batteries are nearly wiped out They would barely hold up for about 1-2 hours with just a few small appliances running. Then after that going out and fighting with the gasoline generator to get it started... :banghead: But all in all we had power till about 9pm and I shut down the genrator. The pelton wheel could hold a refridgerator and freeze for the night. So I need to look into new batteries for the system...

I'm getting there really quick...

If you going to do the stainless bottom make sure to let a shop do it... They are a real pain in the arse to do... I put mine on from all the rock chips from the road gravel has taken all the paint off.

Check the manifold for cracks too... Some have reported cracks on the bottom.

Well the dodge on the hood actualy goes on the tailgate... There is no decals on the hood. There is only a the RAM logo on the doors. Then the SLT badge behind the quad doors. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1146 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1145

Also if you just recharging a system... Don't buy freon with oil charge included. Buy the proper amount of oil charge (listed on the radiator support) and put that in the system first. Then charge the system with the proper amount of freon.

Wow! that truely sad to hear...

I just used a chunck of old re-bar and a BFH and smack the hell out of it... Then it spun in about 5 -10 hits...

Some comments in blue...

Just for my front bearing/hubs was $850... (shop done them - long story...)

Hmmm... Maybe you need to have a nice chat with CajFlynn... Hes one of our 24V record breakers... He's got 825K miles PLUS and running a VP44... Then myself I'm also got a VP44 pump heading for 118K miles on the pump 168K on the truck... As for the price on the drivetrain thats cheap really... (Engine, trans and transer case)... The biggest problem I see is the electronics and get things to work with it... Might be cheaper to do a P-pump conversion...

Actually you don't have to... You do need a 1 1/2" socket to get the hub nut off. Then a puller to pull the hub off the spindle. The the bearing is only bolted in... The bolts are behind the knuckle... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=872

Looks lot like my truck except mine is all together yet... I'm sure it will look awesome to have a new looking truck again...

Here you go... http://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&albumid=17275

Good luck on the TQ conv change...

ISX has got a point... 3rd Gens moved the IAT sensor to before the turbo... What actually matter is the air temp entering the manifold... Now that he said that the measured air temp on the 2nd gens would be +40*F from the outside air putting it roughly at 100-130*F in the manifold. This is right were I hit my high point in MPG (21-22 MPG)...No wonder my BHAF does so well... Now in the winter time I see temps as low as -20*F and that makes the intake temp about +30*F MPG falls greatly to about 15-16 MPG... So this puts the cold air intakes out the window... But would you believe it this same thing for MPG and IAT relationship also applies to the gasoline Mopar engines too??

Patience... Lots of it...