Mopar1973Man

Hang in there LiveOak tips and tricks will be coming... I'm getting itchy to do the job...

Already got the vacuum pump coimng... O-ring kit I can order but lower in priority... Sniffer... well I could use a dye charge and UV light which I already got...

I would start there... They allow upgrade as you go along... Like myself I was there for over 2 years and then just resently I made a upgrade in plan because of my heavy load of members. The enocomy plan allows up to 50 people on a one time. But the deluxe plan allows for 100 people on at one time...

Lucky.. Darn 2WD truck have all the luck... Try that with a 4WD and transfer case hanging off it... Polish it??? Are you nuts??? Nobody is going to see it...

Well gang... I just got the A/C Evaporator and the release tool for the A/C lines. I got the vacuum pump and freon maniold/gauges coimng too. I'm spending some good money so I become a a/C recharge center here in the valley since no one does here. But on with my project as soon as the rest of my tools get here I'll be on the road to starting the project.

Here is the site for the server stuff... http://www.wampserver.com/en/ download page. http://www.wampserver.com/en/download.php This will allow you to setup a full server on your own PC for testing purpose. so now you can install the VB x version and test and see if you can get the backup to work.

Waiting for reply from you...

Look like you already got a SB 13" flywheel if you compare it to mine... (Pilot bearing)

That how we all learn is by asking questions and learning from each other...

Like here is Idaho I'm been checking directly with fuel provider and found that on average the cloud point is 32*F for summer fuel. Funny part is our morning temp float right close to 29*F to 35*F yet. So as you drive you see a mild loss in fuel pressure. Now I've kept my stock filter housing and it does help in warming the fuel up in the tank. So in about 15 miles the fuel pressure starts to rise. Now theeletric heater runs till 60-70*F and shuts down. So after that the filter housing heats the fuel by heat soak from the block.

I remember long ago over on CF.com someone had produced there own exhaust brake but I've never seen anything about it again... I know exhausr brakes are spendy but the saving on brake part in just a few years makes it worth it... Like myself I've not changed my brake pad since I bought my truck brand new... 167K miles and still got pads yet... I figure my first brake pad change with be at 200K miles roughly...

My infromation is from the Dodge FSM book and it listed right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Listed under the "Self Erasing Of Error Codes" heading...

Actually its after 40 warm up cycles... So actually you should get those batteries cleaned up and charged. Then reset the codes and see what comes back... If the error codes are real they will return right away in about 5-10 minutes of run time. If not they will remain gone...

Don't feel bad mine is getting there over time... but I'm keeping a close eye on the PS fluid and making sure the color doesn't change and looking for metalic debris (None - good thing!) But due for a PS fluid change. As for the adjustment don't get carried away and over tighten the adjustment it will cause damage to the steering box.

Well you could check error codes yourself using the key trick... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

At this point I would correct the voltage problem first thing... Check over the alternator and charging stuff. Then I would clear the codes and see if any come back. The wild voltage up and down could of tripped the codes in the first place...

There is some adjustments that can be made on the steering box. Sector adjustment will typical remove that slack quick... Its the jam nut and allen bolt... Give me a bit to dig up the write up (or if some else can help)...

Typically most hook up to a regulated source like a air compressor and then soap the system down looking for bubbles. Or like the one in the picture load it with air and watch the pressure gauge for fall...Either way you end up soaping the system looking for bubbles. Oh yeah if you got a boost elbow you might take it out and put the stock elbow in. Adjustable or aftermarket elbows have a tiny pin hole in them so this will show a leak. So if you put the stock elbow back you can also test the wastegate for function.

The only thing I can say is becareful... I don't know if the rubber cap with swell outward and spit the hardware back at you as every stretches out.

Like Live Oak mentions... Keep it in the green...

Becareful... 10 PSI is lmit... Most of your restriction is the small plumbing. So if you now threw a big line kit against it and relocated the pump near the tank you could go lot farther with pressure... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm

Looks like this...

LiveOak hit it on the head... I would bend your fingers though for a Raptor at least...

I've found another lost account here for another member... From what I can see that only a few users so far were lost during a update along the way up through the version 4 process... Please if oyu account is miss or having login in problems PLEASE contact me and I'll try to straighten out this mess...

Closest AutoZone to me is 150 miles...