Mopar1973Man

Here you go... All the wiring for the A/C...

Nice...

Oh... Another trick... The plastic tubing... Remove the full length of it from end to end... Now flex the tubing and roll the flex down the length looking for splits. Don't kink it or fold it... just put a heavy bend in it and if the tube is split it will show up quick! On my Mom's 96 it split the tube but would randomily work and not. Well after flexing the tubing the split showed up so I replace the piece and the problem solved.

Ahhh... Like my stock Cummins rims... They are starting to turn black and white corroded around the edges from the loss of clear coat and the fact "Diesel" my dog is peeing on the tires don't help... So it might be just easier to find a set of use rims off a FleaBay...

Yeah I know the budget thing is really tough on people... But remember if you deal with the problems properly the cost of repairs won't bite you bad later.

Simple... My SG II and Garmin V are closer to right than hand calculation typically... For the reason my stock speedometer and odometer are off by exact 0.5 MPH so the stock odometer is typically about 20-25 miles faster compared to the Garmin or the ScanGauge II so the MPG numbers are about 0.2 to 0.5 lower on the SG II which is just about dead on if I use the mileage numbers from the SG II / Garmin to hand calculate. But if I use the stock speedometer the numbers are higher and alway have me re-calibration everything till I relized that 0.5 MPH offset is enough to foul all the calculations and remember if you calculating the SGII use the SG II number for figuring NOT the stock odometer! Watch around the 1:09 mark you see my calc for offset appear... This gets worse over time of travel... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq0XG5qRLsM

I would say the bead blasting and repaint them is the best option... Really going over board would be powder coating them... Then install the fresh rubber... Or new (or used) aftermarket rims and fresh rubber.

Well on the bright side the Hobbs switch is most likely beat up from the water hammer and flickering now. My first Cummins pressure switch did that and one day it just started peeing out the top of the pressure switch... Now as for getting a gauge on there is important to see what your run pressure and starting pressure is. Remember excessive pressure at start up time might cause issues... Then low pressure during run might of ripped the diaphram and made matter worse.

Make sense... Yeah it wasn't long ago when I remember seeing Walbro system floating around a bunch and the POOF!... But i do see the pump are still available its just the kits are not... so if it was me I would then use a Vulcan Big Line Kit and Walbro and mod the Big Line Kit out to work. About the only thing I can think of that not there is the regulator.

Vacuum motor is too slow to keep up with changes... The newer electronic cruise control is smoother...

Even his wife admits it live! So how is he a president of the US???

OMG...

Sorry to high jack... You reminded me of something that got lost...:banghead: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/984-Stickers/page2?highlight=sticker (Let me know and I'll see about getting them cut!)

Here is my suggestion... 1. Gauges (Get at least a fuel pressure gauge! But Pyrometer and Boost are important too) a. Fuel pressure gauge are typically about $40 bucks. 2. Get a fuel system (FASS, AirDog or Raptor - Don't buy a FASS DDRP!) a. Fuel pressure below 10 PSI is hard on VP44 b. Fuel pressure below 14 PSI is going to close the overflow valve and reduce cooling and lubing abilities. 3. I would check for error codes on the truck your going to need a code reader for sure. a. Depending on the error codes you might be looking for a pump really soon and might not... 4. The fact you had to do the relay mod for the lift pump proves the fact you diaphram is torn and the VP44 has seen seriously low to zero fuel pressure before. so there is damage done to the pump but how much I don't know yet.

I'm glad the write up worked for ya... Enjoy the new found power now!

I got a shot a trying the Smarty & edge Comp combo... Oh Boy the stock clutch hated but I sure loved the combo... I would of trashed my clutch much soon I'm glad i sent the Smarty back...

Yeah it could look like this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=836 After some plastic welding. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=837 Cover removed... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=841 Valve Solenoids removed... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=840 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=838

Or are you thinging of the pony motor? Where you started a gas engine to twist the diesel till it fired. Well look back on the old military 2 1/2 ton truck they ran on either gasoline or diesel fuel. Good ol 6 cylinder!

Naw... They were more worried about the Benz...:banghead: It seem like all the giant corps out there are getting caught with there fingers in the jar... (shame on you guys!)

98.5 does have a cranksensor too... Back by the starter... The starter will have to come out for removal...

Both ar very nice setups... I'm really thinking of a 4" exhaust system soon...

It was like the whole ethanol setup. Jumping up and down because it was a renewable resource, it was cleaner than petroluem fuels, etc. Then after a period of time the truth comes out... You need a specialized engine to run high amounts of ethanol, you need specialized fuel system parts to keep the ethanol from eatting the rubber and such, then the hidden secret still yet today the fact that ethanol fuel is WAY LOWER in BTU content. Ethanol is 87,000 BTUs where normal UNLEADED is 125,000 BTU's so it take more fuel to travel the same distance... So if the manufacture of this cleaner fuel doesn't get maybe the other side of less BTU's will... I relized something a while back to have a truck that meet EPA rules will typically get you about 16-17 MPG if left alone. But like my truck Im' squeezing 20-21 MPG and blowing a bit of smoke not as clean but use much less fuel to travel the same distance! Just depends on what side of the fence you want to be on...

You'll have to do some digging around for the Walbro setup... I know there use to be a few vendors selling them as kits and now I can't seem to find them. Also remember that AirDog and FASS both on the full systems have a lifetime warranty where walbro don't.

But funny...

Sound like you got lucky so far... Still you need to check error codes and get a fuel system installed. Oh yeah NO FASS DDRP they are worthless.